cash1000
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Posts posted by cash1000
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15 hours ago, footgoose said:
the RAM replacement. Not that different from the OEM aluminum (RAM made that one too) but lightened steel flywheel and better friction plate. I was lucky to get this just before they stopped selling this kit.
It looks the same as mine
When you installed it did you spilt flywheel & clutch? Photos/
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2 hours ago, docc said:
The twin plate toothed crown wheel looks different. Seems when I unbolted mine the clutch internals/springs came out easily. Seems the single plate is different in this regard?
Yours is quite different.
This is the view of mine through the inspection hole on right side of motor
I wonder if its typical of the single plate clutch V11
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I wasn't able to get clutch & flywheel out last night. Its to tight to remove by hand.
Thinking I could use a 3 leg puller
Thoughts?
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Got toothed crown off last night
It looks fine
Photos of both side
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20 minutes ago, docc said:
The actual flywheel (#7) bolts are seen, below, as #9 and obscured beneath the "Toothed Crown"/ #10.
The Toothed Crown fasteners (#12) "Allen head type" are not the concern . . .
Thank for the Drawing Doc. So 10 is only the outer layer. The workshop manual mentions alignment marks to use when reassembling normal clutch/flywheel (Needed to ensure timing is correct?). Are there going to be the same for the RM clutch/flywheel? I will be watching out for them and taking plenty of photos
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45 minutes ago, docc said:
So, this image is not the concerning junction of the aluminum flywheel with the back of the crankshaft. What we are looking at here is the "toothed wheel" or "toothed crown" / C:
The actual flywheel is beneath (forward of) the clutch assembly and bolted to the back of the crankshaft. That is the area of fail concern on the aluminum flywheels.
(The actual flywheel and the flywheel bolts to the crankshaft are not seen in these images.)
Yet . . . are those visible cracks around the circumference of the "toothed wheel/crown?"
Yes the toothed crown is what the starter motor acts on. I will check for cracks tonight
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3 hours ago, MartyNZ said:
Well yes, any metric grade 10.9 bolt would do if it has: -
Rolled, not cut threads
A section of plain shank to fit the hole snugly
A head size that doesn't interfere with the clutch.
The genuine MG part has already taken care of these considerations, and I see MG Cycle sells them for $1.68 ea. Since it's standard on lots of models, I'd ask Motokiwi for a price.
Bolts on RM are an allen head type but yes they will need replacing
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On 12/30/2022 at 7:24 AM, docc said:
The nefarious fractured sliding dog ("hose")?
Is your Rosso Mandello in that recall range, @cash1000?
Yes it is. 20 years a bit late to claim on it? Any idea if I can find out if it's been done?
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15 hours ago, MartyNZ said:
I've got the alternator off my bike at the moment. You are welcome to come over to look and see how little it will help with accessing the clutch.
BTW, the manual says "Screws “B” (flywheel bolts) must be replaced with new ones upon the following reassembly, due to the high load and stresses they are subject to; (apply thread locking product, Loctite, medium strength, to the screws and tighten to torques of Nm 40 ÷ 42)."
P/N GU12067701 Qty 6.
Good point about the screws. I wonder if they are Guzzi specfic or are available from any good fastners supplier
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18 hours ago, docc said:
I did not have to remove the alternator (at the front of the engine) to dismantle the clutch and flywheel.
Good call to have a close look (dye inspection?) of your Rosso Mandello aluminum flywheel. Might as well unbolt the flywheel from the crank and (dye) inspect its forward surface. Make time to see to the common leak points. "Once and done."
Have you found a RAM replacement clutch/flywheel unit?
No not yet. One step at a time. Picked up locking tool last night. So planning on opening up clutch tonight
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Before I decide what I'm doing with the gearbox I want to see what condition the Clutch/plate & Flywheel are in.
The workshop manual says to remove the alternator first. Any idea why you need to do this? I've borrowed Locking Tool A and with a RAM clutch being 1 piece you don't need Tool B
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On 9/14/2021 at 10:49 AM, Lucky Phil said:
If you mean "Guzzi specific tooling" there is only 1 and that's the flywheel holding tool which is cheap to buy and needed when torqueing up the flywheel bolts. Maybe a clutch plate alignment tool for the twin platers. Not necessary on a RAM single plate unit. The rest is just std tooling. Even buying a few special tools is a lot cheaper and easier than taking it to a Mechanic.
Ciao
Why don't you need a clutch plate alignment tool if you have a RAM single plate unit?
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Vince had no problem dismantling the gearbox
Unfortunalty he found a bearing had failed
Concern is has debris from bearing damaged other bearings
Need to decide whether I get Vince to rebuild gearbox or find a 2nd hand box
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I'm off to talk to Vince Burrell about the gearbox who runs Guzzi Cafe near home. I think he only works on pre V11 Guzzis but worth the visit.
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4 hours ago, pete roper said:
Really? That's weird. I get PM'd all the time.
No matter email me at.
motomoda
dot
roper
@
gmail
dot
com
Yes it is.
I've messaged Doc about it no problem
I've just emailed you about gearbox
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Hi Pete Roper
How do I contact you?
Your profile is set to not receive personnel messages
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Input shaft rotates freely in neutral & 1/4 turn when in gear. Output shaft only moves 3 teeth in any gear. Its differcult to change select gears above 2nd. Conclusion damage is in gearbox. Is it worth taking rear cover of g/b off to see if damage is in there?
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Got gearbox out yesterday after pulling 1/2 the bike to bits. Will try Petes suggestion of trying to rotate input & output shafts in all gears to determine if gearbox damaged
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Thanks Doc for that. Didn't realise you needed to tilt motor. Nearly there. Got black frame tubing behind g/b to remove. Only problem so far is 2 of 3 screws holding grimca clutch m/c have seized. Will detach tubing instead
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I'm about to start removing the gearbox.
Anything special I need to watch out for?
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While securing bike last remaining dregs of oil drained out of gear box leaving this swaff behind
Not good
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Swing arm out
Front universal joint out
Unfortunatley it looks and rotates fine
Next step secure bike so it won't fall over (It's on stand that it was on during Christchurch earthquakes so I'm just being careful)
Then tomorrow remove gearbox
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35 minutes ago, pete roper said:
With the driveshaft? It is aligned correctly isn't it? While a misaligned driveshaft itself won't cause the wheel to lock the forces imposed by the trunnions not being correctly aligned is certainly enough to bust stuff up.
I had driveshaft apart 6 months ago when I greased front grease nipple. I thought I put it back correctly. Will never know for certain now.
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15 hours ago, MartyNZ said:
I have a 1 tonne chain hoist and straps you can use to secure the bike steering yoke to a beam.
Thanks I think I'm good
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Driveshaft/Gearbox
in Technical Topics
Posted
At last got Clutch & Flywheel out. Clutch took some gentle persuading with a pry bay.
No visible damage to either but will get flywheel crack tested