OldButNotDead

I took my 2003 (02) V11 Naked out for it's annual trackday last weekend and maybe had a little too much fun . After a couple of sessions, I found myself unable to shift out of first gear. Ahhha thought I, the shift return spring has finally let go (~9000 mi on bike). Nope. Gear selector seems to work OK when the motor's not running. Starts fine in neutral. When clicked into first gear, it pulls forward a bit, then stalls. Seems like the clutch isn't disengaging. Pulling in the clutch lever when running in neutral gives little of that rattle I'm used to hearing. I tried bleeding the hydraulic line, with no change. I've searched a bit and found mention of loose rivets on the friction plates and warping of the intermediate plate. Anyone want to take a stab? It was a hot day and it's fair to say I wasn't at all easy on the clutch. Off to the shop it goes. I'm guessing ~5-6 hours labor to swap what's not right? It sounds like none of the aftermarket plates are particularly heplful, but I'm wondering if anyone here has tried the intermediate plate modification described on guzzitech.dk?

One please.

But...some us want ape hangers AND low clip-ons. When I bought my bike (03), I switched from the stock clipons to Ballabio risers and bar. A few years later, and I've taken off the risers/bar and switched to Convertibar clipons.(www.convertibars.com) These are good for me; they go from ~ 1 inch (~2.5 cm) **lower** than stock to several inches higher and rearward. Makes the bike about as versatile as it can be. Might even keep me from thinking about that Duc Sport Classic I foolishly demoed recently. The downsides are that they vibrate more than the rubber-mounted bar (but not more than the stock clipons), and their ID is larger than a standard 7/8" bar, so it's challenging getting barend objects to fit right. Other than that, I'm happy.

Oh dear - his "low oil light" appears to be flickering. I shouldn't have looked. Can someone get this guy a windage try?

If your valve stems are stock and anything like those on my 03, they're crap and best replaced in their entirety. Yes, the tire must come off. In the meanwhile, I think you should be able to get replacement inners for a few bucks at an auto parts store.

Auto parts store?...for the Guzzi?..... Sorry, but you're not in Kansas anymore Toto. The Buell solution works well. Reading this board is your only Salvation now. Learn the mysteries of the "Search" function and all shall be revealed. Praise be to Jaap.

That solution looks like it would jam my nads right back from whence they originally descended. A solution of sorts, but I doubt the wife would approve. Clingfilm might be the preferred option here?

The Maund seat helped me a bit - he takes off the center crown and a flatter seat means more room for your pals big and bigger. Also, if you're already used to squeezing your knees together to stay in a saddle, you might find these helpful: http://techspec-usa.com/ I'm using the clear ones (shown) and it's a welcome relief to know that I can go hard on the brakes and avoid a major gonadal crush. Too bad I don't always remember this... Wives across the globe approve.

My understanding is that the values in the boxes are the percentage changes in duration of the fuel squirt the injectors deliver. My first custom map had a single fuel table and pinged with hard roll-ons. Using the "Accelerator pump" feature helped, but didn't completely eliminate this. This feature is available as a free download for the PC III USB. I think my settings were ~70% sensitivity for 15 revs. If individual cylinder mapping was done, there should be 2 fuel tables. I had a second map with individual cylinder tuning done when I recently changed the exhaust system. The tables are quite different. It's very hard to make the bike ping now; it can be done, but it's not easy. The shop that did the individual cylinder mapping for your bike should still have that file on their computer; maybe the PO would be willing to ask for that copy?

Nice!! Time to invest in tire warmers. The unlimited power and magnetic pull on chicks sounds great, but what pushes it over the proverbial edge for me is: "The other nice thing with bringing the pipe down the length of the right side is that it balances out the rear brake carrier and disc. The bike is so well balanced now that you can come to a complete stop without putting your foot down." Lookit me ma, lookit me - NO FEET!!

