Kiwi_Roy

I would be surprised if you have more than 15 or 20 psi when hot at idle, stick a gauge on there it's the only way to get any confidence. My other guzzis operate at 60# when cold, drop down as low as 10 when idling hot but pop back up to 60# with speed. Eldorado, California II & VII Sport all similar. Tap in where the pressure switch goes or the oil line to either head.

On the early systems it was connected to the manifold as shown, http://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf The Efiman document is worth it's weight in gold when trying to understand the fuel injection. Although Its written for an earlier system 95% of it is still applicable.

Not saving your changes perhaps, I don't know the software but that catches me all the time with other packages. Sent from my shoe phone!

There are several things that will stop the battery charging as others have mentioned but since the tach is playing up I suspect the headlight is also playing up, have someone ride ahead and watch your light in his mirror. The headlight relay supplies the tachometer and the regulator Voltage reference. Relay 1 and relay 2 are in the headlight circuit. The Start relay (#1) must be a 5 pin. Sent from my shoe phone!

I just cut the wire near the ECU and put in a M/Fm spade connector. A while back I figured I would try changing the Voltage while riding to see what effect it had on a wide band fuel sensor. Sent from my shoe phone!

That's why I set the idle using both screws otherwise idle is different each time you blip the throttle, worn linkages I guess I came up with my own procedure 1/ Close both throttles, linkage removed 2/ Turn in each screw until it just grips a strip of paper on each throttle, this is my zero point 150 mV on TPS 3/ Wind in the RH idle screw until I see the right mV (is it 450, I forget) on the TPS while counting how many flats I turn the allen key. 4/ Wind in the LH idle screw the same No of flats, I figure both butterflies are now evenly open. 5/ Put back the linkage adjusting the length so it doesn't open either butterfly 6/ Open Air bleeds 1 or 1-1/2 turns (both the same) 7/ Check balance with a "U" tube with oil, it usually needs a little tweak on one air bleed or if too far off a tiny adjustment to one of the idle stops Now the bike should be idling at the right speed and will recover after a blip of the throttle. 8/ Set high speed balance with the white knob, it should be only a fraction off, if it upsets the idle you've done something wrong. It's a while since I last did mine, don't shoot me if I missed a step.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-1-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/197/ Click on the specifications tab you will see there Operating Voltage 12 VAC/9~14.5 VDC they have a bridge rectifier in the base, you can see the diodes in the 360 degree view. The nice thing is you don't even have to think about getting the polarity right. I usually carry one with a few feet of wire on for troubleshooting instead of taking a multimeter. Update - Yes pick any that say Polarity Sensitive = No

The switches are useless. If you want to confirm you have oil pressure crack the oil fitting on one head you will find it bleeds like a stuck pig with 60 psi behind it. I have a 0-100 psi gauge on each of my Guzzis, they always work.

The fuel light should last an awful long time, incandescents normally blow at the instant of turn on when the filament is cold and the inrush current is high. The fuel light turns on slowly and never sees full Voltage. If you don't want the high beam light too bright put a large value resistor in series like 50k The direction indicator idiot is another special case, Because LEDs are polarity sensitive you need to use a couple of diodes or I prefer the www.SuperbrightLEDs.com type 194 single LED wedge base because they have diodes built in and they also have a nice flange that makes them easy to glue in place. Use the lamp same colour as the bezel. Check out the lamps in their motorcycle section, I bought some nice driving lights. Don't use the lamp sockets T3 25S-SP though, they lose contract with the lamp with any strain at all on the wires, just solder the wires directly to the lamp, they will outlast you.

The helicoil repair is a stainless steel thread, I believe it's stronger than the original thread into soft aluminum. I read somewhere that aircraft have helicoils installed from day one, can anyone verify that?

I rode her to the national at John Day, a friend offered me a near new Breva 750 in exchange, thought about it for a nanosecond. I've been running a Cliff Jefferies ECU but I think I may look for a regular one and get up to speed with Guzzi Diag

One came up for sale here, I felt obliged to buy it. pretty high mileage I think, Tupperware is all cracked. Not bad to ride but at the point where it needs major work so I'll probably just move it along after fixing a few things

When I say the accuracy is not that important I mean one or 2 psi is not going the make the difference between a motor that will run or not. Fuel flow through a given orifice is proportional to the square of the pressure drop (to double the flow you have to square the pressure difference) so one psi makes just a tiny change. I think injectors run under choked flow so that the manifold pressure doesn't have any effect, I don't know that for certain it's just a theory I came up with. Early FI systems tubed the regulator reference fitting to the manifold, this must have resulted in a fuel pressure all over the map

Not very, at least it doesn't have to be super accurate. Injectors run under what's known as choked flow.

