Kiwi_Roy

Getting the tank past the seat surround is the hardest part Step 1 remove the seat surround (6 screws, 2 small ones underneath) Step 2 take a short length of 2 x 4 (11 - 11-1/2") and a suitable lever, pryer, tire iron Step 3 place 2 x 4 against rear of tank (behind the bolt hole) Step 4 lever the tank forward using the frame tube behind the ECU as a fulcrum point. You may also need a screwdriver or something to line up the captive nut You may have to remove the ECU or battery to give more clearence

That's brilliant Coreytrevor How did you ensure it syphoned back faster than the pump delivered it? How did you fasten it in the tank I tried to lever the tank back on with no success, it's been difficult before. I contemplated moving the rubber front support further forward, I think that would be easy enough. Tonight I will remove the seat cowell, that's what it's having trouble clearing Perhaps we need to make some metal bracing to stop it growing like a strap from each front cup to the rear screw hole. Sell it as a kit.

The gas on the right still won't transfer by itself so I should still get the warning eh How long does it take for an ethanol distorted tank to grow back? I assume it's not enough to just switch to ethanol free gas. Sent from my shoe phone!

As you all know the fuel tank has a dead area on the RH side, the pump sucks from the left but returns to the right. If out of fuel you can tilt the bike to transfer fuel from R to L but the pump quickly returns it. I had my tank off over the weekend and thought about this. It's possible to swap the fuel return to where the fuel level sensor currently resides, this would circulate fuel back to where the pump can reach it. The fuel level hole is a little too large for the regulator but a simple plate would fix that, the smaller hole on the right could be reamed to fit the sensor. Then I got to think about another way, leave the return on the right but install an internal pipe to throw the returning fuel back over the hump. I installed a bit of 5/16 brake line with a right angle bend at the top pointing towards the Left Sorry I haven't figured out posting pictures since PB kidnapped mine. Basically 7" to rt angle bend, Flare on the bottom to jamb inside the flange with an "O" ring to seal. If I run out I should have some fuel trapped on the right I can slosh over the hump and with smooth riding it should stay there. Now if I can just get the tank back on

So there is a connector for the cam position sensor. I was looking for that.

That's a fair price, should go pretty quick Nice bike

I can't post links from here but I stumbled across an interesting post from Bill D http://archive.guzzitech.com/PhaseSensFail-Bill_D.html In particular paragraph 4 This gives a good diagnosis of the sensor failure, he noticed the Tach dropped off and backfiring even though the motor was still spinning, I thought that was brilliant. I'm sure Bill won't mind me linking to it here.

Czakky - Lets get the Fiat part No in there as well before putting it in the cross reference There has to be more fiat dealerships than Alfa Romeo http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/8484462/magnetimarelli-sen813.html If you scroll down on that page it shows a bunch of Sku numbers related to different cars, I will try those over the weekend. Scroll even further it lists the vehicles it was used on

Yes I saw the listing on Yoyo parts, I'm not convinced they actually have one though I ended up ordering one from Boonstra Parts in Holland Off an MV Augusta Brutale 750, the Guzzi has to be happy about that.

Spent a fruitless afternoon checking out the dealers The Auto wrecker would only sell me a complete engine The Fiat dealer wanted the Vin number Also checked a couple of after market parts shops The Ducati guy had a picture but their sensor was held by just one screw None of the above could cross reference the Magneti Marelli part No SEN-813 Still, I had a good ride on the old Eldo, you don't get that shopping on-line

Never mind, I googled SEN813 and found it Fiat, Lancia, Alffa Romeo I think Ducati use it also Update - the parts guy showed me a picture it had just one screw hole hard to seal the oil in I think - Roy Copied from another forum http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRANKSHAFT-SENSOR-ALFA-ROMEO-145-146-1-4-FIAT-Tempra-Tipo-1-8-LANCIA-/251703577340? This is the exact same part mine arrived quickly direct fit £24.96 as opposed to over £130 from Guzzi I had to really look hard for it I have told the seller and he is going to add the Bike OR SEN-813 to make it easier to find this sensor is fitted to a whole load of Guzzis V11 series and all these Fits Moto Guzzi Quota 1100, V11 Sport ALL, 1100 Sport IE, 1100 Sport Corsa, Bellagio, Breva ALL, Bellagio, Cali EV, Cali Jackal, Cali Stone, Cali Special, Cali Vintage, Centauro, Daytona RS, Griso ALL, MGS-01, 1200 Sport ALL, Norge ALL, Stelvio, V7 Classic, V7 Cafe, V7 Racer, V7 Stone, V7 Special, Nevada 750 (2004-2013) Phase Sensor I think I will take a trip to the local auto wrecker, I might be able to find the mating 3 pin connector as well.

