gthyni

Without checking, I am with Jaap. using a hot air gun on the outside of the hub usally is a good way to the "loosen the grip" on the bearing.

Don't worry too much, check the oil stick, if the "milk" is visable on that change the oil otherwise just keep you service intervals. I also live in a cold and sometimes rainy climate, I always changes oil between riding seasons. The oilsystem is not a closed system so it is normal the get some moisture into the oil. If it is just a few drop it vaporize when the motor gets warm and cause the phenomena you describe.

Most experience porters are autodidacts or have learned by working with people who knows this stuff, there is no university of motor tuning. There are many examples where traditional "flow porting" has worked very well, but there are examples here in Scandinavia both in road-racing and drag-racing where Motoman's "velocity porting" have been used with great results.

Pierrot's bike with Tomaselli clip-ons: Sorry Jaap, had to hack your Javascript

You should be hearing Öhlins but you don't have that key on your keyboard I guess. It is pronance like the vocal in the particle "an", says: "ön Öhlins fork", great party trick

Flowbench or not? This guy has an alternative view

MG recommends a few drops (2 cc) in the rear drive oil, it reinforce the oil while heat and high pressure puts the oil under heavy load. A few drop in the gearbox won't hurt either since we have dry-clutches, don't use it with wetclutch. I would not put any such additive in the motor oil since motor oil have to flow through channels without restiction while transmission oil are almost stationary.

A "traditional" clip-on is just a straight pipe clamped to the fork tube. Our clip-ons are a bit higher so dropping them an inch or 2 should not be a problem as long as you feel safe and comfortable.

I don't remember the side stand switching off the head light. In fact I think I lost power to start the bike by accidently leaving the head light on while taking a break. Maybe there are diffences in wiring between diffent years or between my euro-guzzi and your "american goose".

Can we see some pics with the stand in the "up" position? Do you have to sacrify some ground clearence?

if the CD is old you could fetch the latest version from the PC site bugfixed and updated.

Usable power is the key... using a less than optimal suspension setup to get more power certainly reduce the usable power. A local Harley rider has a tuned motor with 100+ hp wasn't able to outrun me on the BSA with less then half of that, cause his bike handles like sh*t

The Magni fairing has a classic look (197x Ducati SS) I really like. It is quiet price, around 1000 euros. Personally I ride fast enough w/o a fairing, so I'll keep the café style to preserve sanity. A tank bag gives enough "wind breaking" on longer tours.

This is my procedure: 1. check sag, adjust if possible, back end has adjustable preloading, the Marzocchi don't. 2. set all C and R very soft 1st or 2nd click, test ride and adjust R until it stop rocking 3. adjust C until the front feels stable but not hard. We wan't to catch bumps and such but just that, no excessive movement 4. set C very soft on the back, test ride again and and adjust as 3 until the bike feels balanced. Usually I wind up with softer than stock since I ride on some bumby roads, but too hard settings does worsen the handling much more than too soft ones. C = compression, R = rebound

al: I use an universal damper, partno SD 100 it has 120 mm stroke, but since the bitubo only has 80 mm stroke it points out a bit (no biggie) I think an univeral Öhlins with 90 mm stroke should be the ultimate choice, partno SD 110 baldini: no head shake, but friends of mine have had sudden scary experiences on otherwise stable bike. Better save then sorry, and since the unit from Öhlins does not restrict me at all I feels like a good investment. I put the 2003 Öhlins catalog on my site for your pleasure . Warning! Not suitable for sensible persons, this is hard core bike porn

I add a reply to this old thread instead of starting a new, Previously I have mentioned that I removed the stock Bitubo steering damper and found the bike much "lighter" to handle with no loss of stability. But there is always the danger of tank slap when running without one. Late in this season I mounted a Öhlins damper on my V11 and I can only say it is great. With loose to medium setting it is not noticeble, it is just like running without. This is what we want added safety and no ill effects. Pricey, yes. Luckily I found a 2nd hand damper at a resonable price.

I probably go for something based on Supertrapp Megaphones like this: but the shaft drive make the arrangement a bit unsymmetric, so I am just looking at alternatives. One idea is use 3" Supertrapp IDS2s, which are very slim and should fit between the subframe and the rear wheel. But it is 90% chance that I will go with the classic megaphone look, at least this winter. The riding season is probably over now here up north the garage season begins as of now.

How about these from Galassetti:

This is my interpretation, with an unrestricted flow we should not need a cross-over/balance pipe. but straight pipes isn't a practical solution unless you are Valentino Rossi The more the mufflers restricts the flow the counterpressures is reduced by using "the other" muffler to flow part to the exhaust pressure. I have a hard time understanding how pressure waves could help much given the uneven cycle of an V2 motor. I rather think the differences between different crossover is due their capacity to reduce counterpressure. I also think that the result you get from a specific crossover will vary with the flow characteristics of the mufflers, cam profiles and so on. Would be interesting to see how this is solved an Ducati 998SP or similar race bike with V2 and 2into2 system.

An important reason to use an air box is meeting the demands on sound levels. Pods make much more noise than the air box. Even a well designed factory intake is a compromise between free flow and noise level. As we dont't care about (or even like) a bit more noise, we open up our intakes to get a less restricted flow.

> When you take the lid off the air box, you immediately get some ram air effect. No, how could it be, the "snorkles" is pointed forward/downward under the tank an airbox without the lid is less ram air but more free flow of air. ram air does increase HP - a litte bit - at very high speeds. Most of us does not run over 200 km/h (= 125 mph) and at that speed the increase should be 2% => 1.8 HP at peak power. The air box of the V11 is not a good design as it restricts air, the power gains people get by just remove the lid proves that. My air box is in storage

There was a long discussion on ram air in the swedish sportbike forum - www.sporthoj.com - no link since it all in swedish. There was an actual calculation of the effect of a normal ramair configuration. The result was ta-ta-damm: 2% at 200 km/h 4% at 300 km/h If you get more the design of your airbox probably stinks That is 7 hp at top speed on a Hayabusa at that speed aerodynamics are more inportant than power.

At last the pods is in place, some plastic also got lost Filters are K&N RC-1200

I get 240-260 km running longer stretches, but it depends on your riding style. Also I tend to ride my V11 harder after the break-in and that prevents fuel consumption to drop

Forgot to say that. my point was that the price also differs between models so you can't take for granted that of Guzzi part has the same price as a Ducati part since they are very different.