gstallons

I don't recognize that fishin' lure ?

Your last sentence says it all.

When you assemble (but not tighten) this axle bolt , does the wheel spin OK ? Why did you start working on this to begin with ?

Hmmmm. IDK ? I am sure if it were pushed up into the wrong "place" it would cause discomfort / reproductive harm before cancer.

AFA the rear brake pads , look at the friction material for greater wear on one pad v the other. I would not worry about the piston wear shown on the one pad .

So , there are no surprises , these do require a fender for the Ohlins forks . T ?

Some vendors sell USD fork oil . I have read it has special powers . Mine came w/it when I had my internals worked on and new springs. I would have to go out in the shop to see the brand / wt , etc...

You know Ohlins gold is the only way to go !

Good luck !

I am not smart enough to post a pic , so if you will , Google a Lisle 20750 remote starter tool . This is what I am referring to. You attach one lead to a 12v source and one lead to the starter solenoid tab . Make sure the transmission is in neutral ! Pushing the button will cause the starter to function or it will not function. If the starter operates , the starter is good and the problem is in the wiring circuit on the bike. If the starter does not operate , then it is bad and needs replacing. I do this for a living and It is not cost effective to mess with . Disassembling this starter will be entertaining but it will cost as much in time and parts as replacing this component with a new one.

I assume you have a remote starter button you can connect to the spade of the solenoid and to the batt terminal of the starter. Push the button to verify start / no start .

maybe

Tell me how that works for ya . To do what you are wanting to do requires removing the rear shock accumulator , then removing the starter cover to get to the start circuit wire and then the positive cable terminal at the starter. P.S. The pull and hold windings in the starter join at the terminal protruding from the starter solenoid. I would think about how this pull/hold circuit works to explain it but it has been in the HIGH 90s today and I've been out in it .

Unless you have a black frame and a red frame , you will have no idea how different two bikes can be. GMC28 , AFA $$$ That is why plastic was invented . A shock absorber of a sorts.

Well , Greenie is ready for the champagne bottle redux (again) ! List of accomplishments ; Practicing squats ! Straighten l.h.bar. Repair starter switch Replace starting motor / spray goo on flywheel teeth Replace spark plug end cap. It gave it's life to save the rest of the bike. Practicing squats. I don't want to do this type of parking lot crash again. And yes , as much as it hurt , I stood up to see how many witnessed my move !

You can get a pick and bend the tang inside the connector to tighten it up and use Deoxit , connector grease or conductivity enhancer to seal the deal.

I looked at the MG Cycle starter . before you buy it make ABSOLUTELY sure of the country of origin . No India , Pakistan or any place like that . Yuck .....

Come here where the temps are in the 90s , no wind and 125% humidity.

If it is in the circuit , it will be time to get the Royal Wiring Diagram out and start lookin' !

Well , get a pair of hemostat clamps and pull the starter engagement wire off the stater and put your test light into the wire and have someone to "crank" the bike . If the light lights up , your problem IS the starter , If there is no light , you have a circuit problem .

Uhhh . yeah .

I hope this is your V 11 you are working on ?

The # on the starting motor I removed is 26D0 0900**M The ** is where the clamp disfigured these 2 #s . The there is a D6R21 and it is above the UPC . I bought the MG-VAL3 . I could have disassembled mine ad installed a $80 starter drive but after 2 10 min sessions of continuous starter spin ., NO WAY . There are some things you don't buy looking at the lower right corner . I hope you don't buy parachutes at WalMart. This is one of those things . I put a fork in this starter for Whitney when I first met him . He thought it was the drive but it was ok. After 2 10 minute sessions of continuous starter , I am not taking chances . I may remove some things and spray Graphite lube on the flywheel teeth to quiet this thing down .

I will tell you how to fix it . You call EuroMotoElectrics tomorrow and order a new starter . They sell two different quality starter motors. Buy the OEM Valeo motor and be done with it. You want to ride not push . Their # is 1-303-526-0901. IDK their hours of operation but you can Google their website, Mine ws around $220 w/shipping . I am keeping the old one just to dismantle and look at . Two sessions of ignition switch hanging on and staying engaged w/o me knowing it until it killed the battery made this starter a dull boy.

When you say "tendon sawing" , did it cut in two pieces and the docs had to go hunting ?