Kiwi_Roy

My VII Sport is naked as the day it was born, I'm thinking I might benefit from some sort of a screen on the John Day trip but I don't have time to source one. Would someone with a fly screen make me a pattern so I can knock one up out of aluminum I guess I'll need dimensions and some idea of the brackets also. Thanks Roy PS Hopefully better than the one I made for the EV last time I was in John Day, LOL Never Mind, I found an image I can copy. I must warn you, it won't be pretty.

That all makes sense to me, thanks KR Sent from my shoe phone!

Meanwhile back on the other forum they are busy debating the merits of linked brakes. The general consensus seems to be they are good. My Eldorado had twin leading shoes on the front and a drum on rear. The front brake on it's own is pretty useless but in combination with the rear it's surprisingly good. The flying brick I bought in New Zealand had the exact same small square pads on the back, they were down to the metal fortunately my Bro has a 96 California, first of the FI bikes, I was able to get the half used ones off his bike when he replaced the pads. I don't believe the flying brick or the VII sport have linked brakes. I believe the rear brakes on the Eldorado and my California II are much more effective than those on the VII Sport, something to do with the height to wheelbase ratio.

That's just what I was thinking

Yes you have a couple of options A/ Fit a reed switch with float and use the SW option. See MG Cycle part No 29103050 or make your own from a reed, small length of tube, a cork and a tiny magnet. If you didn't have the in tank pump it's a bit harder to get a switch into the tank thru the small hole where the thermistor fits, option B is ruled out altogether. B/ Get one of the float type sender units to match one of the resistor options 100, 250, 510 or 1200 Ohms and mount it on the pump or cover plate it will light up the 6 segment level displays as the float moves. This would be too cool. Find an old sender at local auto wrecker?

Perhaps I should explain the regulator doesn't control the battery Voltage directly, it controls the Voltage on the wire going to the headlight about half way along the tank to about 13.8 Volts. The battery sees 13.8 plus whatever Voltage drop happens to be thru the relay contacts. With the headlight load ~4.5 Amps the drop is about 0.6 Volts so 13.8 + 0.6 = 14.4 Without the headlight load (off or aftermarket headlight relays) the current thru the headlight wire is near zero so there is no Voltage drop and the battery only sees 13.8 Volts. It's possible to boost the battery back up again by dropping Voltage in the reference wire so the regulator is fooled. Sent from my shoe phone!

13.8 Volts would be consistent with no load on the headlight circuit, headlight turned Off or fed directly from the battery thru after market relays. The Voltage drop I've observed between battery and reference point is ~ 0.6 V, if you add that to 13.8 it works out around 14.4 at the battery. Measure from battery + to the black wire on the regulator to get the Voltage Drop and get back to us. The regulator and OEM wiring does a great job of controlling the headlight Voltage, it's not so good at charging the battery.

Ok. I went to the Koso Nth America site and downloaded the instructions It appears you have a model TNT-015 http://kosonorthamerica.com/instructions/BA035160.pdf Section 4-3 describes the fuel gauge. it's designed to work with the float / rheostat type of sender but it will also work with a switch (setting SW) This could be a float/reed switch like some Guzzi models use or you might be able to get the sensor to pick up a relay instead of the lamp or as well as the lamp. The relay coils are similar in resistance to the lamp when hot, they both draw around 100 mA Do you have an internal or external fuel pump?

Stewgnu. The link you posted doesn't specify what you bought. If it's a unit with a digital display it wont work with the normal point level thermistor type, you need a variable resistor type for those.

Do you still have the stand switch, I've heard it will bounce at some revs Sent from my shoe phone!

Scud, The bike has an after market Electrosport ESR-510 regulator with short battery leads, I chose to extend the yellow alternator leads instead since some Voltage drop in those is ok. I;m probably paranoid about Voltage drop between the regulator and battery but Electrosport refused to divulge what type of regulator it is, series or shunt. I had it mounted where the air box belonged, now it's just above the filter (on top on the box). I may chose to put it back where it belongs if I ever put the top back on the air-box until then it's filling up some wasted space. BTW I came to realize that the bike is fitted with nice bell mouth velocity stacks, just that they are hidden inside the air-box.

