Kiwi_Roy

I like the internal pump system because it keeps the external plumbing way tidier and neater. Ciao I looked at it once, it seemed to me adding an internal pipe from the regulator nozzle to send the gas over the hump would be the way to go, it would look the same from outside. I don't know how you would anchor it though, perhaps to the filler. I agree the in tank pump is a much better solution, you can use a reed switch and float to alarm low level instead of the thermistor. I still think one of us should be able to come up with a good solution.

But it's in the back of a truck, how humiliating for a greeny Pod filters Mistral cans - the finest kind. Like mine But note It still has an electric petcock HaHa

Phill, Why do you think the petcock is stupid? I have had 3, they always worked. Granted they don't need to turn off I have heard the wires snap off but that's easily avoidable with a ty-wrap I guess I have no good reason for retaining the petcock but it's a nice bit of bling. It's electric, I like all things electric LOL Perhaps we can brainstorm up a good way to modify the plumbing, the RH side could act like a reserve

External pump VIIs I have often though it would be a good idea to somehow pipe the return line over to the left hand side, it's kind of silly to have a reserve of gas on the right and not be able to use it. You can stop and lean the bike over to transfer it to the left but the pump will immediately throw it back again at 26 gallons per hour. Has anyone come up with a solution for this? Perhaps swap the fuel return nozzle with the fuel level one.? Return it to the pump suction? Small pump tank with a gravity feed from the main tank? BTW, I think the electric petcock is the greatest thing since sliced bread LOL

All this talk about bearings and spacers, I'll bring it up again My 72 Eldorado at 130,000 miles has what I'm sure are the original tapered rollers with proper seals. why can't modern Guzzis have the same? We are lucky if the ball races last the life of a tire

Re-enforce it with a thin aluminium sheet drilled like a Swiss cheese held in place by JB weld or Bondo The aluminium spreads the stress over a larger area rather than having it concentrated around the hole.

I bought an EV in Denver and rode it back to BC, next trip the front bearing made a squark. Dry as a bone inside. I had to ride another 60 miles like that, so I dribbled a bit of oil into the bearing with a straw.

Since they are unobtainable keep the old one, I'm sure someone here can sleeve it, perhaps to use some readily available parts.

Yea! Sent from my shoe phone!

To empty out the gearbox is not such a difficult job and I'm sure you have lots of fine welders with the difficulty of importing spares.

Too Rich,what would cause that? Leaking injector, they would both have to leak Can you borrow a pair ECU holding them open too long Temperature sensor showing cold - I think you said you measured those TPS way off - measure mV at idle, loosen it off and try it all over, it may run better at some point Bad map This can happen if a download goes wrong, ask me how I know Any others? Fuel pressure too high, forces more fuel through per opening time Regulator not plumbed right making the pump relieve at 75 psi not 45 This would show as a high current, measure Amps on relay 5 base 30 to 87 with the key Off (pump will run) You say too rich based on what. exhaust? Something else to try Pull off each plug cap and measure resistance from cap to chassis, both sides should be the same, I'm guessing around 8K Ohms

I can see a pair of 3-1/4" Speedhuts on the horizon. Save some money and get a pulse input speedo Eagles on the front, reset button at the back I'll make you a pulser.

SP838 Yes, if you short out the side-stand contacts you have also shorted out the relay contacts 30 - 87 the relay is completely useless, does nothing, perhaps re-purpose it as a horn relay, use some decent size wire on the contacts though, tiny is ok from the button to coil. It should be called the Neutral relay, it's operated by the neutral switch (called the Idle switch on some schematics) not the stand switch. I have always been a bit hesitant to modify the loom because how do you document the changes for the next owner, he inherits a bike with no schematic and tears his hair out. Make a photocopy of the comic and attach it to the manual.

I'm guessing the horns draw about 5 amps but that's not the issue you need a low impedance source to really make the horns respond. It's like a speaker after all. The EV comes with a horn relay as standard , makes sort of a squeak but wiring my own relay made the horns twice as loud, sort of like a Startus Interuptus fix for the horns. Try it with a length of wire from the battery, you will see what sort of improvement you get, decide then if it's worth while. The pair of Fiaams come with a relay.

MartyNZ says you need 12 Volts, that gave me a thought, suppose there is something on your bike limiting the amount of current available to make opening unreliable, Is fuse 5 in good order / clips tight?, measure the voltage on the red/black wire (relay 5 87) while the pump is running. It's something simple I'm sure. Good ground on the ECU?, wire from 23 & 24 to battery negative, that, pulls the injector open by grounding one side. Anything sound unusual while the pump primes? Might be time to measure the pressure, the manual I linked shows how. One thing the manual shows incorrectly is a tube on the regulator reference to the manifold DONT DO THAT. I think that must have been an early idea. The ECU map allows for pressure changes. BTW the injectors put out the same amount of fuel no matter what the manifold pressure , they operate at what's called "choked flow", downstream pressure has no effect. That's how they can calculate fuel consumption on the later bikes, just by injector open time.