It seems that far-flung bits of the Commonwealth have a tendency to degenerate into disorder. These are Canadians, no? With brown bears on one side and hostile savages on the other, there's not much time for debating subtle points best left to Webster's dictionary. As for myself, I'm viciously envious of all you guys who can access the Duffy Lake area on a regular basis. I've never been on a motorbike, but have enjoyed the hills and once drove into a ditch in a blinding snowstorm - requiring rescue by snowplow after they closed the road.

and the scraping? I hate scraping. Does this piece stick out? Half the sidestand foot was lost before I took someone's advice and cut the rubber down. dain bramage

Yes, right smart. Thanks for posting the photo. I'm thinking you must have longer legs than me - I'm not sure I'd reach it. Maybe I'll cut out the photo and paste it onto the sidestand as a mockup to decide. I do feel silly buying another overpriced piece of italian coathanger.

Yup, that's the bit. Wasn't clear on a repair and seemed like an annoying piece to try and make. Guess I'll just buy another. Maybe I'm not lubing the kickstand pivot enough

This is the second time I've broken one of these silly things in 9000mi. I find the wire cracked just in front of the rear eyelet. Yes, I know it's easier to replace than the clutch return spring, but still, it doesn't seem like this is supposed to be a "consumable". Am I the only dufus braking these?

I think that's probably right - more stable mirrors! Like OrangeOak I like the look. I also like the lowered and centered mass, less scraping, and the ability to hang bags off the back seat. James the dyno guy was pretty disappointed though. After finally sorting out proper adaptors to fit the header bungs and relating a number a choice comments to me about Italian manufacturing practices , he had to send me away with less performance than I rode in with.

Just got the bike back from custom (individual cylinder) mapping the PCIII for a new Quat-D; it's a good news (smoother) / bad news (less torque) story. 2002 V11 naked, open airbox, K&N, 0.1/0.15 valves, ~8000 mi, run in gradually with synthetic. The graph shows two runs with Stucci+Ferracci cans (upper traces) and two runs with a new Quat-D minus the cat (lower traces). All runs used a map optimized for that setup, though individual cylinder mapping wasn't done for the Ferrachi cans. The bike runs more smoothly and is **very** linear - it should be easier to ride well. It's also lost the kick in the pants at ~5.5k. Not sure how much I miss it yet, I'll need some more ride time to say. I do expect I'll be reving it harder to make sure I'm having enough fun. I do like the look.

You sharing is appreciated. Great thing about emotions (and Italian-ness) -- some words...my mind doesn't fully understand...my stomach does. I remember a warm spring night about ten years ago - skiing a glacier under a full moon. Some waking hours are so precious they might as well be dreams. Milano: my favorite urban driving experience thus far!

I've got a couple of spare washers you're welcome to. Hard left-handers come with their own grinder!

Mine haven't died yet, but there was a previous discussion regarding possible solutions. Try here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...opic=2978&st=15

I will post the curves, and am willing to PM my maps. My experience is that my previous PCIII custom map (no airbox lid/Stucci/Ferracci cans) was money well spent. Not perfection, but significantly better. The bike would still ping if I whacked it open too quickly - even with the "accelerator pump" feature turned on. I haven't heard a price yet for individual cylinder mapping, but will ask when I bring it in. Also considering putting the airbox lid back on, the volume is a bit over the top as is. Removing and replacing the QuatD (to pull the cat) has encouraged me to fiddle with it's positioning, and I've gradually removed some of the washers I originally installed to maintain clearance. Not all gone, but it sits a bit higher now. Hats off to BFG - taking a big hammer to a pricy brand new I-talian gee-whiz bit is beyond my courage Also, for anyone else that wants to pull the cat, aluminum rivets won't cut it; use stainless steel.

I'm guessing a PCIII + proper map would be good for an even wider grin My Quat-D just lost its cat and the bike is feeling pretty lean below 5k. Not bad elsewhere, but I don't trust my butt to feel anything other than dips and bumps in the power delivery. I've just scheduled some dyno time for early May and will post the maps when done.