gstallons

i'm about remove my tank also, '02 le Mans with rubber pad on top of tank. i have a knurled round knob on the fuel petcock on left side of tank, this is the fuel shut off? mine will only turn about an eighth of a turn clockwise, then it won't turn anymore, i don't want to break it. how many revolutions should it turn 'til fuel shuts off? or am i doing something wrong? thanks, stef Stef, yes that is the shutoff valve.It (the valve) requires a lot of turns to seat and open. Purchace a small brand of Channel-lock pliers to help you to seat the valve. Mine was a booger to work the first few times.

I stopped looking at the price of fuel. I run premium and got 35mpg last Sunday on a 120 mi. spin.

I thought I saw pics of it in 3D at a bike show. Looks ultimate= no production..........

Docc, I think someone on the MGNOC website rebuilds them . You can Google the repair also. What is wrong with yours ? The fasteners should last a long time. If they scare you I'm sure Fastenal can fix you up.

First tell us if the tank has a rubber pad on top of the tank... If it does, it has the external pump. I know how this is removed... You will have to shut off the fuel supply valve, disconnect the fuel line, remove the seat, remove the rear tank mounting bolt, pick up on the fuel tank and have someone disconnect the tank low fuel indicator plug. Pick up a little more and disconnect the two small vent hoses. I don't think the 03 has the other smog hoses and dump valve? If so disconnect them also. When you go back together splice the two small hoses together because they are vents only for the fuel cap and spillage. p.s this is a two man operation!

Good post & good lookin' bike...............

Jada G ?

If you want to stop the front brake pulsation you will have to surface the rotors. I would surface all rotors if it was my bike. If you want to stop the noise you can pull the pads and scuff them up by laying a sheet of rough sandpaper on a flat surface and rubbing the friction surface of the pad til the pad has a new surface, clean this off with brake cleaner, allow to dry and reinstall.

Where is the bike located? I would think you could locate one closer................. The two bikes could not be any where close in comparison. Make sure of what you want. If you like to put around and drink espresso, the BMW is the way to go. If you like taking things apart just to look inside, your wet dreams will no longer be dreams. GET IT NOW !!!!!!!!!!!! M/G riders are a different breed. If you can listen to both Edvard Greig and Robin Trower, have problems with authority, left handed, own a Mac and enjoy pronouncing the name GUZZI to everyone who asks "a what?", take off tomorrow and go get it !

Yes, the brake caliper/rotor/brake pads is where the noise is being generated from. try applying the rear brake with your hand and have someone rotate the wheel. You can apply differing amounts of pressure to se what happens. If you can pry the cover off the cavity that contains the brake pads, try seperating them from the rotor and rotate the wheel. If the noise disappears, you have found the problem. You can Google shops that will resurface rotors if need be. This is an easy task to remove & reinstall them. MARK & index the rotor side and position when removing & reinstalling them. Always clean the mating surfaces and torque the fasteners in steps and aa crisscross(sp?)pattern so you will not warp the rotors.

When you install the new bearings, pop off the dust seal, fill the bearing FULL with wheel bearing grease, reinstall the dust seal and you will not have any more bearing trouble. Bearings come with just enough grease to keep from rusting. You can do this to bearings that do not have a high bearing speed. These bearings move a small amount rocking back & forth.Too much grease will cause a rotating bearing to heat up and you will have trouble.

The US has had headlights on a LONG time.

kecup, Pacify us and disconnect the throttle cable at the left throttle body. Start the bike and blip the throttle on the portion of the throttle body where the inner cable was attached. It should return to idle immediately. If this "fixes" it, look at the throttle barrel to see if it works on the handle bar freely. It shoul be binding.If it is loosen the two Allen head screws and get things back in place. There is no way the computer can keep the rpm up and cause this problem. Even if they screwed up the tps it should still work ok.

Purchase a mechanic's stethescope to help isolate this (and future) noise. If you do purchase wheel bearings, get the exact # replacement....... Don't just buy a 203 BCA when the part # on the bearing has a prefix and or suffix on the one coming out of the hub. These characters designate quality,bearing speed, etc.

Start swapping relays around if you do not have access to a new one. Exchange #1 with #2: if it does not start, swap them back. Exchange #1 with #3:if it does not start,swap them back. Repeat the process until you have changed all of them. You can do this any any order as long as you have swapped them all. Please put new fuses in the fuse panel too. I would hate for you to have a blown fuse. I don't know if MG has fusible links in their wiring system. I will look today.

Is there any way you can post a video of this on youtube so we can hear/see this action taking place. I am not sure if it is not the throttle hanging. I fell asleep last night is the reason I didn't call you back. How did your test ride turn out?

I am going to help. I just needed to know some things first. Can you pm your cell # and I will call you around 8 pm cst. I am going out because this is the first good day to ride !

Without knowing which continent you live on, we cannot help much.... Where do you live, what kind of $$$ tune-up was and has been done, and how long has this problem(s) existed? Did this problem come about after work was performed ? We need to know if someone has (mis)adjusted anything simple or not. You will have to go in detail about the work history or we will bounce this around all summer before helping you.

You are forgiven(this time) for not being a present owner

I would give him $500.00 to take the picture down!

Go to an automotive paint supply store. A good one will have a paint color analyzer. This will give you an exact match to the paint in it's present condition. I don't know if they will have a color or will have to mix to match. This will not be cheap, so don't have a heart attack.

The more I look at this tank, the more I want one...........a polished aluminum, a red anodized, a green anodized and a black anodized tank. Oh yeah: a blue one too. I wonder if he will give a discount to multiple purchases? Hmmmm..... that's $3600 w/o freight.... I wonder if ponti leaves his bike outside at night?

AMEN!!!!

Welcome to the club !

Ford/Motorcraft sell an electrical connector grease I use. It is part # XG-12. I use on critical plug in connectors that are outside the car's interior.