The warning about only using 6 Volts is straight from the Magneti Marelli manual, I don't understand why. True, the ECU is 12 Volts but only for milliseconds at the time, they may be worried that someone leaves it on for 10 minutes, 12 Watts may burn out such a small coil. BTW, I found the Fuel Injector manual again, download it as a pdf while it's available. www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf

I copied this out of the injector manual, did you manage to find it on line (PM sent) Injectors The injectors control the amount of fuel delivered to the engine. The injector is an ON-OFF valve. It has just two operating modes, open or closed. The injector consists of a shell and a pin forming part of the magnetic armature. This pin is pressed up against its seat by a spiral spring whose load is determined by an adjustable push ring. The winding is housed in the rear part of the casing while the injector nose is at the front (seal seating and pin guide). The control impulses from the computer create a magnetic field which attracts the armature and thus opens the injector. The amount of fuel injected depends solely on the amount of time the injector is open, assuming constant fuel viscosity and density, and constant pressure differential. This time is established by the computer depending on the engine’s operating environment. When the fuel pressure is in the range of 34-40 psi, the jet breaks into a spray as soon as it leaves the nozzle and forms an arc of approximately 30°. Resistance value: 12Ω. If you want to test the injector electrically, apply a maximum of 6 volts for an extremely short period of time.

May we ask how you cleaned them? Perhaps you need some new ones. I think you checked the polarity on the pump. Try my suggestion of sucking the fuel out of a can to check there's fuel flow, just cause it to prime a few times see if it sucks the level down. Here's how you can make a meter shunt to read the current with a millivolt meter.

Horn Relays as per Docc is a great idea. I was really impressed by the Fiaam horns that came with my California II, I couldn't find the exact ones but I found a pair of Fiaam Freeway Blasters, a Hi and Lo tone ~$35 from Canadian tire stores, they are super loud if you use the relay supplied and a decent wire from the battery. Some Guzzis eg the EV come with a horn relay but the tiny wires strangle the horns. Make sure you mount them so they are self draining,

Is it possible to cross the connectors to the injectors? It would probably still run but might - I dunno Did you set the timing sensor gap to allow for the new "O" ring It's not possible to see fuel returning from the pressure regulator but if you pull the fuel line off the petcock and dip it in a tin of gas it should suck it empty in a few seconds proving the fuel must be returning to tank. http://www.dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf The link is broken to this manual, it's getting harder and harder to find, we need it on this site Docc? Here's what the manual says about the pump Delivery: 26.5 gal/hour at 44 psi with 12V power supply. The pump draws about 4.5 amps. If you put the wires on backwards the pump will run backwards, who knows if it will pump properly - -check the polarity Measure the current draw, take out relay 5 and put an ammeter between 30 and 87, the pump will run with the key Off. With no power to the ECU only the pump will draw current, anything different from 4.5 Amps might point to it running backwards or over pressure, from memory it draws about 9 Amps when it's relieving at 70 psi.

There are lots of soldered joints in the loom, everywhere you see two wires Tee together on the schematic chances are if you open the loom you will find wires twisted together and soldered very well and taped up. I agree with Chuck though soldered on lugs the wires will break with any vibration or movement, for example the wires in the ignition switch, they need to be immobilized by attaching to the back cover.

I'm a fan of using LEDs in the dash, I like being able to see them in bright sunlight. Sent from my shoe phone!

You mention black smoke, perhaps it's too rich what could cause that? Excess fuel pressure perhaps, are you sure you have the pressure regulator plumbed correctly? If the regulator is blocked off the pressure goes from 40+ to over 70 also makes the pump extra noisy. You didn't by chance put a hose on the regulator vent (small spigot sticking out) did you? With the throttle closed the TPS Voltage should be around 400 mV from memory, perhaps you could loosen it off and try moving it back and forth to see if you can get it to run. It could also be starving for fuel at anything over idle but I don't know why, try the old fuel filter back on. I had an EV with the filter completely plugged, it would start ok but had no power. Unfortunately with the in tank regulator it's not possible to see the fuel returning to the tank, it should be a full pipe, I think 5-10 gallons per minute. Google the Efiman document it's a gold mine of information regarding the fuel injection even though it's written for a P8 it still applies. That's all the ideas I have.

As Docc says try cleaning the ignition switch, just remove the two Phillips screws from below to release the switch block Remove the back and tilt out the white plate, wipe all the old grease from the contacts and replace it with fresh Vaseline. When you put the switch back together try to fasten the cable to the back cover so the wires are unable to twist inside or they will break off. To test just the starter run a temporary wire from the spade connector on the solenoid and touch it on battery Positive Make sure the bike is in Neutral and hold the clutch in for good measure or you will launch it.

Then obviously I am wrong about the Voltage drop adding to the regulator Voltage. I did some testing on the bench and found the regulator stopped firing the regulator rectifiers at 13.8 Volts and assumed thats what it would charge too. Yes I estimated my headlight was about 20% brighter.