docc

Ratch, I've lost track. Did you ever actually change your, I mean 'yer', tensioner and recheck the scatter?

Jaap is referring to the intake boot between the throttle boby and the intake to the head. Sometimes they just come loose with no crack or split. New plugs and TPS setting are a crucial part of the tune-up. Check your TPS at an idle of 1100 remembering that the tach probably reads fast. If it indicates '1000' then it's actually idling at 700. An indication of 1300-1400 will get your TPS, and the idle, set 'where the music is.'

That is shocking! My heart goes out to those folks . . .

I believe the engine is no different, but the sitting position will be much friendlier on the later Sport and the suspension should make a noticable improvement. We are waiting for you ride reports!

GuzziMoto makes a good point about the valve adjustment. This is step one in the tune-up. 0.006/0.008 is good medicine; especially in the hot weather. With your DMM set to the 2 vDC range, you are looking for a closed throttle reading of 0.150 +/- 15. After 10 tune-ups, I've found my Sport runs better at 0.165 (165 mV);especially in the hot weather.

Greg, very clean! The photo must show the fly screen rotated forward? Vive Coppa Seattalia!

As long as there is no play in the bushings for the torque connecting arm above the bevel box.

Mine had that same appearance. It looks to be balled up dirty grease since the rubber was unmarred on the inside.

That's good advice from Noggie. My tach reads 300 rpm high so I have to set idle at an indicated 1300 to get a tick over of 1000. Setting to an indicated 1100 could make your Guzzi struggle to stay alive at 800 rpm.

The tach is electric and triggered by the ECU. It is common to get a sketchy ground inside the instrument. Do a search as calisson had posted a handy fix. With the other lights intermittent as well I would not rule out some relationship. The terminal stacks on the battery should be checked for tightness (easy) and the connectors along the frame toward the front of the tank (less easy) pulled,cleaned and lubed.

True, my Sport needed a regulator about the same time the fuse showed up melted, but that was obvious since the running voltage would not exceed the battery voltage. As a guideline the battery voltage should be 12.7-12.8 vDC while the running (charging) voltage ought to be 13.5-14.5 vDC. Huub, have you had the chance for a voltage check?

Checking voltages is a good idea, but it is the connections in the fuse block that melts the 30 amp fuse. Here is the thread that shows the discussion, the pics, and the fix: Blowing Fuses Keep the smoke in the wires!

I can confirm Ratchet's Purolator and Wix numbers. These are welded filters, slightly shorter than the Weber, for the Isuzu Trooper.

A-HA! Ya see? Now if Brembo's engineers would write me back on the bolt specs. Is it true all of Europe is on Holiday the month of August? I suppose all the engineers are off doing what they do:

I've learned something already. I thought 'peon' was something illegal to do on Mexican roadsides and New Orleans doorways.

I repaired my side covers and starter cover by either epoxying fiber board or using fiberglass an the inside of the part. Low tech but effective, I suppose. Is it my imagination or is urethane starting to creep into threads?

Ooh, I've been hoping Rockette Science would come up sooner or later . . .

How is it we can figure this out , but not be able to determine the actual specification of the bolts holding the rotor to the wheel??

Martin, That is great news! Very likely you had a connector not connecting well. And not unlikely it was a combination of fettling that gave your 'cure.' It would have been very frustrating to try them one at a time! Of course, it could have been the chanting. Sometimes Italian creatures do things just to get you to think about them.

I'm thinking the forces pushing the caliper apart are hydraulic, perhaps aided by heat, but the forces on the mounting bolts for both the caliper and the rotor are a function of speed, mass and braking force perhaps multiplied by the torque moments separating the fastening point from the point of rotation and the point of traction. Lot's more force on the mounting than simply holding the caliper together.

Recall that there is also a spring washer stack inside the transmission referred to as a cush drive. I can't see how the clutch springs would add, er, uh, lash-or-whatever unless the clutch is slipping. Certainly the softer the rubbers in the wheel hub, the more 'give.' After all, that's the idea isn't it? To create more controlled 'give' taking force away from more expensive, hard to replace components? now, I haven't looked up 'give' in Wikepedia or anything; it just seems to have the right feel for that-phenomenon-which-is-not-lash-or-slack-but-still-isn't-solidly-hooked-up. If you keep it up forum moderators will code software to insert the term 'loosey-goosey' anytime you type in cush/slack/lash/slop/slush. Then try to get your valve loosey-goosey set right!

I agree it had to be making friction in order to wear into the metal like that, even if it is intended only as a 'gasket.' Mine now has a thin coat of moly, so very little friction if any.

I wasn't really saying that I wouldn't modify the cushies without space age material. If I were to drill them I would like to make some cleaner holes and space them more consistently and uniformly. Not that it would make a hair's worth of difference in how they work and I realize no one sees them but me. It's just how I like to do things. No offense to Greg nor to others, but the only rendition I've seen of these modification looks a bit raggedy. I don't think that takes anything away from its functionality, yet I'm surprised no one offered up a bodge point. My pucks felt as soft as tire rubber. Of course it's mighty hard to gauge durometer with a fingernail while the Wikapedia results are thought provoking. It looks like they're saying the rubber from a solid truck tire (is that like for a tow motor or child's wagon?) is softer than an automotive tire?

If I hadn't been saddled with a wheel bearing change I may have poked my cushies while they were out. I'd still like a more 'elegant' solution, if even cleaner holes maybe spaced with a template to be all uniform. Sure it's a bit anal, but at least I'm not into gerbils with or without duct tape. I did clean it all up nicely, apply silicone grease to the cushies, BelRay waterproof to all the metal parts and bearings, copper anti-seize to the bolts and put it all back together with a new Pirelli Strada. Me bitty wombatty bwain even thought of Pete and his fuzzy buddies while setting my uncalibrated torque wrench to 120NM to set the axle nut torque from the wrong side. A BMW buddy was explaining how they crack the gearbox from the motor and slide it back about every 20,000 miles to put a bit of grease on the input splines where the clutch disc slides; says it smooths the clutch operation and saves the splines. These are surely the same splines Greg referenced as being vulnerable to the engine braking. I've yet to check the Guzzi manual to see if lube is recommended there upon reassembly. It was in the Haynes manual for the R80/100

Thanks for the feedback. When my first bearing went out the dealer sent me a pair. So, I guess you could say this is part of my Seven Year Warranty!