docc

I don't see any marks on the original button head bolts at all. Am I missing something?

The original fasteners are ferrous and have no markings. So what is their rating?

I used stainless bolts. They seem a little soft torquing them up to the 30NM. I munted one and had to re-use one of the originals. I learned the line indicator from a pilot friend with a turbo Kawi 1000. I've used it on the shaft bolts having found one backed off a bit. Most of the yellow paint is on the injection adjustments to deter tinkering. Or to help tinkerers find all the screws to turn. The whitish lines on the rotors are different and, I suspect, one more attempt to show due diligence in keeping the rotors from coming loose. My 'new' (slightly used) rotors are a bit grabby. I'm hoping the slightly used pads will bed in and the whole affair will smooth up.

These things are notorious for leaking. Having had it apart does it look like it can be resealed with conventional O-rings or such?

Bought new, now 7 years old with 49,640 miles. Nothing major after the broken gear case and gearbox replacement. Tranny seals, instruments, wheel bearing, lots of electrical modifications to head off the 'lektric gremlins . . .

The dirty deed is done. Propane for about one minute, rap the new hex drive twice then the Lisle impact drive three or four times with a 20 once (500g) machinist's hammer and turn the bad boys out with a breaker bar. I only munted one coming out and one going in having to resort then to the chisel and punch method. The thread locker on the original bolts coming out was definately blue not red. Should I repaint the little lines that would show them backing out as on the factory set-up? (What do you call those lines, anyway?)

Straighten up there, boys. You're being moderated by a guy with a German bike. And if we're gonna have vampires, let's have Catherine DeNeuve and Suasn Sarandon from The Hunger. I'd be helpless . . .

Thanks, Emry. Hammers I got. The local parts store (not AwtoeZoan, but the kind with dirty floors and counters) has a driver made by Lisle. I may give it a go since I can have it in the garage today. If it breaks I know where to order that Snap-On! I'll try it with the new SK hex drive as they say it's a no-questions-replacement -guarantee.

Hazards of the internet: every time I think I've got my Sport well sorted something new gets added to the list. This sure looks like time well spent. Er, but "shnorr" washers? Waazzzat?

Some years back I tried using the Axone (is that the right spelling?) to check my CO. The reading was all over the place. The experienced and reliable tech (Alan at Corse Motosports) felt it was the oil had some miles on it and this can throw the readings around. If you are taking time to put your Guzzi on a gas analyzer to set the CO, make sure you have a recent oil change to make the readings more stable. Otherwise, a good digital voltmeter for the TPS, feeler gauge to set the valves, and some way to balance the throttle bodies is all you need for a good tune-up.

I believe the missing wire is the one which the ECU reads the voltage. Without it the bike thinks there is no charging, hence the voltage light stays on. Couldn't you hook this wire to the harness or battery where it is hot and get a reading which turns the light out?

greg, no upgrade for the earlier Veglia with the bevel drives?

So, Pete, are you a 'sump puller' or can you be content to change the filter through the access hole?

Norman, Relay Failures is a good thread to read about the wiring of the v11. I have added a ground strap from the frame to the timing chest, moved the terminal stack from the battery to a junction block ( also called a 'bus'), grounded the horns and headlamps to the frame, and anchored the grounds inside the instruments. Have a look at this Accessory Fuse Box thread. Also, consider cleaning, tightening and applying copper anti-seize paste to any connectors you run across. Over time the electrics get better and better!

Hey! I resemble that remark!

You strike this with a brass mallet or a machinist's hammer? Sounds like it's worth waiting til I can get one of these and also a fresh propane bottle. Thanks for all the feedback!

May I suggest: The mass of G determines A for any given spring rate and preload, rather than R? Certainly there is a point where too much preload has been added to compensate for a soft spring. I found this to limit rebound compliance and believe it contributed to my crash. Better rebound compliance may not have saved me from the stupidity and lack of skill that caused the crash, but I could sure have used a little more help from the suspension. That there can be too much or too little preload suggests that there would be an ideal that optimizes both the compression and rebound action of the spring.

Still seems like the first few mm will compress identically to the last few mm ( just as in increasing preload) as long as the spring rate in linear ( non-progressive). And in the algebraic vernacular, if 'bike only' is B and 'bike and rider' is BR, then BR-B=R (rider), no? Honestly, this is semantics and no doubt the difference between laden and unladen sag is as important as the sag measures themselves. I think the 18mm+/- measure is a good figure and agree that the Sport behaves better (subjectively) with more unladen sag front than rear, yet with a smaller 'difference' ( or whatever we're calling the difference) up front. Still no thoughts on optimal preload? Traxxion specifies adding 15mm for the fork springs, but wouldn't that depend on the free length of the spring and its full travel?

Seems to me the only difference between 'laden and 'unladen' sag is the rider (well, and any other load). So the 'difference' or the 'guideline' and the 'rider sag' are all the same, no? Semantics perhaps. Terminolgy can be an obstacle to communication but also an avenue to further one's understanding. To be sure what Ohlins calls 'ride height' is what we're calling the laden sag and our reference to ride height more pertains to the height of the front or rear above the tarmac which will affect the front-rear weight bias and center of gravity. Also. it occurs to me that a spring must have some optimal preload. Traxxion Dynamics has something on this in their fork spring instructions. It seems like it ought to be a percentage of the available spring compression. I was able to get good sag measures by preloading my stock Marz spring an extra 9mm, but the fork topped out easily and limited rebound travel. Finally, I'm thinking adding preload could affect spring rate only if the spring is progressive by pressing the spring into its higher rated region. Straight rate springs wouldn't change regardless of the preload.

Yeah, it's the lower, smaller one. Something must have been lost in the translation . . .

Vernon, I suppose it would be easy enough to pull a spring and get some dimensions. It's really quite easy if you have a shop stand and floor jack. There are some spring measurements in this post and thread mostly for the Marz 40 and later Ohlins 43. The Ohlins spring for the 43mm Guzzi fork is 1.475" outside diameter and 9 5/8" free length. Not sure how that will compare to the Marz 43mm springs. I would not consider the 40mm and 43mm springs interchangable.

V, That's about the best I found. I was lucky to find some 'take-offs' from a guy who had hot-rodded his Spot1100. You could rob the stockers from the Coppa and put some extra trick waves on it.

When I married my wife she called her Strada "Fiat Nam."

This is not a ball head. Looks like it has a good fit and certainly fresh sharp edges. I had attempted the heat but probably didn't keep it on long enough or hot enough. So, going back in, you think Red Loctite again or blue is OK?

I would consider bending over around you guys a dicey proposition. One of the problems considering bike weight is the unsprung variable. While the V11 is arguably heavy for a sport bike, its heavy reardrive is unsprung. Running a stiffer rear spring for that weight may be misguided since all that weight is not acted on by the spring outside of rebound.