Took off the pods and re-fitted the airbox, made a bracket for the regulator to mount over the air filter under the tank. I think I might take the old girl to John Day.

If you lower the Voltage to the lamps they won't be as bright, I don't have this on my bike because I seldom ride at night, I will do a little test and get back. Footgoose, I just have a pencil iron, I find using a pair of forceps to clamp the wire to the lamp while I solder it helps greatly, melting the wires into the plastic makes it stronger. The old lamp is just soldered to the LED with a couple of short wires. It's very unlikely it will burn out, if it does the LED will come On Not a very good picture but you can see the lamp with it's red leads, glass is covered in white heat shrink. The little bit of current drawn by the LED is insignificant compared to the incandescent. Later as promised, a pair of red LEDs The RH one at full 12 Volts The LH one at around 6 Volts via a pair of 1K resistors as a Voltage divider, it would be very easy to add a switch to have Day / Night setting. Lamps like the fuel level and flashers not so easy to dim but IMHO they should stay full brightness anyway. I think the High beam and the Neutral lights are the only ones that might need a dimmer the others shouldn't be on, well perhaps the flasher.

I have LEDs on mine, they are visible in bright sunlight, the fuel level is a special case, it needs the load the original lamp provides. I soldered an old lamp in parallel and tucked it out of sight. Others have complained the LEDs are too bright at night, you can take care of that by having a Day/Night Voltage setting on the lamp supply https://www.superbrightleds.com Look for type 194 https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/wled-g-90/ WLED-x-90 x = colour to match the filter The nice thing about this particular lamp is it's AC/DC so you don't have to worry about polarity Don't use lamp-holders just solder the wires right to the lamp.

Never had a problem with the "O" ring. A lot of owners myself included put a hose clamp on the filter to ensure it will never loosen off. Good news is you don't need a new filter every oil change. Sent from my shoe phone!

Just looking at 3 versions of VII they all have the relay 3 contacts in parallel with stand switch Sidestand Switch ----|---------------| |---------------|-----------------> To Kill switch and Start button | | |---------------| |---------------| Neutral Relay 30 / 87

Woa, someone who can read an electrickery comic Good detective work Camn

The sidestand switch is doomed to fail eventually probably at the most inconvenient time, so best be prepared. If you look at the wiring the relay contacts 30 & 87 are in parallel with the stand switch, it's just a matter of wrapping a strand of bare wire around the two relay pins or leaving the relay out and stuffing a wire in the 30 & 87 sockets. Some Guzzis have a different stand switch and use the relay contacts 30 & 87a, just a matter of looking into the socket to see where it has metal contacts The Neutral light doesn't need the relay. Like others I was reluctant to do away with the stand switch but it failed so it's not going back, from now on it's just like my 3 other Guzzis with no stand interlock. I may use the relay for the horn or something useful. If you make alterations to the wiring for goodness sake make a note on the schematic for the next owner, we are only caretakers for these magnificent beasts.

About 5 inches from bottom (higher = earlier) Yes the metal can must be grounded Sent from my shoe phone!

Looking at the sump and the position the plate occupies it's hard to see how it works way up there, is it by allowing the oil level to be raised without it thrashing around with the crank? I have a pressure gauge on mine, I note it only starves if I let the level get below full. Sent from my shoe phone!

Steve's correct the lamp draw is important also, an LED doesn't draw enough. Post a link to the dash you have and I will see if I can. make sense of it. Sent from my shoe phone!

The reference Voltage needs to be a switched source otherwise it will run the battery flat in a few days. Lately I've been suggesting the ECU relay, another option would be a dedicated relay. If the sidestand interlock has been bypassed it's relay is going to waste. The reason the headlight relay source gives so much trouble the current draw is quite high and the Voltage drop can become inconsistent. Sent from my shoe phone!

The small square pads last no time at all, mine were down to the metal when I got the bike. The ones shown here should at least last as long as the front. Sent from my shoe phone!

That looks great! Can you provide a link to the parts

That's the one I have, No 2 at the very bottom If you scan through the pdf you will see Italian and English is used on the pages with pictures, German & French on a page by itself. If you have the better pdf software remove all the German/French pages before you print it out and save paper/ink.