docc

Fortunately, Goran, I'll always be well behind you on the roadways so my ugly bike won't distract you. Wait up for me at the cafe.

Another view:

Yes, the CRGs can be fitted to the Sport. You can either purchase their universal mount which replaces the bar end weight ( be sure to add weight up inside the clip-on if you go this way , to damp vibration) or the stock bar end weights can be machined to take the mirrors ( as shown). Note that beginning in 2002 the stock barend weights rotate in the clip-on and will NOT hold the mirror in place. Also realize the CRG are like the wide angle back up mirrors attached to large truck mirrors. The Napoleans are much better for actually seeing anything.

Pete, To ground the R/R, can you just run a ground to the case of the R/R? And the instrument binacle, where to attach the ground to it? Wire size for these ? 14 guage? 16? Do you think the stock ground cable is just too small? Or that a second one is advisable? I counted 23 points of earth on the wire diagram, yet the only earths on the bike i can find are the battery cable and the terminal stack on the neg terminal. Could be better . . .

And it's worth repeating that the life expectancy of the rear pads is 6000-10000 miles even if you don't use the rear brake heavily. Put some freeplay in the lever, clean the pistons and check the pads frequently!

The clear nylon vent tubes that come with new batteries work great. They're a little short at times such that the jar needs to sit on a paint can or case of oil to get it up off the ground. I also learned to use a clip or clothes pin to secure the tube to the jar to keep it from flipping loose and spitting adrop of brake fluid on something susceptible.

KB, which are you running?

OK, dummy me , but are there different "Diablos?" Like different compounds?

MM, coat hanger would be lighter than that heavy stainless steel crap Guzzi uses. Just be certain to drink heavy when threading up the nipples.

I once spent a couple years refitting a Merkur XR4Ti which had an abysmmal reputation for electrics. I encountered some valuable advice from some euros who had fitted Sierras for competition. Their basic assertion was that components fail rarely while connections are , by far, the most likely culprits. I found this wisdom invaluable with the'Merkur' (Sierra) and also a 1975 Gold Wing which came with the admonition of the seller, " What makes you think the bike has an electrical problem??"

Ah -HAH! !! The electrical commonality is the ground. With an appropriate (alright : liberal) dose of cognac I've spent the night ( whadya say? slept with) Carl's wiring diagram and seen the light! Further , I found all my junction connections had loosened as well as the battery connectors. On the wiring diagram there are 23 (!) grounding points. Physically , I can only find the ground strap to the gearcase and the stack of terminals on the battery. Again, the terminal stack on my battery loosened and needed snugging . Be sure your battery connections are all clean and tight. And the ground strap to the gear box as well!

Yeah, I only needed that stickier tire for about a nanosecond back in September. In November a friend went down on a bike he rides rather rarely. The verdiict: the funky old Metzler had set around til it was rather hard as a toenail. Time for an oil change and tires (again).

The circuits for the two lights don't mix. The blinkingout could be caused by faulty connectors alongside the front of the spine. It's worth separating them , contact cleaner and dielectric grease. As K'Dave says, the switch could be bad ( always park in gear). His suggestion to ground the switch is a good one. The relay is the center one. It, too could give you the run failure. But not the blinking out thing. That sounds like a separate condition. Best of luck and let us know!

Spooning tires on those soft alloy rims is a formula for lots of &%$@#* Surely you can find a shop who'll mount and balance your tires for $30-35. You can easily take the wheels off and bring those in so they don't have to disassemble your bike ( and you don't have to wrry about their technique). It's cake money for a guy with the machine as you'll probably be back at $60-70 a pop every year.

It's easy to lower the battery about 1/2" ( 12 mm ) by moving the carrier under the frame it's mounted to. It only requires grinding off the forward corners of the carrier basket.

I must agree on both counts. remember , thes ebikes have a substantial rear weight bias and any technique to reliably get the front to stick is good. Good reading to sharpen the technique: Total Control, Lee Parks

Ok, once again, THE reason for the low side is I went in to a 90 degree corner too hot to find out too late it was a 180 degree uphill, decreasing radius with a camber change , a pavement variation and a sedan in the oncoming lane. The lesson for me: ALWAYS see your exit before you commit. BUT, I've had the Sport over that far on other tires and still had grip. So, I'm seeking all the factors that will give me more certain stick at the front. You're teling me there are no Dunlop 220's in 160/70?

The consensus has always been 160/60 which I followed. But after the low side I'm determined to shift more weight to the front. . next time 'round I'll go with the 160/70.

Yeah, and golf balls have a smooth complexion. MJ, check into some deeper cylinder head guards. They're available from several sources including Joe Kenny. They do a nice job of protecting the heads in a rub ( gon't ask me how I know). just do a search for cylinder head guards on this forum. Looks like the Billabio ranks are growing. I guess we'll all have to clean up our act.

You guys aren't giving me any real good news. Something like, " Oh, yes, you can rebuild the sending unit with a toothpick without removing it from the tank." No luck, heh? The screen-tube on the stock petcock is white and , maybe, 4mm diameter. The black one on the manual petcock is more like 6 or even 7 mm. It was really a 'no-go' fit. I'll look again when the tank comes off next time as I'll be interested to see how much gunk has built up around it next time or that was all debris from Mandello. What could go wrong with a float-reed switch? Dirty contacts? Bent reed?

Now, Al, you know tires and oil don't mix well.

My Sport has never vapor locked . But I thought it good to take some simple precautions. Not to the extent Gio did but stilltrying to prevent trouble, I slid the fuel pump up in the bracket 15mm ( 5/8 ") and rotated the petcock to be sure the fuel line misses the head fins. Does everyone have a rubber coated pump and steel braid over the fuel line?

My low fuel light is not helping me out. Even after I drained the tank, then tipped it up and finally poured gas out the petcock hole. The light would still not come on. I can connect across the connector and the light burns brightly. Is the thing in the tank a potentiometer? Some kind of bimetel thing? What? BTW, when I refilled the tank after literally turning on end it would still only take 5.3 USG (specification is 5.8 USG). It also became amazing how much gas was trapped in the right side and in the two forward panniers. Also, I found a ton of crap stuck in the petcock screen. Perhaps from when it fell over, every scrap of junk dislodged to stick in the pick-up. I'm glad I cleaned it and perhaps it will give me a little more range. I intended to switch to the manual petcock but the one I have ( thanks to T.X.) has a pick up screen too large of diameter to fit in the hole. Any ideas?

'dk' These grips are indeed much more comfortable then the stock 'hammer handles' while maintaining a good sense of control.

I've never seen any slide right off but I have seen them migrate out enough to rub on the bar ends or bar-end mirrors causing the throttle to stick open or return very slowly.