gstallons
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Posts posted by gstallons
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Good looking bike . I'd say BUY IT !
BTW , these people that put a price on it is because they know what it means to them . Don't work on them too much on the price .
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I hate to show my ignorance but , do these bikes have an open loop / closed loop built into the computer system w/the O2 sensor style system ?
On automobiles the ECM goes into closed loop when the engine is up to operating temp and the O2 sensor is hot enough to start "working".
I assume the non-O2 sensor bikes are programmed to run as is throughout the temp (cold to hot) temp range?
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Buddy , you need an impact wrench . Find a mechanic w/a battery powered impact that will break it loose for you . There is a puller that will remove it. When you reinstall , have you pal tighten it for you.
HTH
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Jaap's (used to be)bike is one of the most righteous personalized V11s I've seen .
There have been a few on this site that were so pathetic I wouldn't want in my driveway. You have to do what you think is best .
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Buddy , you are doing these things for YOU . No one else . Do it and then if you don't like it , you can go back to stock. I do my stuff for me.
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You better be glad your bike didn't hear/see this or that V11 will shift worse than a 100cc Penton.
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Have you gotten any closer to getting the bike running ?
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I have lost one TOO . we will have to both be on the lookout !
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I just want you to enjoy your enigma machine as much as possible.
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Can you post a pic of the top of your forks so we can give you the proper advice ?
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I don't think the filter or anything else in line could be causing a problem . Do install a new filter when you install a new pump. While you are at it replace all high pressure rubber fuel lines in this circuit. When you tighten the hose clamps on these lines , just get them snug and make suer the clamps are indexed so you can retighten them if necessary .
Fuel leaking from the pump means the pump is bad .
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We all should be using consumables and parts from aircraft vendors . These companies cannot afford to sell anything less than the best !
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Nope , your problem is at the terminal itself . IDK if you are working on the factory wiring or an add-on wiring harness.
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I measured a fork tube similar to yours and the lower portion (chrome lower) of the fork tube measures 43ish mm
The forks on my red frame and black frame measure 40ish mm.
You will soon realize there are no absolutes when it comes to these bikes, I found this out a long time ago when I was resealing and rebushing the forks on my 2003ish V11. Got all my stuff from Joe Eish and got everything apart to find out nothing worked. He graciously took all the wrong parts back and sent me the correct stuff. S.N.s date of production and models mean nothing here.
With that being said , someone may have crafted a new (different)front end on this bike , who knows?
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We are not allowed the courtesy of an expiration date . We must treat everyone of our friends as though we are never going to see them again .
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Mine are different . They are the early style. My red frame and black frame have the early style. IDK which are the larger tubes. I am away from the shop so I can't measure them
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The easy way to tell the difference between them is the top of the fork cap . The silver only cap is the larger fork assy. Uhhh , better yet , can you post a pic of the top of the forks ? You want to be sure,
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Have you got pics of the finished product ?
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12 hours ago, LaGrasta said:
Many OEM hoses I found listed, weren't actually available. I agree though, if I could have purchased the OEM one, I would have. At the time, I think the only place that had it was in Germany and it was like $80 plus shipping.
Interesting enough, I only paid $18, and free shipping. I see now, it cost twice that amount!
That hose is for coolant and it MIGHT not be compatible with petroleum . This may not last as long as you would want.
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You may as well buy two of these hoses , one to install and one to keep around for a spare . When you install this be sure to index the hose clamps so when you do it AGAIN and AGAIN you will have less trouble with R & R . BTW , if you go with the homemade design , keep in mind this will have to be compatible with petroleum . You may spend more time with your innovation than buying an OEM part. Don't feel like the Lone Ranger , we all have a breather tube that did/does look like this .
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Nefarious ? Ha !
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Don't worry , something else will let go and make you forget all about this problem
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There is no "cloth" woven into the rubber hose and it is typical non-Japanese quality rubber . It will deteriorate sitting on the shelf !
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No . it's factory perplex ! All you do is move the rod from one end to the other and no change, I got my stuff from Midwest Products and corrected it .
My engine is pinging when loading it, above 4000 rpm...
in Technical Topics
Posted
No , I'm good on theory , I was just wondering.
W/O2 sensor computer systems on automotive vehicles the engine coolant sensor decides when to go into closed loop and (in theory) the O2 sensor is hot enough to start determining the oxygen content of the exhaust gases. These sensors started out w/one wire , then a second wire was added to have an absolutely good ground for better reading . Then came the four wire system for the addition of a heating element to heat up the sensor for a faster closed loop engagement .
All other (early style) w/o any oxygen sensors were "closed / open loop" from beginning to end . I don't care too much for this but it was less complicated to engineer/fabricate . Being in the nascent stages , everything is simpler.