docc

Awright, now! This cat business has gone a bit too far! Stuffing a cat in your bell housing? I happen to like the little felines just fine. Especially the way they do 'em in that little place up the street with the Sechuan chili sauce. hmmm . . . tastes like chicken . . .er, I mean, goose . . .

I found a great color match for the painted side plates. Really just needed a touch up ( don't ask) ajnd spent three days looking at finger nail polish (don't ask) with no luck . Best match: Testor's (the model company) Italian Red spray paint. It's a good quality enamel and applies very evenly. It can be sprayed onto a card for a little brush work ( chips, nicks) if need be.

Al, Where can I get a Twin-Max? I looked back for that thread but to no avail. I tried ordering one from Chapparal but they sent me Hg sticks instead.

Carl, Are you using the same tires on your "bugswatter" as the "exhilerator?" And Dave's talking 160/60 and 110/70? Also I wonder ahat tire pressures you use? I find 38-40 minimizes high speed squirm and firms up cornering. Added bonus: less wear. Regarding the original query: i really enjoy the dramatic compression braking of the Guzzi. Not to mention the acceleration and torque. Multiply that x6 upshifting and x6 down and . . .what's that? oh, the smell of tire having gone away! After the original Pirellis, dunlops, Bridgestones and, now Michelin Pilot Road I get around 4000-4500 (never mind the 2800 on the Pirelli rear). Fronts usually get more .

My pinging resolved after adjusting the TPS providing a richer mixture through the range. I have also noticed the surprise of richening not lowering fuel economy. Careful inlet balancing also makes these motors very happy indeed. As delivered my sport's pipes were blue and one side much more than the other. Now , with good mixture, they are evenly bronze.

My Y2K V11 Sport came with the forks flush. After increasing my preload with spacers(16 mm!), I dropped the triple clamp 10 mm. My stability (acid) test is 90 mph passing 80 mph trucks on the freeway. It could probably drop the other 6mm , or perhaps more, pending stability and any tendency for the side stand to touch down. The other factors that figure in are your tire pressures, rear preload and rear tire size.

David, Thanks for getting this posted! Those who followed the previous threads remember this filter came out of a good bit of research and the cooperation of pureoil Co. who makes the Purolator. Guys, just take a look at this filter and you'll agree: the laser welded stainless is very robust and appropriate for the vibration level on the spine frame. ( What, you LIKE all that vibration? ) The FI clamps really are a good upgrade as the usual perforated worm gear crap does cut into the fuel line over time. ( Again, read "vibration") Look well ahead! docc

Indeed, the locator bolt is redundant. In fact the 2000 sales brochure claims the clip-ons are adjustable both fore-aft and up-down. The only way to acheive lower position is to loose the locator bolt. I have my 2000 V11 Sport clipons all the up and all the way back. Properly torqued the pinch bolts will prevent slippage under normal use, even at speed. I've only tested mine to 200 kph. Beyond that, you're on your own.

Servicing one's own ride is akin to 'servicing' one's otherwise companion. leaving this to others robs one of the greater satisfactions in life. By all means, set your wrench upon it! After filling my rear drive to the overflowing point (from the level plug) I read ( in "Guzziology") that oil will cascade off the pinion giving a false reading. I found a proper graduated cylinder and measured the oil. The rear drive was at 80 % capacity. Probably adequate but having the full measure makes me feel a better partner to the Guzzi.

My sport was very sensitive to brands of fuel until I richened the TPS. No pinging or stalling but fuel economy went from 37.5 mpg to 34.5 mpg.

I'm trying to understand how a deep sump would solve the starvation problem. I'm thinking it's more the modified pick-up than the actual sump. Is there no way to modify the pick-up on the original set up? Also, do you think a windage tray would solve the starvation?

The screens and packing will recuce noise like acoustic tile in a big room. The added surface area provides for this without much restriction in flow.

I've rather enjoyed a comfortable welcome here. I've been warned about beng 'hooted' off other boards and witnessed countless little tiffs on other forums. But not here. The acid test is for someone to post "I think I'll get rid of my Guzzi." This forum has always been most gentlemanly in response. Not so elsewhere as you'd be labelled 'troll' or worse. I appreciate all of your patience with me and my hope to better use and understand my V11. And Carl ! ! You know we 'Sport - sorts' are just visiting here in Le Mans land! That view of the mounds . . . eh, er . . .mountains is sure to offend the snobby LM types. You know they're not into nekkid stuff! Mebbe Jaap could photo-shop a fairing onto that green sport.

This is true. There should be some 'play' in the mount. Recently I discovered a crack at the hole where the bracket mounts to the clip-on. This soon became a 2-piece bracket. It is apparent that the lower mounting hole (slot?) extends into the bend. Certainly a formula for fracture with this level of vibration.

And I'm trying to imagine that those tanker trucks and the hoses they use are more sano than your Guzzi. No, fuel filters are a good thing! I continue to read the angst over Power Commanders. Without a doubt this introduces another aspect to be sorted and tuned.

