Kiwi_Roy

My monies on the Idiot lights Bugtarget, you can narrow it down a bit by unplugging the different connectors then putting them back one at a time. This Schematic is close enough http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif Unplug the headlight relay (34), i'm pretty sure that will clear the fault With the relay back in See the Red/Black wire going to connector (8) unplugging it will disconnect the idiot lights The Red /Black wire also goes the the LH dimmer switch and the two brake switches. It also went to the Voltage regulator on earlier models. Those idiot light sockets are crap, some lamps short them out, I always throw them away and install 12V LEDs

Well I guess I did the right thing for once, I traded in my greenie for a Griso 2007 I will say one thing though the shock absorber in the rear wheel of the VII works much better than what the Griso has riding along slow with neutral throttle it bangs and clangs away something awful, its fine under power. I don't know that i want an 8 Valve though, the thought of that little roller whizzing around the cam would worry me to death LOL

I don't think it will be in the tail light, that's fuse 6 Unless it's in the stop light but that wouldn't blow until the brake is applied. More likely to be in the idiot lights , you haven't replaced any of those bulbs have you? Some lamps short out the holders because the wire touches both contacts. I have always advocated using type 194 LEDs without a holder Yes, a lamp in place of the fuse is the best method of finding a short, I use an old headlamp bulb with a couple of wires soldered on, it can supply more current to liven up the circuit normally. It flashes at you every time you create the short.

That's hard to understand, with the key Off relay 5 should be open so nothing on the coils Even if the key was left on Relay 5 should be open Something is wrong in the wiring for sure.

The coil shouldn't be grounded long enough to overheat. When the bike is running you have +12 on one end of the coils The ECU briefly grounds the other end. Something is wrong with the ECU or you have a ground fault.

Could it be the relay socket needs to be tightened up, I posted a sketch how to get them out. Another possibility is the contacts aren't clicked into place properly and not making reliable contact.

Here's the schematic http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif A Red / Black goes to one side of both coils, this is + 12 Volts straight from the Power relay, it also feeds both injectors and the pump. A Green wire goes from one coil to the ECU connector pin 20 A Green/Black from the other coil to the ECU connector pin 14 These pins are only held to ground (chassis) for a split second each cycle Pins 23 and 24 are connected by a black wire to battery Negative for this purpose. I'm guessing you have a short on one of the wires holding the coil grounded either that or a bad ECU If you unplug the ECU and turn the key On you should measure +12 on both pins and the coil shouldn't show any sign of heat because there should be no current flowing in it. Looking at my drawing V11 Sport ECU Test points I see the resistance of each coil I measured at 0.7 Ohms so you can see it will get hot quickly with 17 Amps flowing continuously. Using your Ohmeter measure from the 87 socket of relay 5 to 20 and 14 of the ECU socket, should see 0.7 in both cases. Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will send you the drawing.

You have never rid a real Guzzi til you've rid a loop There's nothing like barreling along at 100 mph then realizing you need to stop. But referring to them in the same breath as old Harleys That's fighting talk

The spring winds it back to the closed throttle position.

It will not hurt to leave it loose both mine were as well but it can't fall out, held in bug gravity. It's a thermistor normay kept cool by the fuel. When the fu level drops it rapidly heats up becoming lower and lower in resistance until the lamp turns on. If you look closely you will see tiny slots which allow the fuel in and out but won't allow a flame to pass if it burns out. Evr. Sent from my shoe phone!

Resistor leads were a problem on my EV, they opened up at the coil end causing a bad miss under acceleration. Check your leads and coils by measuring the resistance from plug cap to chassis, should be identical on both sides, about 8k I think. Sent from my shoe phone!

Sold it Actually last Saturday I put 3 Guzzis up for sale the greenie California II and Latio, guy and his wife came by and bought all three. I now have 07 Greaso and my old 72 Eldorado. I will pop in now and then to keep an eye on you guys. Sent from my shoe phone!

So stepping back a bit, Is the fuel pump re-starting when the bike cranks over? Do you have the correct plug lead on each cylinder? Have you confirmed you have about 45 psi on the injectors while cranking? With a timing light I think you should see a timing mark on the flywheel under the rubber plug.

See previous post That seems to rule out that possibility then.

How do you check for that? Obviously can only happen if you've had the cogs out Sent from my shoe phone!

You'll have to ask Luigi that, there's nothing wrong with single phase, many other motorcycles use it also including some Harleys. I think 3 phase is probably the most efficient use of space but don't quote me. Three phase certainly leads to a much smoother DC.

The diodes inside the regulator are quite large but the solder holding the lead on melts letting go then it starts arcing. The first one I was able to re-solder and it operated for another couple of years The 30 amp fuses don't blow, they heat up and melt the plastic because of contact resistance in the fuse holder.

The regulator has very little internal resistance, just 2 SCRs and 2 diodes in a bridge, for a half cycle the circuit is Alternator coil, yellow wire, diode, red wire, battery +, battery -, chassis, regulator case, SCR, other yellow back to the other end of the coils We know that when spinning the alternator open circuit can easily reach 80 Volts I think the limiting factor current wise is the inductive reactance of the windings.

