docc

It's pretty hard this time of year to sort anything on the bike. But i have run two tanks of fuel through the Sport now and think it's back to normal. When I cleaned the petcock screen it was packed with lots of sealing and milling debris. I can only assume that much of it dislodged from the cavities in the tank during the tip-over. I'm also assuming that some of the junk was interfering with the movement of the floating magnet limiting its proximity to the sensor. At any rate, cleaning out the petcock screen and rinsing the tank seemed to do the trick!!

I just looked at two 2003 Guzzis at Moto Guzzi -Nashville. I was impressed by the tidy set-up with the in-tank pump. There were two fuel lines into it , presumably for feed and return . There were no implements on the left side of the tank. Evidently, the pump, regulator and low fuel sender are in the right side uniit. Very clean.

The left is the overflow and the right is the vent. Neither should be capped ( ecpecially the vent!) When my carbon cannister set-up mysteriously appeared in a box on the shelf , I "y-ed" the vent and drain together and groomed the routing behind the starter to zip-tie to the engine oil return line on the back of the sump.

I like the Dunlop 220. They seem softer than the 020 Bridgestones and the older Dunlop 205. They turn in nicely, stable at high speed seem to handle weather well.

From what you've found , and some of Gio's work, it sounds like the lines themselves are highly susceptible to heat soak. Isn't there an unshielded fuel line between the injectors that lies pinched between the frame and gearbox? I recall some braided fabric sleeves used in racing applications wehich may be appropriate. I'll see if I can find a source from records I have on the Merkur (Sierra) I refitted. Secondly, every time I have the tank off I find some of the reflective heat shield needs reattaching. I've been using "Shoe Goo", a toluene based adhesive. I wonder if the tank itself is susceptible to 'hot spots' that would benefit from a little extra shielding. Finally, that pressure regulator is completely unshielded. And the line to it is rather loosely draped. I don't remember if Gio took heat readings on that side. ( You asked for some thoughts)

I wrestled with this when my gearbox came out. Finally concluded " it ain't broke" , so I didn't 'fix' it.

One simple approach is to add more air to the bypass. one full turn seems to really smooth out the lower revs and idle. Best of luck but don't think we're feeling sorry for you being off to Florida and all!

F1 ECU (5A) F2 Pump, Coils, Injectors (10A) F3 Battery re-charger (30A) F4 Ignition Key Switch (10A) F5 Hi/lo beams, Horn ,Brake light, Starter solenoid (15A) F6 Dipped lights ( tail light, instrument lights, 'city' light in headlamp) (5A) F7 Direction indicators (5A) F8 Fuel solenoid ('99-'01) (5A), available ( '02 and on) As such, if the F5 blows then the instrument lights shoulb be out. For the hi beam to go out and the lo beam to remain suggests either a bad bulb ( good news) ar a bad switch ( bad news). Although the contacts in the switch and connectors from there to the headlamp should be checked, cleaned, greased.

What's that?

I've been reading Code's book, Twist of the Wrist . It was assigned to me by fast -guy Goran and I'm trying to be a good student. Code declares that engine ( or 'compression') braking is a mistake. He cites several reasons, one of which is the increased wear on pistons and the crank. I admit, I love to row up and down the box and hear the song. Does it really eat up the motor? Doesit eat up the clutch?

Interesting about the 'lazy cylinder.' Also not all synchronization procedures are the same. A motor synched at idle will be out at speed. "Guzziology" recommends balancing off idle. The shop manual instructs to then balance the idle with the air bypass screws. Just an observation that the whole mess runs better with the air screws at a full turn ( instead of 1/2).

Connector #57 is under the relays. It may require dropping the fender liner to access. Check this thread for : connectors for the clutch switch

Another simple one to try: Tighten the bettery connections, they notoriuosly get loose. Also check the voltage with a digital meter. If it is not 12.7 v the battery may be up.

Valve job at 561 miles? Not likely, really . . . Of course here in lower middle Muletown we use the agricultural vehicle standard. If the motor blows too much smoke to see the sheriff's patrol behind you, it's time for a rebuild.

MGNA waranteed every thing I asked for in my three year warranty. Of course, there was that one thing I had to ask for eighty times . . .

The lower diagonal would be easy. But the upper mounts to two of the fasteners for the main frame's cross tube and side plate. The dimensions and angle would have to be exact. So, no, I don't think anyone near here has the talent to pull it off. Maybe if I had one of the actual subframes I could get it copied. Any donors?

Here it is : "PIASTRA COLLEG" 12 02 83 00 ($ 20 US)

After comparing the newer and older frame supports it makes me want to do this upgrade. Trouble is my older cases don't have the bosses for the forward mount. I'm considering whacking off the forward rods as the remaining cross bracing looks like it would really stabilize the swingarm pivot. Other trouble is the 275 USD. Probably should get springs first.

Hey, Russ! Did you get a ride in on the Guzzi when the weather broke?

I recently visited Andy York in Nashville. He had a set of bushes made up out of some techy polymer stuff. I think he's still in the testing stage to be sure how they'll act over some miles. Look here: reaction rod Because the stock bush is set in inner and outer metal shells the bush is captured when mounted, the rod becomes a torsion bar which must affect the free movement of the suspension. It certainly looks to me that allowing the thing to rotate in the rod would give unrestricted travel to the suspension.

scre, I hyperlinked your web address in the post by highlighting the address, clicking on the http:// button at the top of the page, then filling in the address in the pop-up window (you can cut and paste into this from another window). Then a last window pops up asking for you to name the link. In this case I just re-entererd the address but you could put, say : colored tires.

The sliding dogs ( or sliding sleeves ) are shown top and bottom arrows. They are engaged by the shift forks which push them along the shaft to change the gears. Middle arrow points to the ' cush drive' on the transmission shaft . Also under recall, the new one really tightens up the driveline lash.

I haven't heard of any warranty covering the spring breakage. In fact the 2002 and newer are not in the recall for the gearbox. I wonder how the easyern european wrench fixed your shifter?? You didn't have to rent an apartment there while the spring was shipped in?

The Napoleans are larger and heavier so I'm sure they damp the vibration more. But the little CRGs also cut the vibration significantly. Part of this may be simply removing the stalk mirrors. I wonder how much their additional moment arm amplifies the vibration.

A certified GM technician was admiring my Sport when it was all torn down. I showed him where I had grounded the added horn relays ( to the fuel pump mounts). He related a story as how GM had encountered some earthing problems and subsequently fitted the connections with star washers. Apparently this is all it took to get a sure bite into the block or frame.