Fuel line degragation is not unlikely. I guess changng lines with the filter change is not a bad idea. Remember, much more fuel is being pumped and filtered than burned because of the closed loop return system. You'd think the fuel would get cleaner and cleaner. But if there is line degradation new particles would be washed off with every pass. Because of the reduced surface area in the IsuZu filter the interval would be safer at 6000 miles. The water in the mercury columns is ever present and must throw off the readings. I've tried keeping mine next to a dehumidifyer but they still get the water. Ordered a Twin Max from Chapparal yesterday for around $64. Hate to give up the sticks. They're so . . . (old fashioned?) (arcane?) . . .(primal?) Oh, well, technology marches on and even the Guzzi will be advantaged to follow.

Has anyone asked Sachs if they can supply a higher rate spring for the rear unit?

While riding, I theorized the adjustment needed attention since the box was 'passing' upshifts and falling short on downshifts. After removing the cap nut I found the adjusting screw had migrated off center and its jam nut was no longer tight. I centered the screw by aligning a ruler behind the foot lever and carefully aligned the adjustment to center. Then, holding the slot still with a screwdriver, tightened the jam nut with a 19mm crow's foot. I'm still negotiating with the dealer on an inspection of the preselector mechanism for wear or damage. I've posted over on the Wildguzzi site for information on the Cycle World long term V11s. They apparently replaced the shift forks and, perhaps, the sliders. I'm looking for more info on this bike. Also, early production bikes are known for more difficulties. Most early production have polished (not painted) front turn signal extensions and finned exhaust manifolds. Mike, how early is your sport? How many miles when it grenaded?

Tonight i re-adjusted the 'pawl ' engagement. Technically referred to as the adjustment of the hook effect of the preselector. I had observed upshifts passed a gear and downshifts fell short. upon checking the adjuster I find that it had 'migrated ' off center. After resetting it to center missed shifts have *almost* disappeared! The adjustment is very sensitive as the shaft only rotates about 60 degrees moving the foot lever perhaps 5-6 mm. As Rich says, "This bike loves to have everything 'just so'."

Gio, Thanks for taking the time to give us a procedure on this. I would expect about a full turn of the thumbwheel to move the mercury 2 cm. Holding the throttle steady "off idle" should stabilize the columns. This is 1500-2000 RPM and up to perhaps 3000 rpm. Use caution releasing the throttle as the vacuum will increase and you don't want the motor to ingest the mercury! Do the Hg columns still jump around at a steady, off-idle throttle?

I've read long debates on what might spring seal leaks. The jury is still out. I put some moly in my gearbox last change hoping to improve shifting. It didn't. It just made it harder to evaluate the condition of the fluid upon changing the next time. Back to Bel-Ray. NOTE: The rear drive does hold 370 ml(cc) of which 20 cc is moly. The Guzzi stuff is good (shake well!), part number K660032. Now this: When my box miisses a gear I have observed it goes completely past it , into neutral before the next gear. This has been occurring now on the downshift as well. It has taken some time to confirm this observation. I find that if the box misses I shift BACK the other way to find the intended gear. This occurs more in hard acceleration (deceleration) and aggressive shifting. All other Guzzisti are saying, "You must shift very hard and with a long throw." While this may be true for the 5-speed I am now questioning this logic for the 6-speed. After studying enlargments from the manual detailing the 'preselector' mechanism, I reduced the leverage at the foot lever (lower hole) and at the splined shaft (rotated the input lever back so as to reduce its leverage while shortening the rod to its minimum length). I then took a ride purposefully minimizing inputs to the shift lever. The (tentative) result: many less missed shifts. It appears the preselector can be kicked into overtravel fairly easily. Under warraanty I will be disassembling my side cover (preselector cover) to better examine the workings. As always I will let you know what is found. I am confident we can make this mechanism shift more reliably. Now, my question to you: when your gearbox misses shifts, does it fall short of the next gear, or 'pass' it?

Paoli?? My Ducati friends say "pay-o-la." Do you think they're really any better than the Marzocchis?

Al, I'd need one of those nifty digicams to do it up right. Plus, I feel like the "How - To" threads otta be penned by someone more qualified than just tinkerin' me. One of the things that complicates it is how much we've each changed our bikes. Lot's of different exhaust, air filters and then there are Power Commanders. It's a case of what works for me may not work for you.Further, some of us are hacking into the ECU with a voltmeter and others are using software and a PC. How would we proceed with a task like that? Gio, yes, the 'idle screw' would be the horizontal stop screw which determines the minimum opening of the throttle at idle. The manual calls it the "adjustment screw." It is also careful to say not to use it to adjust the idle ! The idle is a balancing act between the CO level, TPS setting, air bypass and synchronization. BTW, what is "LHS?"

Check out the "spitting and Popping "thread. This requires a digital voltmeter, synchronizing tool and , I prefer, sinlgle malt scotch .

The manual says to : Set the TPS Adjust the idle (best done with the left idle screw, defeating the right completely) Balance with the air bypass closed Reset the idle Warm up and check the CO Reset the idle and check the balance The manual actually says more than this, as you know. Every time you change one setting it affects the others, like a cat chasing its tail. As Dave Richardson says in "Guzziology" going over and over the procedure brings you closer and closer to the optimum. You can "back probe" the ECU connector but straight pins work better than paper clips. Black/violet is positive and violet is negative. I have found 525 mV (3.6 degrees open) at idle to be rather rich. This is why opening the air screws a bit more will often smooth out the unstable idle. All of this , of course, IMHO after fussing, fiddling and fettling 24,000 miles.