gthyni

Kroon (link above) charge 560 euro for a Ducati Monster shock while a V11 equalent i 760 euros. Longer production runs for the Ducati parts makes for the price diffence. The V11 shock is very short compared to most bikes.

Anyone seen any good deals on Öhlins shocks in Europe? 900 euros is a bit steep, and they should be less expensive when exported overseas....

I think so, one more parameter to refine your mixture with, an some added complexity at least it gives me some comfort since it adds value to the choice I made the buy a brand new USB version instead of looking for a cheaper used serial unit.

yes VAT= 19% Weight: just call TLM and they will give you the total costs Here's mine (again):

No, it is very easy to service compared to most bike. FI might be scary but it is easier to work with than carbs, if you like to play with the FI buy a PowerCommander for easy access to the injection map.

Short answer: yes Not that I have had any problems but it has been pointed out that the original Siemens relays was a common point of failure. So I though "better be safe than sorry" and replaced them all.

Stupid Qs: I guess lightening meaning lessen the mass of counterweight of the crankshaft, right? But to what do the percentage figure refer too?

Unless you plan to raise the red line over 8000rpm they probably make no diffence. For higher revs we would need all the help we can get lightening the valve train.

How much does a set cost?

Maybe a dry-break coupling is the way to go for those of us regularly is removing the tank

Well, tastes differ, luckily. I think the higher placement of the pipes is nice. I would like to see a picture from behind, I expect it to be much slimmer from behind since the slipons don't have to go "around the final drive. Perhaps it even poosible with some tail mods to get close to a "Ducati Superbike look":

Found Ninja Looks nice: I have requested some more info, anyone seen/heard these in real life?

Think I spotted the Mistral logo on the cans http://www.mistralspecialparts.it/motoguzzi.html

The breather hose, Al. Did you just left it hanging?

Al, what did you do with it? Curious since I waiting for the pods I ordered.

Make that 6k sparks/minute for 12k RPM since is it a 4-stroke and each cylinder has it's own coil.

We have gone off-topic, but what the h*ll, I looked at the PVM site, most rear wheel does not come in 4.5 x 16" You have to go up to 5.5" width, since that is the standard width on the Le Mans it probably fits OK on my bike too, but I'm not sure I want a wider rim Paul, what width are you looking at (and what tyre profile)?

Dymags is not an option anymore (usless you find some left over stock or used) This is part of the answer I got from Steve Turner of Dymag Racing: I would as Paul rather go for PVM wheels, but I expect them to be very pricey

.. the hardest part is to get them backon Use a hot air gun and warm the end of the muffler cover and you can insert it quiet easily.

I have a paddock stand I bought from Agostini A must have for serious maintenance. Payed 93 euros + shipping. Something like this would be nice to have: I think will buy one this autumn, it costs about 300 euros. This one is made by a local workshop but I'm sure similar things must be available in Oz too.

Isn't it possible to do a poor-man'-s-PowerCommander be just adjust the TPS to richen the mixture all over the range?

I should not go lower than 170 on a 5.5" rim on a 4.5" rim you could go down to 150 recommended ranges 5.5" 170-190 4.5" 150-170 3.5" 110-130 Personally I think fat tires on street bikes are only for posing proposes and would go for the lower end and recommended ranges.

You are right and you are wrong, a heavier bike can be less sensitive to suspension settings but a lighter bike with correct setup is always better. I also run a lot on bumpy roads and my compression damping is set very low. Sure the fork dives quiet a bit more on heavy braking than with factory settings but it is still a long way from the bottom and bumps and roughnesses is "eaten" by the suspension as it should be. Too stiff settings and you loose contact with the ground, probably what's wrong with your friends sportbikes. When going longer trips on high speed roads I dial up the compression settings a few notches. Especially the unsprung weight is important to minimize since that is mass "outside the suspension". You have to use stiffer settings to control this mass and then you loose some ground contact.

Paul, thanks for the tip about PVM Yes one could easily go to extremes to loose the last kilo, the battery was on my mind but I forgot to list it, the rear frame (is this what is also called subframe?) idea I'll note. Zebulon, your bike looks extremely nice. It is good to have people like you and Paul onboard who go for "the full monty". I think the article ppints out how to get handling like a G&B frame from a stock frame. Of course it involves cutting and welding your frame wish is not for the faint of heart. Also I think G&B frame doesn't fit the 6-speed gearbox everybody(?) says is much better then the old 5-speed. I am talking about a street bike and think going down to 190kg dry weight is a realistic goal conbined with 100-110 HPs (on the crankshaft) it should be easily handled and give a good push in the back. And yeah I lost the tool kit already About the under-gearbox-exhaust: I am not sure it really is lighter than 2-to-1 system with a light megaphone or slipon, it at least does not look as good as one IMHO. I'll updated my first post to include your tips, keep'em coming.

Updated with some ideas in the replies Read this excellent article Interesting facts about shortering the wheel base, but what really interested me was the answers about weight. Cippi says that the MG engine is 25kg heavier than a air-cooled Ducati twin + 10 kg for the drive shaft. No lower than 160kg is possible. The weight is almost always in the shadow of engine tuning when performance of street bikes is discussed, but is just as - if not more - important than raw HPs. The cheapest way to loose some weight is probably to loose the extra 10 kg around our waists , but besides that I listed some points where kgs can be lost: First we want to loose some unsprung weight Lighter alu rims, magnesium rims, carbon rims - lots of kilos to loose. The selection is limited by the MG specific rear drive, but who says front and rear must be identical. break rotors - thinner, lightened, carbon racing calipers - lighter fork - surely there must be lighter (and better) forks than the Marchozzi out there. How about the Öhlins unit? Swing arm - heavy steel construction - alu profiles? Tyres - there are some diffences between tyres of different brands and profiles Shaft to chain conversion - but is it a Guzzi after that?? And more general weight loss: Exhaust system - OEM is very heavy, both the x-over and the muffler Replace rear subframe with something lighter - carbon or alu structure Air filter box and side panels - loose them and install pods Inner rear fender - loose it Carbon replacement - seat bank, tank, fairing (if not naked), front fender Lighter battery (and alternator) Smaller light head beam and other lamps And then for a race bike: Loose the starter motor Loose the battery and alternator (only a small ones to drive ECU, ignition, fuel pump and injectors] Loose all lights and signal horns Losts of titanium - fork clamps, exhaust pipes, bolts and so on and on And what about the engine/gearbox? What can be done? And what have I missed? Comments? Let's have a discussion and make this a How-to.