There's a wide range there Tom, can you remember which part No you used for the coils / ECU Thanks Roy

If the tach stops working there's a good chance the regulator is not getting a Voltage reference (not charging), they share the same wire. Try changing out the start relay and the headlight relay.

Also check the 30 Amp fuse if you have one for any sign of discolouration. Is the headlight On? Is the tach working normally Check the yellow wire bullet connectors, are they discoloured? If you have a meter with the diode test function test with (meter red lead) on each yellow of the regulator to the red wire (black meter lead)

Jerry, "Startus Interuptus" is caused by too much Voltage drop in the solenoid circuit, The MPH fix cures that by bypassing the ignition switch, other owners simply snip the yellow wire going to pin 3 of the relay and splice a new hot to the relay end. I have a theory the factory don't even know about "SI" they only work on bikes with pristine components and their starter diagram bears no resemblance to reality. The VII ignition switch is really easy to remove and clean I don't know about the Norge The early VIIs like my 2001 never suffered because the start relay was wired from a dedicated fuse http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif Later VIIs suffer like all modern Guzzis from silly wiring. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif Trace the wire from terminal 30 of the start relay back to the battery, you will see the difference Early bikes will still start with switches measuring 10 - 20 Ohms because the heavy current by-passes the switch.

Of course the starter might have shed it's magnets but I don't think that will cause the fuse to blow. I really don't think Luigi considered the heavy current through the Pull In coil when he selected a 15 Amp fuse, I'm surmising he put his multimeter in series with the spade connector, pressed the start and measured 11 Amps and figured a 15 Amp fuse was adequate. Really it should have a 20 Amp fuse. Heres what I measured on my EV, same components. TThere's quite a bit of wiring on the EV, I did this test to prove how much better it works when the solenoid current doesn't have to pass through the ignition switch, the current went up by 5 Amps but the time dropped in half. I have a storage scope but sketching the waveform was quicker. The curve on top of the trace is caused by the solenoid plunger movement.

I like the internal pump system because it keeps the external plumbing way tidier and neater. Ciao I looked at it once, it seemed to me adding an internal pipe from the regulator nozzle to send the gas over the hump would be the way to go, it would look the same from outside. I don't know how you would anchor it though, perhaps to the filler. I agree the in tank pump is a much better solution, you can use a reed switch and float to alarm low level instead of the thermistor. I still think one of us should be able to come up with a good solution.

But it's in the back of a truck, how humiliating for a greeny Pod filters Mistral cans - the finest kind. Like mine But note It still has an electric petcock HaHa

Phill, Why do you think the petcock is stupid? I have had 3, they always worked. Granted they don't need to turn off I have heard the wires snap off but that's easily avoidable with a ty-wrap I guess I have no good reason for retaining the petcock but it's a nice bit of bling. It's electric, I like all things electric LOL Perhaps we can brainstorm up a good way to modify the plumbing, the RH side could act like a reserve

External pump VIIs I have often though it would be a good idea to somehow pipe the return line over to the left hand side, it's kind of silly to have a reserve of gas on the right and not be able to use it. You can stop and lean the bike over to transfer it to the left but the pump will immediately throw it back again at 26 gallons per hour. Has anyone come up with a solution for this? Perhaps swap the fuel return nozzle with the fuel level one.? Return it to the pump suction? Small pump tank with a gravity feed from the main tank? BTW, I think the electric petcock is the greatest thing since sliced bread LOL

All this talk about bearings and spacers, I'll bring it up again My 72 Eldorado at 130,000 miles has what I'm sure are the original tapered rollers with proper seals. why can't modern Guzzis have the same? We are lucky if the ball races last the life of a tire

Re-enforce it with a thin aluminium sheet drilled like a Swiss cheese held in place by JB weld or Bondo The aluminium spreads the stress over a larger area rather than having it concentrated around the hole.