Kiwi_Roy

I get banned from the lounge when that show is on. Sent from my shoe phone!

Ok, I see you adjust the CO trim for good idle, thanks for pointing out the great information. For homework tonight I measured the sensor gap with a bead of JBQuick on the sensor, bang on 0.7mm so that's at the lower limit As an exercise I may pack it out to 0.9 to see if it makes any difference BTW the sensor on my bike is Magnetti Marreli SEN 813

So Guzzidiag sets the CO, how does that work there is nothing in the ECU to measure O2 or CO I thought you would need to be hooked up to a fancy analyzer. Marty, Our apartment is built on the Penitentiary Reserve, we are just behind the old gatehouse, fortunately the stone walls have been removed and I am free to come and go as I please.

Thanks for that Marty, I will check the sensor gap ASAP, bit of a task as the timing cover will have to come. I might try to measure it first with the digital calipers. The TPS is easy enough to check again. Intake rubbers eh, perhaps I should get a pair on order

I'm currently running a MyEcu from Cliff Jefferies so no Guzzidiag capability, I might be able to get it using the backup ECU Docc, it's been a while but as I said the bike has always done it I have never had the CO trim checked Paradisso, I will check the gap, what's it supposed to be? Is the timing/phase sensor 01721600 a common automotive device? It's almost like it fires early the cough is really quite pronounced

I took my VII Sport out of mothballs over the weekend and rode it to the nationals in John Day. This bike has always had a sneeze which causes it to suddenly stall at idle, it ticks over pretty good at about 1100 revs then after a few seconds sort of sneezes and stalls. By holding the throttle open a bit more it's able to spin through the sneeze. On the long trip down and back I thought I could also detect it happening under power. I don't think it is any better or worse when hot. I have tried a different ECU Replaced the timing chain and tensioner Any thoughts as to what might be causing this annoying occurrence, it spoils an otherwise pleasant bike. Thanks, Roy

The grease goes hard like chewing gum and holds the contacts apart. When I first had trouble with mine it measured 18 Ohms, with fresh Vaseline back down to zero. We don't have as much trouble as other Guzzi owners that have the start relay powered through the ignition switch, it only takes 0.5 Ohms to stop one of those. BTW it's easy to measure the ignition switch contacts because they are wired to points under the seat The hot wire is connected to the load side (near side) of fuse 4 One of the contacts comes back to fuse 6 & 7 (near side) The other switch contact goes to far side of relay 3 (30 contact) Near side assumes you are standing on the left side of bike If anyone wants a copy of my sketches send me a PM with your e mail address BTW, don't leave the contacts dry, they will soon wear away if you do, the Vaseline lubricates the metal to metal contact point.

I was there with my green VII Sport, I thought for sure I'd bump into some of you guys. John Day that was

It's nothing more than a dirty ignition switch or perhaps wire broken off it. The small lamp goes because it's on a different contact of the switch. Sent from my shoe phone!

Yes but are there any nasty chemicals involved? I'm thinking about something easy to obtain like Scud's washing Soda. The plating metal should be ok since it is electroplated from the anode to cathode, it's what's in the bath that I am wondering about. Sent from my shoe phone!

I think Stu is on to it, as the tire wears down they start to follow every little crack in the road. Sent from my shoe phone!

Gstallons said,"It's strictly for foreplay" Oh no! I'll never be able to touch the fast idle lever again.

That's a great tip, I've often thought about trying to plate things like nuts and bolts (not chrome just something to mitigate rust), any ideas there? Sent from my shoe phone!

Check your tachometer at one of the synchronous speeds under a fluorescent light, something rotating like the alternator will appear to stand still at 900, 1200, 1800 revs due to the strobe effect. 750 & 1500 for those with 50 Hz power. If you have a frequency counter hook onto the yellow alternator wires and divide by 7 Sent from my shoe phone!

Garage sales a great place to find fine tools I picked up an old egg-beater drill a few years back perfect for my Wife to use around the house. The guy told me it belonged to his Dad, why would you sell something like that? Sent from my shoe phone!

I think the charging system has a net negative loss at idle from memory the current draw is about 9 Amps with the headlight On, mine doesn't drop down to 12 but doesn't hold much more either (I have my idle set ~1000 because I like the engine braking). The Voltage reading could also be effected by where abouts in the wiring it's attached to, downstream of the ignition switch would be a little lower. Sent from my shoe phone!

You have another Griso? Sent from my shoe phone!

Thanks, I cut that one out with a pair of scissors in the parking lot. Better than nothing is all I can say LOL Sent from my shoe phone!

I found a small picture of one on the www and blew it up to life size then pasted it to my sheet metal Transferred the image by spraying over it with some quick dry paint. Cut it out with my trusty Aviation snips, it's best to rough cut first so you end up with a narrow strip then smoothed all around the edge with a file and emery cloth. I bent it around a large pipe in the basement them test fitted it, looked good enough. Before assembly I brushed the inside surface with a brass wire wheel to dull the surface and hide imperfections then sprayed it with conformal coating which just happened to be in reach I should note I never measure anything when I'm making brackets, just pop rivet both sides together so they end up the same shape, I feel it's more pleasing to the eye than regular parallel lines A regular hand coping saw makes short work of 1/8" aluminum.

I always say what offends me would kill most people. Sorry, I was a bit prickly this morning.

I agree with you up to a point, The VII rear brake is not very effective especially in the wet, at the same time I would be very reluctant to apply the front too hard going downhill on loose gravel. On my Eldorado it is more effective than the front alone. In the early days of motorcycling motorcycles never had a front, and if you think about the roads they were riding For the record I haven't upgraded my rear brake. it's stock, I did make a comment that the similar brake on my K100 (a cruiser) was worn out (by the previous owners) I don't believe I said I was better at braking than anyone, I know for sure I'm not but it ticks me off when someone infers "I'm a racer, you know nothing"

Docc, It's when the lamp is only half on and winking at you, then you will appreciate it's worth as a troubleshooting aid.

Ok if rear brakes are so un-required how come it's the front they leave off choppers? Seriously to say the rear brake is not required is ridiculous, to use a racing situation as the holly grail of motorcycle riding, why, most motorcycles never go near a track. Sent from my shoe phone!

Tidied up under the seat, added the light to the petcock fuse I keep telling others to add. Sent from my shoe phone!

Try removing the damper altogether, just take the bolt out of one end. It will soon show you if that's the problem.