gthyni

Great pics, some mesh and bolts then..... Now I just need a welding station....

I remember that someone on the forum cut a stock crossover open and examined the inside. I have search that post for 1/2 hour with no success.... Give me a pointer? Who did it? Where is that post?

'cause some of us likes to work the throttle on backroads and like it better on the road then on the bottom of a ditch. Safety first - economy second! My current Battlax 57(?) scars the shit out of me from time to time, so this summer I'll be trying a set of Pirelli Dragon Corsa.

The problem is that the battery is underneath the fron end of the seat and has to be relocated or switch out for a smaller one.

Back to the Granucci seat cover. FYI, I got a price quote from the swedish distributer of around 70 euro incl shipping within Sweden.

PVM makes the lightest, nicest Guzzi wheels. They are not cheap, 2000-2300 euros per set

Dymag no longer make rear wheels for Guzzi.

OK, depending on what you mean by cheap. But if the difference in friction is like this at least do not pick up the cheapest bottle mineral oil on your local petrol station. :mg:s are keepers so threat them well and you will get the same in return.

So you suggest using cheap oil during break-in when the friction is at its highest. Sounds like the right thing to do

ISR is a small manufacturer, more like a workshop rather than a factory. I am sure you can order thing to exact specification, I will cost an arm and a leg but it is doable. (even the normal USR stuff is not cheap, neither is PVM stuff) Many scandinavian race teams swear by ISR brakes.

More brake pornography.... from ISR

Raceco has, or at least had, a deeper v-shaped sump with the filter on the outside:

I would drop the pan, it is not hard and usually you can reuse the gasket. Get a spare gasket anyway and save it for next time if not needed. You get the benefit of being able to clean out the sump and mesh filter wich can't hurt.

The voice of reason how boring Balancing/blueprinting with new pistons is a very good idea, and you can always use a little extra power. My opinion is that more power than we have at low/mid ranges is not useful. I want it to move when I snap to throttle open not just on the race track. Power is always usable and for sport riding you want more peak power. About pinging, yes with higher compression it would likely ping more easily, in Sweden we have 98 octane of good quality which is good enough for most application. If you can't get hi-grade petrol you perhaps need to lower the ignition to avoid pinging.

Ah, a standard SKF-bearing, made in Sweden Well the order is already in so unless they can't deliver it's a done deal. Good to know next time, thanks. The fork is a Paioli USD I got from Zeb.

I think I will break it before getting it loose. Just ordered a spare one from Motomecca so I don't get stranded now when I have got up to speed with my winter projects.

wow... Harley and quality in the same context? At least a few years ago Harleys fell to pieces just by looking at them. All mechanical things have issues, and it seems most Guzzi issues is due to MGNA (in America) and incompetent dealers. If Aprilia integrated the MG service/dealer organisation into the their main organisation most people should be happier. Having to bleed the rear brake system once is the only trouble I have had with 2001 V11. That was before they started to paint the engines for no good reason. My friends black Yamaha engine has turned dark grey, looks more like dirt then black today.

Changing to another fork which is a few millimeters slimmer. Anyone got any idea how to get the bearing of the stem? It seems like the lower yoke and stem is not easily separated. It is very tight and hard to make a temperature difference to make the fitting less tight.

It came out OK with some mild violence knock it out with a rubber mallet. Now let see if I can get the lower bearing off the axle ...

I'm in the process of changing yokes (triple claps) and so have to remove the old steering axle. Currently I have remove the top yoke, fork legs and the locking nut and dust cover above the upper bearing and got stuck. I can't see any more bolts holding the axle and will try ponding it gentle with a mallet but since it is very cold here right now ( -18 outside, -10 degreses C in the garage) I hesitate to use too much force since everything get frigile in the cold. Any tips?

Your back wheel can lock at any time on any motorcycle. If the chain breaks at high speed on chain-driven motorcycle - which is more likely than that your gearbox lock up you're in big trouble. You could worry about it and never get out of bed or you could take your chances and live

hmm, being a metric european I must verify this. 20 thousandths, is that .020" = 0,5 mm ?

How much will the valve have to be sunked to let us use a x10 camshaft without risking contact with the pistons?

Bah, torque is for wimps, I got an excellent 6-speed gearbox Jokes aside, a V11 has lots and lots of torque compared to most modern sport bikes, and for example a Honda Fireblade giving about 130 hps on the RW from less then 1000cc is very easy to ride.

Ahh the oild thread again.... Short version: good quality synthetic is always better all the time, any other statements are pure religion and should be practised in your local church not in the garage. brgrds, Tinker-G