docc

LA is not quite in the neighborhood unless you're talking "Lower Alabama." Wish I could pop by . . . I'm sure I got lost on this somewhere, but wasn't there some Yankee Scura in this deal?

Josh, I thought your Sport already had different springs, no?

Not that this would actually create a noise like that, but it is worth checking the shock's eye bolt to the swing arm to be sure it is complete (not a half eye) and not cracked.

Here's the best we've got : TPS and throttle balance

Soon to be vintage? Like most of the riders . . .

Adjust the valves when "stone cold." Freshen your plugs up at the same time (the motor is lots easier to turn with them out). Use copper anti-seize on everything. Consider setting the TPS and balancing the throttle bodies for that complete freshly tuned effect.

Yeah, that part worries me; and has bit me more than once. I just thought a little clean and lube might be good medicine . . .

I replaced the relays at 13,500, but had been fussing with the problem for at least a couple thousand miles. Even a change at 12,000 probably wouldn't have caught it in time. My accessory jack is fused straight from the junction blocks for the battery without any relay.

The manual states a specification for vacuum difference between cylinders (7 mbar or 0.5 cm Hg) and for CO (0.3%). How could you adjust the CO "maximum unbalance" if it were out?

I did see one V11 do this until a good tune-up was performed. The owner swore it had already been done, but afterwards it cleared up his misfire.

13,500 miles on the FI and ECU GEI relays. I did find the uncovered fuel pump connection which may have contributed to the failure.

First thing check for a loose or leaking intake rubber. After that you might want to join the relay club . . .

I've got to take my starter off to try and get the neutral switch to work again. Can the starter and solenoid be cleaned with contact cleaner or is that a bad idea for the magnets I've heard are glued on? Should I leave it alone (54,000 miles) or is time for some preventive maintenence?

I thought I had wired the last additional relay to the Sport. Yet, the additional starter relay sounds good and it could be tucked up above the starter which is pretty close to the positive terminal. I've got to take the starter off to try and get my neutral switch working again; I'll look for a good mounting location. What size wire for the hot supply? Is 14 gauge enough or should I go with 12? The simplest solution may be a change interval on the relays. 12,000 miles?

Starter and fuel pump are different relays. What Phil said, try new relays. Dan Prunuske

I think I would like it better in Tenni green with some boxy panniers to give it a more rugged look. Are there any critical specifications available: weight, fuel capacity, price?

We might ought to leave the whole nut thing out of it . . .I think I have a picture of you looking for yours on some Alabama highway . . .

Hmm, I see how that comes out to 49 amps. Doesn't that seem like immense current to energize a solenoid? Seems like you could run the starter motor with that kind of current.

It is certainly worth new relays, especially for your first problem. The second sounds more like mine had been. While the FI and ECU relays fixed mine (for now) ) you may also want to pull the tank to clean, tighten and lubricate connectors. The connectors for the side stand switch could be particularly important for that kind of hiccup. Temporarily bypassing the sidestand switch is a way of seeing if the switch itself could be the culprit (some defeat it, but I rely on mine). A thorough contact clean of the run switch and sidestand switch is a quick and easy job . . .

I'm not at all sure how to convert ohms to amps, but 50 amps seems like a darn high draw for a solenoid (isn't that just a big relay?). After all, what does the starter motor itself draw.

Here is the Foale frame. I'm grateful to Dr. John, DeTomaso and Maserati for pulling a smooth Italian job getting this thing built where we commoners and roustabouts could enjoy it.

I had considered contact bounce as a possibility in the start of my hiccup. As you say, it then worsens the problem and develops to where it occurs without bounce. I don't understand how the Starter Relay NC 87A is under any higher demand than the Headlight Relay NO 87. They flow the same current in the running state. The biggest difference is that the Headlight Relay's coil stays energized while the Starter Relay's coil does not. Having added headlamp and horn relays the greatest current flowing through the factory relays is through the FI Relay for the fuel pump. What changed in the 2004 harness?

I'm feeling small and furry and have a test mule named 'Bella.' . . . I've put a Bosch in the ECU slot since feeling a couple light 'burps' when the Sport is cold and theorizing the ECU relay feeds the FI relay. Otherwise I plan a full connector clean with the tank off this winter. It occurs to me, if the Omrons are used as OEM, what is the application? Perhaps we could simply buy them from the car dealer as relays for the fog lamps of a BMW or the fridge in a Caddy limo?

This is where I got my last few. I believe it is a link to Dennis Kirk, no? They do have free shipping options even on single tires. (Much to my postman's chagrin as he rides HD and is always ribbing me about my "furrin' thang")

That's a good question for Dan. I mentioned the Omron to him as well as the suspect location of the Sport's fuel pump connections.