Don't forget that part of the cycle the alternator is putting out less than the battery Voltage so there is no current flowing the 350 Watts is the average Wattage, I suspect the peak is 40 Amps or more, that's whats so hard on the fuse holder. "Current wouldn't be the problem anyway. The voltage is the problem. Above 14V it will severly start gasing, running at a high risk to relieve the pressure and to dry out (call it ageing). So you better keep the voltage below 14V (13.8 says the battery's label). That just a side note." The regulators I have pulled apart have all been set at 13.8 Volts, the problem is it doesn't measure the battery at the terminals it measures 13.8 downstream of the headlight relay so the poor battery has to put out well over 14 Volts before the regulator is happy. (unless you have added headlight relays direct from the battery) It's easy to check the Voltage drop, measure from the battery Positive terminal to the black wire at the regulator (don't need the bike running for this) My bike measured anything from 0.5 to 1 Volt, it's an 01 with two relay contacts in series with the headlight. Reseat the Start and Headlight relays and it drops back down to ~0.5 Volts I decided this was too flakey for me and fitted a direct connect style regulator Remember the regulator doesn't set the battery Voltage, it sets the Voltage between the black wire and its case, it does a great job of setting the headlight Voltage, not so great at setting the battery Voltage. I mentioned after market headlight relays, they divert the current from the OEM headlight relay, with very little current the Voltage drop is near zero, that's Ohms Law I think this is an interesting discussion, there's bugger all else happening at the moment

As Guzzi3Go says If the regulator thinks the battery is at 13 Volts when in fact it's much higher it will just keep pumping the Amps to it. The Voltage reference is what lets the regulator down, too much Voltage across the headlight relay. The Voltage drop in the headlight circuit should normally be ~0.5 Volts but I have seen mine over 1 Volt after sitting all winter, just caused by resistance in the relay contacts. I have pulled several regulators apart and found the leads melted off the diodes with signs of arcing.

Suppose you have a battery half charged. If you apply a Voltage and ramp it slowly up the current will remain at zero until the Voltage reaches 13 or so Volts 13.5 might cause 1 amp to flow but 14 Volts will cause a lot more than 2 14.5 will cause several times the current than 13.5, that's what I meant by exponential. My terminology might not be scientifically correct but then I'm not a scientist I'm a humble journeyman with only 50 years of gathered experience. Sorry

Roy, what I know is that a MOSFET might theoretically be switchable from On to Off whenever some circuit wants it, differently to Tyristors (SCRs), but practically there's no way to do it. While the RDS(on) (switched fully On) of a MOSFET is rather low, its resistance when switched Off naturally is rather high. Now guess what happens when you try to switch Off a MOSFET under high loads/currents, means rise the resistance from zero to unlimited at maybe 30 Amps. As said above, theoretically this might be possible, practically it usually leads to sudden smell and smoke. Then switching under load is also a bad idea when you have to reach certain EMC goals. These usually are not negotiable. Don't know how it is with computers, vehicle electronics are always build on the lowest possible edge, that means the smallest and cheapest parts available, no reserves to fool with. Ahh, don't tell the manufacturers of Variable speed drives that MOSFETs aren't switchable, they do it all the time at about 20 KHz, before that they used to switch SCRs by reducing the current to zero so they turned off. Having said that I do agree the manufacturers of simple Voltage regulators probably don't spend too much on the hardware. I was an apprentice when the first SCR based variable speed drives came out and I've taken a keen interest in the technology ever since. Before I got into Guzzi the majority of modern motorcycle regulators were shunt type 3 phase units with SCRs to shunt out the coils, I imagine they have been replaced by MOSFETs or something else by now.

I think I posted it somewhere else. I had the tank off the other day and looking at the fuel return to the RH side of the tank (pressure relief valve) I took an L shaped length of automotive brake pipe, 5/16" I think and fastened it into the return valve so it squirts the returning fuel over the hump to the LH side. I figure now if I run out on the left I can tip the bike over so the trapped fuel runs from Right to Left where the pump can grab it.

Sorry, it may be open to interpretation but the Ducati Energia active components (Silicon Controlled Rectifiers) are connected in series with the alternator to battery passing every bit of current the alternator can produce, they open like a light switch when the battery Voltage is sufficient allowing the alternator Voltage to go to 60 + Volts, They are connected in a classic bridge with 2 diodes and 2 SCRs. Once turned On the SCR can only turn off at the end of the current cycle, The battery acts like a large capacitor to smooth out the ripples. I think you may be confusing the regulator with a series linear one where a transistor is turned on more or less to pass current like a variable resistor (producing heat) SCRs are either On or Off, nothing in between A shunt regulator typically has 4 or 6 diodes connected in a bridge with SCRs across the windings to short them out when the battery has enough Voltage The Shindengen probably uses MOSFET transistors which can be turned from full On to Full Off off mid cycle like the switch mode regulator in a computer I suspect the Electrosports are more like the Shindengen ones with MOSFET transistors rather than SCRs as the active component, they wouldn't tell me when I asked. MOSFETs are more efficient than SCRs that have been around much longer.

The regulator sets the Voltage between the black wire and the case to 13.8 Volts. So just suppose the regulator is not grounded properly and the case is 1 Volt above chassis, then the regulator is set at 13.8 in relation to the case but 14.8 in relation to chassis. Years ago I took the time to pull a few regulators apart and draw out the internal circuit, I used to have it posted here but I can send you a copy if you PM me with your e-mail addy IMHO the regulator is a good design but it's let down badly by the Guzzi wiring. The usual fault is one of the diodes overheats and the wire melts off. I think this is a result of the flakey Voltage reference. If you increase the Voltage to a battery the current goes up exponentially.