cash1000

I've got same problem. Had sump off to replace gaskets in hope it cured small oil leak. When I tighten sump bolt half of thread in sump came out. Off to source a Time-sert

Just clicked over 1,000k's on Metzler Roadtec 01's. 120/70 Front & 170/60 rear. Best tyres I've hand on V11. I've run Metzler Z6, Z8 & Pirelli GT Angels. Roadtecs are stable & give neutral steering. Grip of GT's probably a bit better. In wet - not found any yet Mileage - will let you know in a year. Off to Guzzi Rally in North Island this week which will chew up 1,500ks so maybe less than a year

Any chance of some photos of how you have fitted the Givi tank bag? I've fitted one to my RM (Posted some where here)and would be interested to see how you have done it.

Replaced hose. Fun task that was. Ended up removing coils and fuel pump to get better access. Used rubber grease on inside of end's of hose and pipe. Made hose much easier to slip over end of pipe. It took 6 weeks to get hose but price was only $NZ20. Doc, if not there already, checking this hose would be a good add to the list of things to check when the tank is off.

Seeing you have tyres off rims why don't you get angled valve stems put in rims. Make sure you get the 8.3mm ones. I got mine from www.flyingmile.co.nz but I would think you can get them in USA. Makes checking pressure much easier.

Has anyone tried Metzlers Roadtec 01s? I've gone through a couple of pairs of Pirelli GT Angels and thought I would try something different

Any chance of posting a picture of bike? What brand/model of tank bag is it?

Welcome

Cleaned off oil from sump etc Friday night. Checked again Saturday oil back again. Cleaned up breather hose tightened hose clamps. Sunday cleaned up sump and went for 100 km ride. Checked for any oil leaks and there where none. Success? Maybe. Got fingers crossed. New hose on order current one showing signs of cracking. Will be in stock in a couple of weeks. Meanwhile off to Dunedin (400ks) this weekend to see family. Did trip up to Blenheim via Kaikoura Quake coast a couple of weeks ago with leak so should be ok. Still getting dirt of bike - lots of road works. www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyNjMnUkhww. Not my pictures.

Thanks Doc.Hose on mine is covered with oil so hoping its that

Hi Marty As it happens I have got a pair of gaskets but thanks for the offer. Hi Doc Are we talking about the hose that runs from front underneath of main frame to back of the motor? Part no 30157400.

Looks like I've got an oil leak to sort out. Its leaving spots of oil on ground and burning on exhaust. Strange its happened as gaskets were replaced a couple of years ago when I put Roper plate in.

Can these electrical problems be passed from bike to bike after our 2 bikes co-habitating in the same garage for a few hours?

Back to work today groan. Still to shorts t-shirt & sandels better than business clothes. Many thanks to Marty for sorting out horn & taco. Simple solution to a problem that been around for a while. While we were at it we checked over rest of electrics and found micro switch on front brake had died(again) and oil pressure sensor had also died (again). So order placed with Peter Kelly at Moto Kiwi. Also many thanks to other users for their suggestions.

Hi Marty Many thanks for the offer I will PM you. Also I know a far winder way into town so won't be asleep when I get to your place Nigel

Mmmm Blew 15amp ignition fuse (4th from front) when I disconnected right side horn. Replaced fuse. Bike goes now but horn, rev counter & head light don't go. Thoughts?

Happy New Year Many thanks for the suggestions. I've been chasing my brother on his Yamaha MT09 around the Canterbury roads here in NZ for the last few days so not had much time to respond. There are 2 problems that I think are linked and are intermittent. 1. Horn won't go sometimes. It sometimes works with only key on; others with motor going at 1,000 rpm; Other times with motor going at 3,000 rpm; most of time not at all. Guy who puts bike through for warrant of fitness each year has put hard word on me to fix it. 2. Rev counter won't go at idle, with revs it will go. But occasionally won't go at all. Last time ,3 months ago, I cleaned contacts on battery, relays & fuses and got it going again. 3. When horn doesn't go it affects rev counter. Press horn button and rev counter with drop about 2,000 revs. If you hold button down for a few seconds revs will drop to zero. Battery - With ignition off 12.7; With motor idling 12.7; With motor at 3,000 rpm 13.9. Rectifyier - Bike has non standard one. No identifying writing on it. I'm not that electrically competent so please keep suggestions simple. I replaced horns a few years ago with ones very similar to originals. Thought I had solved problem for a few days but no. I've just disconnected horns. Firstly disconnected left hand one - no effect. Then disconnected right had one - now bike doesn't go - no lights fuel pump etc nothing. Now waiting for bike to cool down before reconnecting horns. Not wanting to get burnt on exhaust headers! Relays - I'm using Narava p/no 68062 (not Omron as I thought). Where to from here?

Merry Christmas. I've got a long standing electrical problem that as I've got a few days off on holiday I though I would have a crack at fixing. At times the horn on my 2001 V11 RM doesn't go. During the course of a ride it make go or just squeak or not go at all. When you push the horn button and it doesn't go you can see the rev counter needle drop. Sometimes back to zero other times a couple of thousand revs. When the horn does go it doesn't affect the rev counter. Sometimes the rev counter may not go at all. When the rev counter doesn't go the motor will occasionally briefly cut out. I'm thinking this may be the fuel pump cutting out. When the motor is idling the rev counter may indicate zero revs but if you apply some revs the rev counter will go. To try a solve this I've cleaned the battery terminals, replaced all the fuses and cleaned contacts. Relays have been replaced with Omron ones. Is it the ignition switch? I cleaned it a couple of years ago but is it due for another clean? Any thoughts on what cause could be? Many thanks for any suggestions you may have.

Can any body give me the dimensions of the Racetech tool? I think I will have a go at building one.

Spring to strong for amazon home made spring compressor. Got a trip away this weekend so not got time to get racetech spring compressor so had to take forks to bike shop to change seals & oil. The Racetech tool would be good to get if a few V11 owners got together and shared cost. Anyone in NZ interested?

I get the idea. I've got everything here to make this so should be good. Doc - maybe new springs are a lot firmer than originals.

I need to replace fork seals as one is leaking. I've cant remove the caps because I can't access the blue hexagonal rod. The forks have been revalved and resprung using Racetech parts so inner parts of forks probably not original. The preload pipe can't be pulled away from the cap so you can get a spanner on it but you can see the blue rod through a hole in the spacer. There is a bolt with an 8mm hex head that screws vertically into the base of the fork leg. Undoing it maybe the solution. This doesn't appear on Guzzi parts diagram. Has anyone got any suggestions how I remove the cap?

Hi Marty Thanks for the offer. I will contact you. My thoughts would be to lower it so its flat and is flush with level of the tank and fuel door and get it painted. Doesn't need to be magnetic so Aluminuim alloy would be fine.I use a Givi tankbag that's attached to the outer ring of the fuel door. Replacing the pad how I describe would lower the tank bag and make it easier to ride with.

I would like to get rid off mine. Maybe replace it with something made out if sheet steel. I've found it a nuisinace when mounting tank bags. I would what the replacement one to be a lot flatter. It would need someone with good skills in working with sheet steel. Any ideas anyone?

I've got to replace the left hand fork seal as its leaking. (Dripping on ground) I've tried cleaning seal with no success.I think its past that. The workshop manual specfies SAE10 weight oil. What is this in fork oil grade 7.5? 10? Also I had the forks revalved and new springs using Racetech products. When I dismantle the forks how different are they going to be to that shown in the workshop manual? The local Guzzi dealer can supply the oil seals over night but the dust seals will have to come from Italy which is at least 3 weeks delivery time. Do I have to replace the dust seals?