Kiwi_Roy

I suggest you use your other thread about Scura Electrical Issues Cheers Roy

If the battery is low I think the ECU has trouble starting, I know mine won't even bump start if it gets too low. It corrects for Voltage but only down to about 9V I think, after that it may not even be able to open the injectors. (my theory only) If the Voltage gets too low the start solenoid may not have enough grunt to close the contacts in which case It could sit there pulling many times the normal current with both coils energized and blow the fuse. (normally the second coil is only alive for Make certain the main ground is securely attached to the gearbox. I know of at least 3 VIIs that let out magic smoke when the ground worked loose. The starter turns over slowly and heavy start current cannot get back to the battery direct so it finds it's way to the small regulator ground wire heating it to red hot which melts adjacent wires in the loom. (I think the slow cranking in your case is just the battery) You have a special bike there, when do we get a picture?

I probably should fill you in. My riding buddy crashed in a spectacular way spending about 6 weeks in hospital. This put a bit of a damper on the trip but I still got quite a bit of riding in restricted to the North Island. BTW, his stay in hospital and superb care was all at the expense of the NZ taxpayer or at least part of the bike insurance, BCAA travel insurance was worthless. The roads were every bit as good as I remembered The meat pies you can buy at any garage and corner dairy tasted better than I remembered Hope to make it back again one day.

Pretty damned nice is all I can say. Great work!!!!!! Sent from my shoe phone!

A parallel universe - that's an apt description. For it to work the regulator has to have power (be working) if for some reason the headlight relays not closed you get no warning that the bikes not charging because the electronic switch in the reg that turns the light on is powered down, brilliant Luigi! I have seen the electronic switch burnt out and the regulator working well, it's a separate function, best to confirm by checking the battery Voltage.

Congratulations You are right, 4 pins are fine for most slots but what's the difference in cost to have all interchangeable relays? Every new to me Guzzi I get I swap all the relays for a new set, start off on the right foot. I'm still puzzled why it wouldn't crank, would you mind looking into the base of relay 3 to see if there's a metal contact in the middle of the 3 small ones. ----- ----- | | | ^ this one here. Thanks Roy

The regulator has a short black and white wire going to a male/female (2 way) connector. The male part of the connector it plugs into goes to the charge light so if you touch it to chassis the light should turn On. The oil light shares the same supply as the charge light, it will also light if you ground the wire at the pressure switch. If the light is dim it could be a bad contact in the switch, shorting it to ground will confirm that if it gets brighter. I'm told if you purchase the rubber boot for the switch they last longer, I have little faith.

Why are you taking that out? Mine stays in place when I pull the wheel out.

Here's another sketch, with an ohmmeter you can check all the switches from under the seat, disconnect the battery and pull the relays and fuses. With the key On you should get zero Ohms between the bottom of fuse 4 to Relay 3/30 I'm not sure how you have the stand switch jumpered but you should get zero Ohms between Relay 3/30 and 3/87 Test the kill switch between 3/30 and fuse 8 or if you don't have electric petcock Relay 3/30 to Relay 4/85 In later years the wiring changed around the relays BTW note Relay 1 is the only one with a wire on terminal 87A (the only one that needs a 5 pin relay)

If you look at the sketch I posted, read it from left to right, everything to the right relies on what's to the left to be ok e.g the stand relay won't get power until the fuse is ok and the switch is on. Test for power at the stand relay 30 (because it's easy to access), if it's not there look back to the left. If it's there look at a point further right.

Only the start relay needs to be 5 pin but most owners install them in all slots. Actually a 4 pin relay will appear to work in all slots it will cause the starter to crank but the 5th pin in the start slot feeds power to the headlight relay when the relay is not energized, without power to the headlight relay the charging will not work (unless you have an aftermarket direct connected regulator) If you have never changed out the relays I suggest you get a new set from Pyro Dan or Omrons from www.digikey.com part No Z2247-ND Last time I bought them the Omrons were made in Italy, your V11 can hardly complain about that. I should first of all asked if you had checked the battery connections and main ground. Scrape the battery posts and apply some grease, this protects the lead from Oxygen in the air which causes it to Oxidize, Lead Oxide is an insulator. The main ground should be connected to a gearbox bolt down near the seat release key, again with a little grease to prevent corrosion. Vaseline is my grease of choice. Sent you a PM

Check for 12 Volts on the far most large socket (30) of relay 3 (aka TP-b ), that comes from the ignition switch, if it's not there could be a wire broken off the switch. The switch is very easy to remove, it's attached to the key mechanism by 2 Phillips screws underneath at the rear. From relay 3 (87) power goes to the kill switch then back to fuse 8 (if you have an electric petcock). If you don't have a petcock try to find 12 Volts on one of small pins of relay 4 When relay 4 picks up it triggers the ECU to prime the pump.

That looks really sharp One thing I wouldn't do is get the reset button put through the glass, the speedo is the only one that needs a reset for the odometer, the tach just needs it for initial setup. Have just one common button at the back or side and use it for all gauges. For the Voltmeter a range of 10 - 15 would be appropriate, try taking the feed from the dash or park lights I think it would be closer (less Voltage drop) than the idiot light feed. For the gauge power supply you want a switched feed, the park light would be good for that also, unlike the idiot light feed it doesn't turn off while cranking and reset the gauges which is annoying. Don't forget the essential idiot lights, Fuel, Indicators, Neutral & High beam, you don't need Oil pressure and charge. The 194 LEDs from www.superbrightleds.com look quite good simply set into the plate so the surface is flush. Typical part No WLED-B-90 (B for blue) they operate on AC so there's no need to worry about polarity. If you make the panel from 1/8" Aluminum a cheap wood Coping saw will carve out the curves in no-time flat. I always wanted to machine turn (piece of dowel and grinding paste) the metal but I don't have a drill press.

