docc

I can't believe how difficult this has been to grease the front U-joint! I don't think I've ever actually got the coupler to join with the zerk (55,000 miles). I know it finally did this time (pulled the shock bolt to lower the swingarm) since it was so hard to get the bugger off. After knocking a knarly chunk of skin off me finger (ya know yer bleedin' when you can see it through the nitrile gloves), I believe the front U-joint has a good dose of that Redline greeze. Off to the South'n Spine Raid in the morning. I wish you could all be there. Ride well, and, again, thanks for all the help, docc

Right , then: Andy, I'll call you in the morning; I know you need your rest to blow the rest of us right off the road with your impeccable technique. When I grow up, I'm gonna ride just like you! We're (I'm) gonna miss you at the Spine Raid. If any more hot babes get hauled off in a patrol car, you'll be sorry you missed it! Apparently, the intake clamps had loosened up enough to create an air leak (TEN POINTS AND THE CHAMPIONSHIP TO GREG FIELD!!) While putzing around, wrapping the intakes with electrical tape, I not only vapor locked the fuel feed , but didn't get the clamps tight enough. After cooling everything off and retightening the clamps cold, and hot, the *pop* is gone and I can crack the throttle without stutter. I think we should add a note to the pinned tune-up thread to tighten the intake clamps. I forgot all about them!

Moving the relays may be a good way to see if it makes an immediate difference. Also, with the new battery, go back now and retighten the terminals.

The heat is no doubt resistance related. Also, when I was melting the fuse in my main block, one of you suggested that once the terminals have heated up like that, they will probably never stay crimped well. I believe that is true, sop I must assume my new, outboard fuse holder is munted now. I'm using an infrared temp reader to assess the ranges and location of the heat. I'll try to check a few other fuses at the South'n Spine Raid this weekend.

Planning on leaving the Cracker Barrel 0900. I'm hoping to get there around 0730, have breakfast, laugh, plan and drink copious amounts of coffee. I rode the 'stich though some light rain yesterday for about fifty miles. My left pant leg had an embarrassing looking testament to my continence. I guess I should seal the zipper tapes and spray it with silicone water repellent. A wet crotch and stumbly idle made me a pretty unhappy camper last night.

I really think it vapor locked while I was putzing around with it in the garage. I'm hopeful that the clamps for the intakes were loose and it's now running perfectly again. I'll try it this afternoon. I agree with Raz, changing the holder should have made no difference. And, in reality, it may not have. It was simply the last thing I changed before the problem showed up. I she runs clean, Ill change the holder back to the brass and see what happens . . . I sure appreciate all the help and replies! You guys rock!

The fuel filter was replaced last June, (5650 miles). The valves were set 0.006/0.008 3100 miles ago. It certainly may have lean spots (especially in the midrange), but based on the sooty pipes, plug color and watery eyes of following riders, she's always seemed to run a bit on the fat side. After spraying the intakes with solvent (thinking the idle may have increased slightly), I wrapped the rubber intakes with electrical tape. I couldn't move the throttle bodies back far enough to get them off (I have an extra) due to the middle frame brace I added to the Red Frame (maybe that's why they quit using them!). Upon restarting the Sport wouldn't keep running at all!! Very frustrating. I theorized I'd let it heat sink from running it too much without moving or using a fan. I cooled the pump and intake line and it started and ran. I tightened the intake clamps further. It may be that the clamps had simply loosened over time and needed to be snugged up. I seem to recall Ratchet mentioning this before. I won't know until tomorrow when I can get it out on the road and see how it acts. And, yes, if you touch the cylinder with your fingers it gives you a second degree burn.

Good advice. Certainly, the relays made no difference swapping them around. I went back to the plastic sensor holder and there *seemed* to be an immediate improvement. I'll try to put some miles on it tomorrow to be sure. I 'll spray the intakes and look for a change, but it's rather intermittent compared to what I experienced when the rubber intake split . . .

