docc

Gio, No question you are out of synch if the cylinders vary over 0.5 cm Hg. It is best to bring the cylinders into synch 'off idle' and see that that they remain so as rpm rises. This is dine eith the idle air bypass screws closed. It is recommended to add a 'jam nut' to the thumb wheel to keep the linkage from changing. Being certain the TPS is correct, then set idle at 1050+/- 50 and back out the idle screws 1/2 turn. Frankly, I find the motor to idle more reliably at 3/4 turn and 1100+/-50rpm. Gio, I could not understand your TPS measurement. I have seen millivolts (525 mV) and degrees opening (3.6 degrees). I am thinking the 'vent tubes' Jason mentions are the hoses for the US spec vapor cannisters.

I found my dealer's extent of tuning went something like, " it starts, it runs, don't touch it." A little extra time with the synchronizing has worked wonders. Those electronic synchronizers ( I use mercury) are probably worth their weight. Fettling the TPS and idle settings will bring you ever closer to that Zen state of Guzzi idle. Learning to do it yourself is easy and very satisfying.

So, now that we know Lindeman has the experience to rework our marzocchis reliably, who can rework this Sachs unit? Tell me it's not a throw away! At 160 pounds the rear is not too bad (bad, but not TOO bad ) Until I loaded the Tekno bags for the mountains. The racks carry them BEHIND the axle and really lift the front. "Boing" is not a performance term!

Turning the key on and off a few times should purge the fuel delivery system without having to run the bike. Also, Gio, is the tank pulling a vacuum? Check this by being sure the cap will open without suction.

I figured extra fittings would translate to extra places to leak. At that pressure the stuff could atomize through a small leak and form an external combustion engine between your knees! David, did you still have to lengthen the fuel line for the IsuZu filter? If so, how much, just an inch?

Just returned from the local parts haus,sitting on a case of Pennzoil reding the Prolator application charts. I gotta getta life! The welded filter is, as you say, for IsuZu. All '01 and '02 as well as Trooper '92 to '02. It is a very stout looking device , about an inch shorter than the Weber but longer than the Nissan application which is crimped onto a plastic end. The welded filter appeals to me as I have observed any number of vibration related failures on the Sport. I'd rather not see one with fuel pressure behind it! At $7US I think I can afford to change it every 6000 miles. With the filter piggy-backed to the frame the straight connectios look to be the way to go.

Interesting. I've just played this same filter game. After finding the threaded connectors were not for the V11LM/S I fitted the Nissan application and began to research. I found extremely helpful technical assistance from a fellow (motorcyclist) at Pureoil (Purolator filters). He was very patient with my series of e-mails and provided me with dimensioned diagrams and the following technical specifications: The filters do all, generally, filter 7-11 microns (Guzzi calls for 10 microns) and are tested at 4 bar (58 psi). Guzzi FI runs 3 bar +/- 0.2 (41 - 46 psi). So, filtration and pressure should be covered. This brings us to the issues of surface area and flow rate. The "Nissan" filter ( Purolator F43178) has 630cm2 surface area and flows 24 gallons per hour (the OEM Weber has 1200 cm2 and probably flows more like 45 gph). Remember that the closed loop FI flows unused fuel back to the tank through the pressure adjuster on the right side of the tank so that the majority of fuel flowed is not injected but returned. If you fit the "Nissan" filter it is much shorter and requires a longer fuel line from the pump. In searching for a longer filter for increased flow and surface area I found the following alternatives (again, Purolator numbers): F54718 used on Dodge Dakota V6/V8 is longer and has a bracket to be removed. More expensive due to the bracket ($11US) F67221 is LAZER welded to hold 300 psi, flows 45 gph and has 580 cm2 surface area. It is 5 3/4 inches long and should be the closest in overall dimension to the Weber. I'm not sure what its application is but I will check and post back. (Around $8 compared to the Weber from Guzzi at $33US). The F67221 is a better choice than the"Nissan" (F43178) due to its strength and dimension (may still require a longer fuel line). They'll probably both work just fine. Realize that less surface area means shorter service interval. Guzzi says 12000miles so a 6000 mile interval is extremely conservative for the smaller filter. If you made it this far on this post, congatulations, you are now a 'certifiable' techno-head!

The ongoing saga of the "11 speed" Guzzi box: returning from an agressive 640 mile ride I must find a dealer to inspect the function of the gearbox. So many times the box 'passes ' a gear upshifting. Especially in the higher RPM when trying to keep acceleration. Now. on this ride, I discover the same malady downshifting. Very dangerous approaching a decreasing radius switchback in the mountains with other riders behind to downshift out of gear not knowing what gear the box will engage once coaxed into any availabe cog. I have tried all techniques of preloading, aggressive shifting, linkage adjustments, pawl engagment adjustment, oil change, moly additive, clutch service, RPM matching. I say it 'passes' a gear because I have found it to engage the next gear( down or up ) by going 'back' for it. Forcing the the shift further 'skips' a gear. Something is allowing the mechanism to 'overtravel' and miss the next gear in the sequence. This is a hard concept to express in words. Try this: if your box hits false neutral, shift back the opposite way and see if it engages the gear you were intending. A couple of questions: first, is there any possibillity the return spring is causing this? Second, have the part numbers for the return spring changed over the four year production of the 6-speed gearbox? Your help is ever appreciated. I must do something to solve this as the failure to shift reliably threatened the safety of myself and other riders.

After this weekend ride my BT 020 front will be ready for the ashcan. What do you guys think of running this new Michelin ST with the 160/60 BT 020 rear?

