gthyni

Wow, lot of more exciting info. I can't help myself , I get so curious by this. I really bought the MG to have a steady alternative to my "experimental BSA". Now I'm on the the path of EFI hacking (I better sell the Beeza before making the Guzzi my main project). I'll check out the harness tomorrow I still got warranty on the bike so the best solutions is to make all mods reversable, which is a complicating factor. I also nice to be able to go back to the 1.5M when I screw up and for A/B tests.

I have personally not had this problem, but I saw this solution on RaceCo's site. I think for us not-really-racing guys it should be sufficient to not drop the oil level more then just below the max level on the dipstick.

I read all the info on Cliff's My16M site and got really excited about the project. I have a few questions to start of a discussion: - Clifff do you run the My16M for everyday use (in Closed Loop mode)? - Where/how do mount the 02-sensor? In the crossover? - Anyone else interested in testing it on a V11?

Raceco sells a crossover Is this their own construction? Anyone having tried it?

Stupid Q: What is these adaptor thingies, and where can i get them or how do I make them myself? On the Beeza I just have to measure the throttle appeture

Just use hi resolution and then crop and scale using Photoshop or the Gimp That way you can test sizes, cropping, colour depth and so on if only the original picture has enough resolution.

Paul, your V12 is really wicked. I'm not sure about the short mufflers though, I would rather have a good old 2-into-1 system, anyone seen such a thing on a V11. This is going on my Beeza as soon as I got the time: The muffler is a short Supertrapp, something like that on the V11 would be nice.

Thanks for the replies. I am going to change the oil this weekend and add the Molykote when I get it.

.. or a bad connection, a bad soldering or dirt/humidity which just "fixed" by yanking the cable. "Glappkontakt" in swedish Be aware that in that case the problems probably will appear again, and at worst possible moment

Luckily I haven't experienced more then minor glitches which I hope to correct on 1st service, but the bike is not really broken in yet, just under 200 kms on the meter. If I had problems like this that seemed unsolvable the last options would always be to rip the FI out and bolt on couple of Mikunis , but that's the last option and may not be legal in some countries due to emission regulations

Have you tried: http://www.powercommander.com/opccvelasco.shtml My V11 too idles a bit crappy, I will set the tappet clearance to Raceco specs and make sure the trottels in sync. Since my bike is (yet!) unmodified I think this will do the trick. When I got my planned pod filters and supertrapp megaphones on I will probably need a PCIII or FIM dyno run.

Guzzi recommends 2 cc of Molykote Type A in 35 cc transmission oil for the final drive. I read the in the forum that the final drive gets hot and that is probably the reason behind the recommendation of the Molykote additive. The problem is that it is not easy to come by I have ordered a 12 cc bottle but I don't know when I get it. I really feels it is high time to change the oil ASAP since it has run 2000 km on original oil. It is important to get any metal which is loose in there from the break-in , but at the same time: do I dare running with high quality trans oil (Castrol syntetic) only until I get the Molykote? Experience needed.

this is a hard issue.. the cost of testing tires are quiet high. I still has the stock BT57s on my V11, 2 years old but only 2000 km yet. I not completely happy with the grip and handling even in dry conditions. According to Bridgestone's website BT57 is a "sport tire" while 020s is for touring, which makes me even more concerned about the not too good grip. I just changed tires on the Beeza from Metzeler "classics" to modern tires (Avon AM20/21 Roadrunner), it like another bike. I have to go out this weekend and do some hard run with the old-timer Think I will try Pirelli Diablos next year on the V11 since I heard good things about them. Only hope they match my V11 and my riding style.

I have a BMW car it is very reliable (and fun too for being a car that is) BMW motorcycle are reliable AND BORING As for detail quality and reliability the germans are clearly superior to the italians. Italians motorcycle (and car) makers make suberb motors and chassis then they seems to loose interest. As a "weekend warrior" I want a motorcycle to love not to rely on. I love my V11 and it's quiet reliable too , as for the old Beeza, it's unconditional love

I guess the fuelpump is needed to give the FI an even pressure in the fuel feed. *But* an inquiring mind must know: the fuel tank is still well above the injectors - would it not be possible to get by without any fuel pump at all?

I order some things recently and used: info@agostiniduilio.com and assistenza@agostiniduilio.com

Google rules: http://www.hooliganracingproducts.com/

Only we try to stand out from the rest of Europe by producing superior products like Öhlins forks and shock (You started this) As for Scandinavia: Your getting old Jaap (left school too long ago). Sweden, Denmark and Finland is part of EU nowadays, Norway and Iceland is not. callison wrote: > Ohlins is owned by Yamaha. Where do we go from here? Majority-owned buy Yamaha, the founders still holds a minority share and controls the daily operation of the company.

To clarify, a was thinking amateur racing, not MotoGP where carbon is cheap and you do not need filters at all since the motor is rebuilt for every race. The "airbox" is then a tuning device to optimise the flow and length of the air column as described in the excellent document at: http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRaci...intaketuned.cfm My point was (even if it was clear enough) I do not think ramair does any real diffence in real life, it is more a marketing gimmick. If it had a significant effect it would create problems. Even an advanced adaptive engine control computer like the one on BMW M-technic sport cars has limits to what parameters it works within. It works to adapt to the natural variantion in temperture, humitity, petrol quality and altitude, but if you do significant changes to the flow in intake or exhausts it too has to be remapped. The problem with ramair (if it works) is that it is not predictable which would make it impossible to map the FI in an optimal way. The difference between carbs and FI is a finer granuality in the "mapping" and a certain degree of adaptivity in the FI unit (but as said within limits). But my main point again ramair was that: I think is mostly hype with no real life effect.

So is the Marzocchi fork and the Sachs shock, but Öhlins forks and shocks are "made in Sweden"!

Found a WP fork with price at RaceCo: http://www.raceco-uk.com/wheels.html With triple clamps £975.00 plus VAT Without triple clamps £765.00 plus VAT £765 = $1253 = 1066 euros (at least at this moment )

Excellent read, if a little car centric. A sport motorcycle has more radical cams and works at higher RPMs than a car engine. I went out and measured I estimate the intake from valve to airbox the column is about 23cm (9"), which with a pod directly on the injection unit is reduced to about 16cm (just above 6"). The intake lenght would be reduced by 30%. A moderately shortened manifold and the freer airflow of PODs should theoretically give more power in the higher RPM range.

not according to the 2003 catalog I downloaded from http://www.powercommander.com/ BUT Ultimap seems to have that capability, check: http://www.fuelinmoto.com.au/ Ultimap should be cheaper than a custom PCIII mapping since no hardware is required just a workshop with a dynobench and the Ultimap software. Ultimap remaps the Marelli 15M instead of adding a secondary computer.

Kerker Meg: http://www.supertrappind.com/MotorcycleATV.../meg_series.asp or the universal 4" external disc megaphone which is available in 2" inlet: http://www.supertrappind.com/Universals_pa.../universals.htm should look good on my V11. Either way I think you have to throw together some mountpoint yourself.

Wow, that was UGLY I wont even tell you what it reminds me of since this is a family site Another reason not to go for ramair beside the technical doubts. If you really need more air and are not afraid of "uglifying" your poor Guzi why not go for turbo charging.