Dimitris

Perfectly explained Dave! Thank you so much!! Your indications will proove very helpful! Just one more thing: How can I make sure that the choke is loosened (so as to be sure that the butterfly valve is closed)? I suppose that the level on the left handlebar should be in the upper position, correct?

Hi Remo! Welcome!

Hi ! Although many have been written, as fas as I searched some pages, I didn't find any pics and the Old Daddy's page is not working since many months now.. So do you know where I could find some pics of the hose clamp mounted on the filter? What is the procedure? I will put a UFI filter, which I bought a few months ago. Since I am willing to change the oil filter every 5.000 km, this means that everytime I will have to dismount the sump?

Chris, it is a great idea! I would be very interested! If you find someone specialized in Guzzi tuning, then Athens! Here I come! I will be waiting for further news! Be well!

+100 There are already some other very good forums for the newer Guzzi Models. The knowledge here is priceless.

1)So "back off the right idle screw" is the same with the "back out the right idle screw" which means "loosen the right idle screw" which in simple words means "turn it left??" 2)In the forum's procedure is written "Next open both air bypass screws to obtain the idle RPM at 1100 to 1200 while maintaining balance. Air bypass screws should be open 1/2 turn or more. If not, back off the idle screw to reduce the TPS voltage reading in steps of 15 mv and open the air bypass screws to compensate until they are opened 1/2 turn or more." Which means "turn the left idle screw left"? the reason I am asking these details is that I will try to do it all by myself for the fisrt time and I want to be accurate and correct so as to be sure that if somenthing goes wrong, what and where to look at... Thank you in advance and excuse me if I am being tiring...

Steve you mean the PC545 Metal Jacket, or the simple one?

Ryland, thank you for your reply. Yes, I will stick with the forum's procedure. "back out the right idle screw" means fully closed, am I right?

Thank you GuzziMoto. Today I passed by the tuning shop but it was closed because it was late in the afternoon. But I have patience.

Before I start I would like to apologize if the following questions of mine have already been stated by others and answered, but in this big topic of TPS adjustment I am lost so here it is: I read carefully all the previous text (the procedure of adjusting the TPS and balancing the TBs). Then I opened the Guzzi Service Manual and read the procedure about the same subject. I noticed the following differences: Moto Guzzi Manual:1) Turn the Key to On (while the Axone is being connected) 2)Disconnect the connecting rod 3)turn the right throttle idle screw until 3,8 degrees are written on the software's screen 4)reconnect the connecting rod 5)fully close the bypass screws on both sides 6)bring the left throttle idle screw fully home (it means "screw fully in"??) 7)start engine 8)at 2000-3000 rpm (not at idling) check that the two cylinders air flow is balanced. If not turn the synchronization rod adjuster till the correct balancing 9)Grafually open both bypass screws so as to reach an idling speed of 1100+/-50 rpm. 10)If idling speed is not in specific limits: close the throttle duct (throttle angle 0°); (what does "close the throttle duct" means?) · turn the ignition key to ON ; · install the tester probes inside the throttle position sensor connector across terminals “Q” and “R” and check that the voltage reading is 150mV +/- 15mV.(does Guzzi means it should be done with the rod disconnected?) · If the throttle position sensor reading does not fall inside the above values, loosen fastening screws and proceed to correct re-positioning. Queries: 1)The first step of the forum's procedure is the final step of the Guzzi's procedure 2)Then, the forum's procedure sets the TPS (with the connecting rod connected) to .521mV, through the left throttle idle screw, while the Guzzi procedure sets it from the beginning through the right idle screw to 3,8 degrees (553mV), with the connecting rod disconnected. Is it just the same procedure from the "reverse"? Or according to the many's people experience here, the conclusion is that the forum's procedure is more accurate? Please help. As I will be waiting the VDST standard for my V11 LeMans I wanted your thoughts, opinions and explanations. Thank you Dimitris

Oh, this is a problem in the city I live. Unfortunately there isn't any known technician specialized on Guzzis as far as I know, here in Thessaloniki. In Athens there are some technicians who know how to service Guzzis but I doublt if they have experience in tuning/improving those bikes. I've heard of a man, here in Thessaloniki, who is specialized in tuning bikes through the PowerCommander. As far as I know he tunes many Ducatis. So he is my only chance of trying to make a custom map (apart from some good ready-made maps that RacerX gave me). One thought is to go to Italy and have a tune there, but the cost would be too high and also free time will be needed.... I hope this "Ducati man" will be able to sense the needs of Guzzis......

Hi Chris! When do you think we will be able to ride together with our Guzzis? Those 500 kms that seperate us are not too many, are these? Unfortunately I won't be able to take part to the 11th Guzzi Meeting that will be held in Peloponnese, since those days I will have some work to do....and I am very sad... Be well!