I'm running 020's front and rear. What's the advantage of the 010 up front?

I made a few posts on ST.N. Face it, if you want to talk Guzzi you're in the right place right here. Al won't even talk to me over there. And you know how he "chats" . . . Seriously, I did get some good feedback on current road conditions in the North Carolina and Georgia mountains where I'm taking the sport in a few days. So, thanks , Al!

With my sport's tps set to spec the bike runs a bit rich and behaves at idle as you describe.(Worse when hot in hot weather). At 23,000 miles I found that it was much more stable idling with the air bypass at 1 full turn. I'm trying 3/4 turn now to see how it will behave.

'Zat make it a 'hand' stand?

Apparently, the early spine frames had the stand mounted even FURTHER forward. It was moved back on the 1100i.

In Greg Field's book"Moto Guzzi Big Twins" John Wittner talks about getting the "polar moment of inertia" of the motor aligned with that of the bike's polar moment in a lean. On the race bikes he acheived this through very high spring rates untenable for the street. The real advantage and impetus for the six-speed was to lower the output shaft so the motor could be rotated down to better align the polar moments. Adding the sixth cog was probably more for marketing IMO. While Wittner is no engineer either, he had the chance to work this out on the track then join the design team at MG to develop and refine what we're riding. I, for one, am eternally grateful. docc feeling all in the groove with my polar moments all aligned

Honestly, I've only touched down a few times. I'm of the opinion that touching down hard parts is an indication you've screwed up and blown your entry speed or line. I still can't see any other way that bolt could have bent. Haven't touched anything down since this last suspension revision. Headed to the north Georgia mountains next weekend and may find the limits there . . . There's this road called "War Woman Road" . . .

I got my aluminum cup wrench from my Guzzi dealer to the tune of 50 or 60 dollars. It really is a nicely machined piece. But when it arrived it lacks the hex drive to remove the cover. I found that the axle nut can be used to remove the cover.

Many of us have learned the side stand is first to ground in deep lefthanders. It has a springy, forgiving zing much like a spring loaded foot peg without the vibration to the boot. I found the stock LaFranconi to ground in right handers but haven't touched anything down on the right since changing to the round Mitsrals. Going over the bike carefully for a trip to the mountains I found a bent bolt that activates the side stand switch. Apparently it touched down in deep left cornering. Failing to activate the switch, the system thinks the stand is always up. Not a good thing if the bugger is down waiting to trip you up in that first lefthander. So, give it a look and be sure your side stand switch is telling the truth

Absotively, posilutely, cannot go wrong.

Dave, Glad to see you made it over here! These folks really know their sports and LeMans. When you bring that bike home you are likely to be back on here. Sorting, fettling as well as hobnobbing ,cohorting and otherwise hanging out with the enlightened. Ride well, docc

I seem to have found another simple source for shift problems on the sport. During routine maintenence I disassembled the clutch lever and found the pivot pin all grunged up and even gauled. I polished it out with 400 grit paper and regeased it all with BelRay waterproof grease. The pull is MUCH smoother and lighter. I can imagine the lever not fully releasing from a condtion like this contributing to the kind of 'jumping into gear' symptoms as Bruce has described. At least on the sport the pivot is well out in the weather and deserves a good cleaning and lubrication. (watch out for the tiny button that activates the microswitch as it likes to fall out and roll away to a far corner of the garage.)

Just got my V11 Sport Official Factory Manual. It states the CO to be 3.5 - 4.5 which covers your dealer's advice. I see I am running my TPS a little rich and the air bypass out to a full turn. Certainly not 'by the book' but the plug color is good , bike runs great and 34-38mpg. Lots of disagreement as to the procedure for setting the TPS. Just what is the relationship between 'degrees of opening' and 'millivolts?' (BTW, my dealer refused to check the CO as the taps are prone to stripping the header. Makes me wonder where in the world it's set and how to have it checked.)

Moto Guzzi? ? Dry clutch is a good clutch!

I get it ,Al. That makes sense since in normal operation the pump will stop whirring when the pressure comes up. So, Wanie, listen for the pump because the relays will often work again after sitting for a little while. Much luck and good riding, docc

Just finished wiring in a pair of the Siemen's relays for the Fiamms. Mounted the relays in tandem along the right side of the frame roouting the stockhorn wires carefully over to them. Wired 14 guage from the battery trough a fuse holder with a cap on it. Use heat shrink and zip ties all along the existing wiring harness. Made up two separate harnesses with a ground (from the right side fuel pump bolts) and the hot from each relay down to the horns (again, heatshrink , zip ties and dielectric grease). Now if one relay fritzes I have a redundant system. That and the 14 guage wire should be a satisfying overkill worthy of being on a Guzzi. Currently using 5 amp fuse. may go up to 7.5 amps if necessary. Biggest drawback to this install method was increased cost: wire, connectors, solder, heat shrink, fuse holder, fuses, zip ties , dielectric grease probably added $25- $30 to my $25 horns. But, hey, these things work GREAT and my switch is safe (saved by Carl!). ps: no surprise the 5 amp fuse wasn't up to the task, gone after 4 honks. Now running a 7.5 amp with several good sustained blows including one trying to convince a chasing dog that I was a one ton truck. I want the minimum fuse size and will post back if I have to move up to a 10amp. Edit ( 12-21-2003); The 7.5 amp fuse carries both of the Fiamms under extensive use. Changed the Seimans relays for Bosch.