I am getting ready for a trip and want to purchase a spare crank sensor, I figure its the one part of the ignition you cannot jury rig. Can someone tell me the Automotive equivalent like which make and model uses it? For anyone who has changed the sensor, how did you connect it to the ECU, according to the schematics it seems to be wired directly to the ECU connector. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif item (53) Or is the plug 1,2,3 hidden somewhere ib the loom?

Thanks, I will try to do it next week, probably edit the text as well Sent from my shoe phone!

Docc I am so pissed with photobucket there is no chance of me posting the ransom they demand. I thought I would hold my nose and sign up for a year but my browser (I Mac) is so old it craps out Is there any chance of setting up this site so the images can be permanently attached? We don't need such high resolution

Is there any chance of including a picture of the original spring in place as a reference? Thanks Roy

John, I expect the fairgrounds is pretty much booked out, I think we will be camping on a farm outside town but I will try to swing by.

Bump A friend and I will ride down to John Day and camp Sunday evening. J.D. Is pretty much on the path. Sent from my shoe phone!

Did you ever solve the noisy fuel pump issue? If you have an electric petcock (chrome thing hanging down under tank) if the coil is open circuit I believe the pump will be able to suck it open but will be extra noisy. I recommend strapping the two wires to the body with a ty-wrap so they don't break off where they emerge from the epoxy.

If you look closely at this schematic you will see that the ECU and all the important stuff like injectors is supported by just 3 wires from the rest of the bike. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif The wire with the connector 58 is just the signal to the tacho, it's not important. The red wire feeding Fuse 1 & Fuse 2 is obviously important. The most interesting one is the one running through connector 57, see how it goes directly to the coil of relay 49 (the ECU Relay) The other side of the coil is grounded through the 1N4007 diode. (this diode prevents anything bad happening if you accidentally put the battery in with the polarity reversed) When you turn the key On if the stars are aligned the relay 49 is energized closing the contacts feeding power from Fuse 1 to the ECU and also to the coil of relay 46, the other side of this relay 46 coil is grounded through the ECU pin 19 so that relay also closes putting power on the injectors, ignition coils and the fuel pump which starts to whirr. After a couple of seconds the ECU thinks "I'm not receiving pulses from the rotation sensor 53" and un-grounds the coil of relay 46 stopping the fuel pump. If the engine starts to crank over the rotation sensor sends pulses to the ECU which wakes up and again grounds out pin 19 causing Relay 46 to again power up the fuel pump and sparks etc. causing the motor to start and run. Now suppose you turn the key On and no power passes through the connector 57 to the coil of the ECU relay 57, the bikes not going to start in 100 years. Suppose also the bike is running but the power to connector 57 is erratic, the relay 49 is going to drop out causing the ECU to have a fit. Lets back up and see what comes before the connector. First of all the Ignition switch is fed from Fuse 4 to terminals I & K, the table shows which contacts are made in the 4 positions Park, Lock Off and On In the On position stand switch 40, the relay 15, Neutral light and the Start relay 23 get power. If either the Stand switch or the Stand relay are closed power goes to the Kill switch and the bike should crank over. BTW the contact is missing on the Kill Switch, just imagine the two contacts are connected by the Run contact. Look at the Start button then trace the wire down through a bullet connector 60, out to the clutch switch 17 and back through another bullet connector 60 then to the Start relay 23 It's really just a collection of simple circuits.

Doesn't look like my greeney at all, great job. Sent from my shoe phone!

You can test all the sensors from the ECU connector. I'll send you the sketch. Sent from my shoe phone! Update Why did I think you were testing sensors? I read that somewhere. For painting black frame parts Por15 is great, apply it with a brush and it smooths out better than a rattle can finish, I did the frame on my Eldorado, looks like a powder coat job.

Yes, I noticed, his famous clock sculpture is on loan, sitting out on the street near my office, I was blown away when I bumped into it.

Spanner, can't be from around here LOL Sent from my shoe phone!

The regulators I have dissected are set at 13.8 Volts, the bike picks up another ~0.5 through drop in the headlight relay, more if it's an earlier one because the headlight relay was fed through the start relay. Something to try is unplug the male/female connector and turn it so only the black regulator wire is connected, if the warning light still comes On it's a short to chassis in its wiring. IMHO the light is pretty useless as it will only work if the regulator is ok Sent from my shoe phone!

Wow, I love what you have done with your bike. Welcome to the forum.