cash1000
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Posts posted by cash1000
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Misting over Gear box was happening before the gearbox saga (Link ? don't go there)
I've read somewhere on here of some gearbox oils causing gearbox leaks. I had also noticed the Penrite oil had reduced in thickness from what I had used before.
So I put 2 & 2 together.
Yes a leak or mist could be reason clutch is slipping.
So theory is replace oil to one I've used before with no problems.
If problems still occur where to from there ......
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Has anyone else used Penrite gearoil in their gear box?
GEAR OIL 80W-90 (Mineral) | Penrite Oil
By process of elimination I think it is causing oil to mist over the back of my RM's gear box and the clutch to slip.
Clutch slip goes away once I've travelled 20 odd k's.
Going to change back to Spectro oil I was using before.
Motorcycle Hypoid Gear Lubricant - Spectro Performance Oils (spectro-oils.com)
I would use redline but no one local supplies it.
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Did mine at weekend (Thanks for the lend of the Manometer MartyNZ). Runs heaps better. I know now not to unscrew the knob on left hand side. Rod unhooks on right hand side
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At last RM is back in 1 piece and running
. What a saga. From trying to fit gearbox with clutch plate the wrong way around (Cases don't meet by about 5mm); Not being able to bleed clutch due to screw on lever being wound in to far; Waiting for Clutch master kit to arrive (That in end I didn't need); Gearbox leaking due to water in box after I washed it prior to painting (Gearbox came out again to get joints resealed). Taking gearbox out again to get screws holding slave cylinder removed after they jammed. Learnt heap's. Many thanks for everybody's help.
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4 hours ago, audiomick said:
One wouldn't have to hit it very hard to get a permanent mark, but yeah, ok. Alternatives that don't stress any bearings or what have you: a light touch with a drill or something along those lines.
Just thinking in terms of a mark that is still there should the paint flake off.
I get what you mean. I'm thinking of possible fragile nature of single plate clutch flywheels.
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2 hours ago, audiomick said:
The quick and easy solution for you is, I reckon, find the TDC positions, and put a paint spot on the flywheel (maybe two different colours or something...) in a suitable spot visible through the sight hole.
Since the gearbox is out, and you wrote that the original markings are not really legible anymore, you might also be able to use a centre punch to put a permanent mark in the appropriate positions.
Thinking a punch maybe a bit aggresive but a dot of paint. Yes good idea. Otherwise totally go with what you are saying
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6 hours ago, Pressureangle said:
Are the flywheel bolts symmetrical on the crank? Many manufacturers offset one hole so you can't change the orientation even if you want to.
Yes they are so you can fit flywheel in any of 6 positions
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Does the position of the flywheel on the crankshaft affect the running of a V11 motor?
If flywheel is not in correct position I know that the S & T marks won’t be in correct position but that won’t affect running of motor. When I had the flywheel crack tested the caulk mark was mostly wiped off. I used what I thought was the mark when I reinstalled flywheel. As I’ve got the gearbox out I thought I should check. I’ve found instructions for flywheel position in Dave Richard’s Guzziology.
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Thanks. Good thinking. Will double check tonight. Got tank, seat & airbox off so will be easy to check. But in short time engine was running level in g/b sight glass when from full to bottom of glass. Smell of g/b fluid was strong to.
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Yes,Yes, Glad I'm not alone
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Other problem still to solve is oil leak from upper back of gearbox.
It's a generous leak so looks like gearbox is coming out again - oh goody
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Took Bosch spark plugs out.
They looking very dark
Replaced them with NGK's BPR6ES's.
Running a bit better but still needs use of choke & throttle to idle. (not good)
What would cause it to run so lean. Something changed during reassembly?
This is weird for a bike that was running well before gearbox problem.
Also has an oil leak from rear left hand side of gearbox. As in its dripping on to exhaust under g/b. Was gearbox sealed properly or is leak from elsewhere. I will replace g/b oil to check I've filled with correct amount. If overfull it could be being spat out.
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On 4/17/2023 at 4:36 PM, MartyNZ said:
I have a manometer I could loan, but I'm out on Stewart Island for 2 weeks.
I would love to go there. Thank's MartyNZ. I will see how I go with Docs Tune up list.
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38 minutes ago, docc said:
That 1/2" fuel line ought to slip right on and a good hose clamp take up that extra 0.028" . . .
Back on the road and time for a "Decent Tune-up!"
Good idea
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RM lives all but a bit roughly
. I had to remove rod between fuel injection units to remove gearbox. I'm thinking these need synconising. I know someone who has the tool to do it. Went with the 12.7mm fuel line. I know Repco have a reel of 12mm selling for $1,500 which is a bit much qty & $. Will ask & see what they can do
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15 hours ago, docc said:
Same here in The States finding 12mm fuel line. I would be nervous running fuel through heater hose.
What about 1/2" fuel line. I've used that and it tightens right up. Just taking up slightly over a half millimeter?
Be certain to give it some sort of heat shield, as well . . .
Heater hose been thrown out.
Got some 12.7mm fuel hose. Will give that ago tonight.
Been on a few wild goose chases with this. Found what is advertised as 12mm is actually 12.7mm (1/2 inch). Weird NZ has been metric for 30 years yet still get stuff in inches.
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14 hours ago, docc said:
Down to the wire, then @cash1000!
Considering where you have been with this project over the last three months, I would say, "You've got this!"
While many of us could swap out that fuel line (and keep it short enough to groom up and away from the cylinder head heat), I realize that later fuel pumps might be mounted above the spine which would require the tank removal. I reckon this is your case?
So close. 12mm ID fuel line is not easy to get here in NZ. Got some heater hose that will do in short term.
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Been away on holiday. Got V11 all back together last night. Now I find the fuel hose has a spilt in it at the pump end
(Its not original. That was replaced years ago)
So tank & seat off again & find some 12mm fuel hose
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Photo was from a few years ago so before saga started. But hopefully will have bike back together & going tonight 🤞
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Problem solved. Adjustor on clutch lever had backed itself in blocking holes in base of clutch fluid reservoir
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After getting shattered bearing in gearbox replaced I found clutch wouldn’t work. So tried to bleed fluid as line hadn’t been attached to slave cylinder. When pumping clutch leaver I found there was very little fluid coming out. So ok master cylinder has failed so got a kit for it from Aussie. Gave it to a mechanic to do. He fitted kit but still couldn’t pump fluid through. There was no damage to the old kit parts. Clutch was working fine before gearbox problem. I had clutch line disconnected from slave cylinder because I couldn’t remove it from back of gearbox. Any thoughts on what is going on?
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On 1/12/2023 at 8:14 AM, LaGrasta said:
Newly acquired vehicles always have me and a can of slippery-squirt spray all hinges, keyholes, buttons, etc. Give it a try.
What's slippery-squirt?
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Many Thanks Doc. I've just used your info to source a kit from Australia from Gowanloch
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The saga continues
Using syringe method I was able to inject brake fluid from slave to master cylinder.
Trying to pump fluid back the other way not so good. Very little fluid being pumped through.
Thinking I need to put a rebuild kit into Clutch master cylinder.
Teflon tape didn't work so well so under advice from Speed Bleeder guys I've resealed with Permatex high Performance Thread Sealant. It's a 72 hour set time so still waiting. They supply their own sealant but easier for me to get the Permatex stuff
Gearbox Oil
in Technical Topics
Posted
Area around vent hose looks dry but from what you say it could be the cause of both problems. Think I will go with oil I know