Complete with assorted flys? Will take one tonight, I was very pleased with how it worked BTW. The only thing I would do different is run it through an English Wheel and add a bit more curve to the top so it doesn't look straight in the side view.

Look for a red wire with black stripe, it feeds the charge light, oil and neutral lights, it comes on with the headlight. Check for 12 Volts on the red/black wire at the Voltage regulator. The same wire also powers the tachometer, is that working? The strange one is the neutral light, it's fed from a different source. It's perfectly safe to short the neutral switch, oil pressure switch and the male pin of the male female connector where the regulator plugs into to chassis, this will test the lamp. The female part of the plug where the regulator plugs in should have 12 Volts on it. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif

There are many things that can affect the idle but mixture is the easiest to adjust. Are you running closed loop? There is more than one cell in the map that covers the idle. You probably have a column at 1100RPM. A fast idle will also be affected by the next column's settings and this one may not be optimal. I don't think there is a bad pulse but timing jitter from worn timing chain could be a problem. Try putting a timing light on the bike and see how sharp it is at idle. It will probably blur as you rev to 3000RPM. If there is a bad pulse then something is probably visible with the timing light. This will also show in the data from the ECU so have a look at the logs for any diagnostic messages. Please post your map so I can see if anything looks odd Cliff, I see what you mean I checked the TPS mV and found it to be close to 450 with the throttle body fully closed, it must have been bumped although I may have had the TPS off over the winter and not reset it properly, sometimes Ido that sort of thing to answer a question on the forum. When I reset it to 150 then set the idle to give me about 425 the bike ticked over pretty good but ran really rough with more throttle. I'm thinking I may have corrupted the map somehow, I will bring home the laptop and re-load it. I seem to recall something about zeroing some cells so the bike had better engine braking. Don't get old.

If you get a short circuit you might blow many fuses before you find the cause. If you take one of the blown fuses and connect it to a headlight bulb then plug it into the tail light fuse holder. If there is a short the headlight bulb will shine brightly If there is no short the lamps will work as normal, the headlight can provide 2-3 Amps. If you have an intermittent short the headlight bulb will flash every time you wiggle the wires, no fuses will be harmed in the process. The headlamp acts as a current limiter, it will supply about 2 amps into a load, more than enough for most small loads before it starts to heat up, double that if you wire up both filaments in parallel While the lamp is cold it's resistance is quite low, but if there's a short to ground downstream the filament heats up and the resistance goes sky high. Magic resistors I call them. With the current limited this way there is no possibility of doing any damage, unlike the 500 amps you might get from shorting out the battery.

The tail light fuse also feeds the park lamp in the headlight and the lamps in the speedo and tach. A trick I use for an intermittent short is replace the fuse with an old headlamp bulb, with no short the lamp is out, Wiggle the wiring and create a short and the lamp flashes.

Yes exactly that. I started going through Docc's check list, the TPS was quite a way out, how do those move? I have a wideband O2 sensor, that's no use for setting the O2 is it?

You may have mentioned this to me before, It certainly made sense that the chain could have been whipping around so I replaced the old tensioner with one of the blade type and new chain for good measure. It had no effect on the sneezing but certainly gave me less things to worry about, that old tensioner was crude to say the least.

Cliff, the bike has been parked for over a year. No, the MyECU has been flawless, it's only recently been suggested that perhaps the CO needs resetting. For the longest time I assumed it was getting an odd pulse from say the phase sensor causing it to fire earlier, most unlike a mixture issue. The bike runs so nice apart from the sneeze at idle, gobs of power and good fuel economy, Again to describe the symptoms. Idles nicely then after 30 or 40 pulses gives a violent pulse that seems to stop the engine in it's tracks, I equate this to firing well before TDC and trying to change direction. I have been sidetracked for the last year or two by some mature older ladies. 84 California II, 72 Eldorado, 86 Lario

One more thing to check I will go through the TPS setting and balance over the weekend.

Sorry no experience with Stabilant 22a I have only been using Vaseline for 55+ years, I'm sure there are better products but I don't feel the need. When crimping or making a joint in a wet location I simply dip the wires in it, the grease repels the moisture and stops corrosion. I have also used regular grease or even oil if Vaseline is not handy. Battery terminals should never be connected without something greasy. Sent from my shoe phone!

I believe if you set the nuts equal distance on both sides it will be close enough, the bearings should be just tight enough to create some resistance Sent from my shoe phone!

The ignition switch is the weak point in many Guzzis, I don't believe the switch contacts were designed to take the 45+ Amps that the starter solenoid draws at the instant the relay contacts close. I used to think all the spine frame bikes were immune from Startus Interuptus like my 2001 VII Sport but not so. the later VIIs suffer from the same stupidity, wiring the start relay through the ignition switch. It's pretty hard to get 45 Amps through all that spaghetti. If you go on the other forum you will see most owners are familiar with the problem. I helped an old guy with a 750 Breva at the National in John Day over the weekend, while doing so two other owners came up and explained how they had done the fix. I was pleased to see when the bike refused to crank he knew exactly how to jumper the solenoid with a short piece of wire.