The Sport's nasty hiccup has returned. This occurred right after I changed the oil temperature sensor holder and the idle dropped about 300 rpm. I have reset the TPS, balanced the throttle bodies and am within 3000 miles of my last (006/008 ) valve adjustment. I swapped the Bosch relays back into the FI and ECU slots one at a time, added Techron fuel system cleaner, tweaked the idle up a little higher: no good: still hiccups! It doesn't want to idle where I put it (effectively 1100 rpm; indicated 1400 on my tach); it drizzles down to an indicated 1050 ( an actual 850). I can reproduce the hiccup (like it fails to fire one cylinder, or drops the ignition signal) by cracking the throttle ever so slightly like you would do to slip the clutch starting off slowly. Leaving for the South'n Spine Raid in two days, this does not bode well. The basics: 2000 V11 Sport Telaio Rosso, 55,000 miles, Guzzi cf (Mistral) cannisters, K&N in the stock box, numerous crimps-splices-hard wires-additional relays-and-fuseholders. What is your edict, oh Man-Behind-the-Curtain?

That's what I did: a hard wired fuse holder outside the fuse block. Yet, it's still obviously very hot. Not sure what to do next . . .

5 amp is the correct fuse for the ECU in position one. I seem to recall some fellows having trouble with this fuse. While using a bigger fuse may be a handy road-expedient way to limp home, as a long term solution it just makes it harder to get the smoke back in the wires . . .

My set-up doesn't get wobbly until half the single malt is gone . . .

That's the Fuel Injection relay that provides power to the injectors, coils and the fuel pump. I also had the GEI fail in that position and recently went to the OMRON. I never did have any Bosch trouble , but replaced them 'for good measure.'

Well, the 30 amp fuse in the external holder burned off its contacts without blowing the fuse. I found this when the battery light came on. Since then I have removed the rubber cap from the fuse holder and relocated it to a less congested location. Still, the fuse runs 150-160 degrees F while the other electrical components (fuses and relays) do not exceed 98. I'm thinking of going to a full size fuse as is used in the power distribution consoles of automobiles.

Ratchet's advice is golden. , oh , yes, and also . Also, beware of front tire wear. I just replaced a Pirelli Diablo Strada after about 4600 miles. I had to start turning up the steering damper as the wear got more advanced. How many miles on that front tire?

Yah . . .right up to the point we leave Vonore for the NC loop . . .

All right, Joe: bringing an entourage! I think our route from the west is a little longer. Still, we should roll in before 5pm. Of course we lose an hour coming from here plus we'll be on "Guzzi time."

Hey, I learned quite a lot last year! I've even practiced looking in my mirrors once in a while.

Right now it looks like three silver Guzzis leaving here Friday with a Ducati in tow (if I can keep him in sight). With you and your former Ballabio (JoeGuzzi), that should make for the quiet, tasteful un-event we've come to expect. And with the venue changed from last year, it should take the cops that much longer to find our parking lot hangout. Maybe not 'til Saturday night.

Friday morning looks like side-stands up at 0900 at the Cracker Barrel I65, exit 46. We'll go some 220 miles over the Cumberland Plateau to the hotel at Vonore , near Knoxville. Let me know if you are coming in Thursday night so some South'n hospitality can be arranged. Every day my Sport gets hungrier for the road. Today I thought she would siphon off all the air in middle Tennessee just to swallow up the road ahead . . .

You guys remind me of my kids. I suspect you've been in the liquor cabinet while Jaap was away . . .

Traxxion Dynamics supplied some very nice aluminum spacers with my springs all cut nicely and beveled internally. The stuff must be available out there.

Hear, hear! Tho' Vonore would be a great place for a wedding and reception. We can move the bikes back a little so there's room in the parking lot. I'm sure she'll understand . . .

Thanks for the reminder. I've actually used both methods over the years with more years having the right screw defeated. At this point I've been using the left screw as 'primary', but turning the right screw in just to make a stop. It's more than likely probably redundant. I always check the mercury sticks at both idle and rpm.

Theorizing that I had already set the TPS for a given rpm, I simply turned the throttle screws in to bump the idle up. Next tune-up interval I'll go through the whole process again. Perhaps by next week I'll have some fuel economy data while I chase the heat source in my wiring harness . . .