Although I have not any experience, you must be absolutely right, that's why I plan in the future to make a custom map on a dyno.

Excellent! What crossover and mufflers do you use? Stock or aftermarket? Have you dynoed your bike before and after the pisotn installation? Did you only change the pistons or also other parts of the cylinder?

thank you all for your responses! On Wednesday it will be welded.

Thank you Ratchetchak! I didn't know that Todd had a solution about it. I will look at it.

I'm thinking seriously of combining these 2 maps. It would be very interesting to see the results. You 're right. Through the PCIII you can have everything!

Today I realized I have a small crack in my left exhaust pipe. Just in front of the point where it comes out from the left cylinder. Has anyone had such an experience?

If these bikes are properly tuned....at those revs..feel like..heaven..( ) Today I changed the map. More smoothness at high revs. Accelarating better at high revs. No hesitations at high revs. 10 more kilometers/h as maximum speed (220km/h and maybe more..), BUT lost power at mid range. Guess you can't have everything... I think the best will be to upload the fisrt map whenever I go for track days.

Thank you all for your comments. Tomorrow I will go to change the map with the Mistral one. I will update...

Hi, My V11 LeMans has the BMC air filter, the Ferracci lid air kit, the Mistral Crossovers and Titanium Silencers, and the PCIII usb (bought from Todd-RacerX, and the package included 4 maps one of which is a map for the Mistral silencers). Since I often go for trackdays my mechanic installed to the PCIII the map made for the Quat-D xover-muffler and not the map made for Mistrals. The reason that he installed this map is that I do trackdays and since I want that something more, it is better that way. I just followed his thought. I just notice that I smell benzin whenever I turn the bike on. The mixture is probably rich. My mechanic told me that I have nothing to fear of. I am not legal, I know but...keeping in mind that I go trackdays.... One month ago according to the protocol of this forum we followed the procedure for the TPS-TB balancing (150mV with the connecting rod not connected etc..). After the procedure finished the bike was idling perfectly. It was like I was hearing...a....Honda (hahahahahaha)...We also realized that the benzin-smell was not so.."strong". Last Sunday I went for a ride. I noticed that the bike had difficulties when the revs were reaching 7.000 rpm with the 5th and 6th gear. When I put 4th, the revs could reach 8.000 rpm or more (with a little bit difficulty) but with the 5th or 6th gear on, when reaching 7.000rpm I was feeling that the bike will spill its gut out..(I hope it is correct written..haha). So my mechanic, through the PCIII increased the mixture at high revs only (2 or 3 scales if I remember well). I went for a ride immediately and noticed that the bike could accelarate better with the 5th and 6th gear, reaching and passing 7.000rpms till 8.000 and more, without the difficulties I was sensing.. There are many things that trouble me...and I don't know from where to start.... Apart from all the things I wrote above I want to add also: When I bought the bike (stock, nothing had been changed) I started noticing that when I was accelerating, then keeping the throttle gauge steady and then deccelerating the bike was behaving...not smooth...it was like sudden coughs....there was no smoothness...Also the idle was not steady. Then I mounted the PCIII with the Mistrals, thinking that the problem could be solved. BUT the time when the problem was solved was when the TPS was reset (about 5 months ago but not the forum's way). After a short period of time I noticed that cough symptoms again and then we followed the forum's TPS procedure I wrote above... The cough symptoms are "healed" although I sometines feel the..lack of smoothness I would like to have... So you see I feel lost....Does my TPS has problems and needs to be changed? What about the racing map I am currently running... The benzin smell... Why did the problem become lesser when the mixture was increased through the PCIII, since I already use the Quat-D map? Although it was solved...should I nevertheless change the map and load the Mistral map? Will it be better? The thing that I care the most is not to have that cough symptoms. I want smoothness when I open and close the throttle. What is the top speed you see with your V11 LeMans? At what revs is the revlimiter? sorry if I write a lot...I just wanted to write these things for a time now.... Thank you for "listening"...

Don't softer tires (like M3) give you (generally speaking) greater stick in comparison to the less soft ones (like the Z6 or Diablo Strada)? The more harder the "rubber" the less the "accretion", am I not right?

yeap!! I don't know what to believe. My Piaggio Dealer told me that there are rumours in Italy of producing a new 125 hp V90 Guzzi engine for a new sport bike...I wish this is true!

Why put Metzeler Z6 or Pirelli Diablo Strada on a sporty bike like the V11LeMans? OK, I agree that they last longer and are also very good on rain, but Metzeler M3 Sportec are softer, safer and give you more angle to bent. A sport touring pair of tires for a sport touring bike. Personally I find them excellent also on wet roads. And if you are thinking of track days....these are excellent too. A great balance between sporty mood, safety (wet roads) and longevity.

Congrats on your new purchase!