Kiwi_Roy

The yellow connectors can be replaced but be prepared to change them out again, butt splices are more secure. These regulators have to have a good ground connection to the case. A short No 12 from the case to a timing cover bolt is far better than a No 8 all the way to the battery. Have you determined your old regulator is U/S, perhaps it's just the yellow connectors. Sent from my shoe phone!

What's the point of promoting a product that's not available? Petroleum Jelly may not be the best available product but it is readily available and 100 times better than not using anything at all. I don't mean to argue but I've found it to be quite adequate for the last 50 years. Cheers Roy

Prostrate Cancer HaHa, I did it again. I thought I got it right last year.

I think you will find it mounted between the horns. It may be bolted to the horn bracket which is a poor ground, consider running a separate wire from the case to a timing cover screw. It's very important to have a good ground.

Is anyone taking part in the ride to raise money for Prostrate Cancer Research riding my 72 Eldorado I'll be taking part in the Langley BC ride if you feel like making a donation it goes to the foundation in your home country http://www.gentlemansride.com/sponsor/?kw=roy%20matson I'll be looking something like this LOL

The headlight relay powers up the tach. The start relay Normally closed contact powers up the headlight relay If either relay is starting to play up you may be losing power to the tach causing it to bounce. Buy all 5 pin relays, that way any relay will work in any spot. Another source is Digikey part No Z2247-ND (Omron G8HN-1C2T-R-DC12) Ok with the dash lights

I believe the ground is all on the outside, hopefully it's just a loose connection, it might be easiest just to add an extra wire to the chassis. You could also try changing out the headlight relay and Start relay just in-case it's starting to go bad. Remember your Start relay must be a 5 pin

I expect DC4 must be better than Vaseline for anywhere hot. As you say paint won't stick to anything touched with Silicone, I worked for a short while in a VW wheel plant, they banned the stuff, Sent from my shoe phone!

For the record I have never had a bad experience with silicone grease because I have never used it. Several guys on here who I respect have spoken out against it, that's good enough for me. It's supposed to be good for spark plug caps. I have never used Craigs DeOxit but I would have bought a can to try except there are several different kinds and it's expensive. I was taught to use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on contacts and batteries over 50 years ago, it's never let me down. I use it also on wires before I crimp them if it's a wet area, it stops the copper oxidizing. MartyNZ, if DC4 is approved for aircraft one would assume it's been well tested, you will find out and let us know?

No, it's the nut that holds the throttle Sent from my shoe phone!

Plus 1 on the Tekno bags, I can pick up the rear of the bike using the brackets. My bags are pretty faded though, any good fix for that? Sent from my shoe phone!

No, that's what I do, your upper lip is very sensitive, I'm not trying to burn you LOL

I suspect it's the higher current, after running for a while pull the relay and touch the 30 & 87 pin on your lip that will show if one's getting too hot. Sent from my shoe phone!

The schematics all depict the TPS as a simple potentiometer, It's not. It doesn't Ohm out like a normal potentiometer. I suspect it has another set of resistors that cause it to default to a fixed mV value if the slider loses contact. You can buy a Hall Effect device now to replace the TPS (no sliding contact to wear out)

Wrap nod end of a small gauge wire around the 87 pin of the pump relay run the other end to a small lamp taped to the bars, a flickering lamp will get your attention. It may well be something else but the little lamp will eliminate one possible cause. If it were a TPS wouldn't it show up measuring the millivolts without the bike running?

Have you bypassed the side stand switch? Cleaned the ignition switch? Do both cylinders cut out? Sent from my shoe phone!

They are 3.8 L per US gallon, I read it every day on the urinal. I work with process engineers they always think in m3 or US gallons, I haven't used imperial gallons in 20 years. Sent from my shoe phone!

You need to make sure the low fuel light works first of all. I trust mine, it starts out turning on and off as the fuel sloshes around, by the time it's on steady I figure I have 40k or 30 miles left. According to the manual the tank capacity is 23 Litres (6 US gallons) with a reserve about 4. BTW, welcome to the forum, I have a 2001 VII also, green of course.

Yes, good idea to do the driveshaft at the mileage I doubt it's ever been done, Luigi is famous for being stingy with the grease, The easiest way to do that IMHO is remove it so to get at the front universal. Careful putting it back so the pinch bolt doesn't strip itself on the gearbox shaft. There should be a paint mark on the splines, that has to be lined up when put back. I believe I use Dot 3 brake fluid, whatever brand comes to hand, Dot 4 may be better ????? By the end of all that you will have learnt a few more curse words but can bask in the glory of a job well done.

I may be wrong about the size of the hole, I haven't had mine apart but the hole should be uncovered when the piston is all the way back (lever out) the seal moves further than the hole so it's able to vent any pressure or re-fill with fluid. Sometimes you get a little bit of corrosion in the cylinder, I guess from moisture that could plug it. I had one bike that sat for 30 years the fluid turned to crystals like wet sugar. Fluid is Hydroscopic it will absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Perhaps just start by flushing the old fluid out, pull the lever into the bar, while holding it there open the bleed valve at the rear of gearbox (slave cylinder), you will get about a teaspoon of dirty fluid come out. While still holding the lever in to the bar close the bleed valve then let the lever out this should suck fresh fluid from the reservoir into the master cylinder, Repeat several times until the fluid coming out is nice and clean. Keep the reservoir topped up with fresh fluid to avoid sucking air or you may have more work than you bargained for. It's best to put a ring spanner on the bleed valve (10mm I think) then slip a length of plastic tube on the nipple and into a bottle. Be very careful not to get fluid on the paint work, it will strip paint off in seconds. The slave cylinder is awkward to get at but I think you can do it without removing the back wheel. Good Luck

As Phil says check the easy stuff first it's very unlikely to be a major problem. There's a tiny hole in the master cylinder designed to balance the pressure if that becomes blocked it could account for the slip when hot. The lever should have a little bit of play before you feel it starting to build up pressure, if not the hole is blocked, you may be able to see it if you remove the reservoir, about the size of 10 Amp fuse wire. Sent from my shoe phone!

Scud, Do you think it's the master cylinder adjustment, not letting the fluid back out when released? Is there an adjustment for that?

Andy, The most likely place for a broken wire is around the steering head where it is constantly bending back and forth, copper work hardens and becomes brittle. To find a fault like that pull hard on each wire in turn, about 20 lb, if the copper is broken the insulation will stretch.

No - I think someone has added a double adapter Sent from my shoe phone!

Someone suffered from "Startus Interuptus" so added a second button direct from the battery. There should be just a single spade connector there, take the wire off.