Kiwi_Roy

Wot, you getting too old for HH Docc?

Make sure you have the battery in the right way around, if it's in backwards the ECU won't let it the live wire is positive in relation to the chassis. Check for Voltage across the coil sockets for relay 4 and from either socket to chassis, 85 | | | 86 I think I sent you the sketch for checking all the switches from under the seat. I will fire it off again. The Neutral Light, Oil Pressure Light, Low Fuel Light and the tach are all fed from the headlight circuit, is your headlight On? I sometimes unplug the headlight relay while I'm working on the bike but be aware the charging won't work, better to unplug the 4 way connector under the headlight bucket to save power.

No I suspect the ECU is fine, the ground is just a shield but just follow the small black wire off the ECU case into the loom, it only goes a short way to the battery. This is the reason BTW we say to disconnect the battery negative first and re-connect it last, that way it's impossible to short out the battery, once the negative wire is off you can do whatever you like to positive. If you don't grease the battery terminals lead Oxide Forms on them, this is an insulator which will eventually creep in and even disconnect the terminals from the lugs even when the bolts are tight, scraping the terminals and smearing with a little Vaseline coats the metal prevents the Oxygen getting at the Lead., You may have noticed when you touch your meter leads on the posts it doesn't make contact until you jab the points thru the Lead Oxide layer. I find most guys are skeptical about this, I cut my teeth on large traction batteries. I doubt there is anything wrong with your starter, connect your meter on the large terminal where the main lead attaches to the solenoid and chassis, I think you will see it take a dive when you press start. Seems like you are getting close to Lift Off then I just missed your latest post, Every time you turn the key On (or cycle the Run/Stop switch) you must hear the pump cycle for a couple of seconds. If you don't it's not ready to run or the battery is ass backwards Make sure the electric petcock is plugged in, you can tell by measuring with fuse 8 out, it should measure about 20 Ohms to chassis on the load side of the fuse holder. The pump can sometimes suck thru a closed petcock but you will hear it protest the first time you turn the key on you can hear the system charging up with fuel. May I suggest starting it outside for the first few times, have the garden hose handy.

If is not the battery it must be a bad connection, always smear a little Vaseline on the battery terminals, make sure the main ground is securely fastened to the gearbox. Scrape the battery terminals with a sharp knife to remove the Lead Oxide before applying vasaline Sent from my shoe phone!

The Guzzis use the same rear pads as some BMWs, I know because my Brother gave me a pair for my K100 flying brick. Sent from my shoe phone!

Are EBC Chinese? Sent from my shoe phone!

My California II is at 105,000 miles and still runs well even if it rattles a bit, I haven't looked at the chain yet. My Eldorado is at 130,000 miles, it was badly worn in the cylinders, the timing chain was good, wait it doesn't have a chain, steel gears look like new.

I read somewhere a slack timing chain could cause the sneeze the tensioner was quite worn and hardly doing it's job. I don't know, mine at 50,000 showed only the slightest sign of wear. Are you saying 100,000 is just wearing in? I have no idea, that's why I asked

I changed mine out at 80,000 km mainly because I needed to upgrade to a Valtek tensioner I'm guessing the chain should last 100,000 miles easily, what do you guys think. I have been asked the question by a new owner.

Was it the plastic bearing cage? Sent from my shoe phone!

I think the bung you are talking about is too small. I had mine welded into the crossover, when not in use I replace it with a sensor from an auto wrecker.

Has to be a metric one. Sent from my shoe phone!

Sorry, the cover on the air filter. Sent from my shoe phone!

Hang the broken spring on your keychain, "proof of rite of passage" Of course if you were younger in your ear or through your nose. Sorry, I have a weird sense of humour

Sorry, probably a combination of new fuse and new regulator. I have a theory that the shunt type regulators are not so hard on the fuse, current peaks are not so high. Have no proof though Sent from my shoe phone!

The new fuse is making better contact. Sent from my shoe phone!

I'm currently running my bike without the filter inlet so the RR is sitting in the space it occupied Sent from my shoe phone!

You would know if there's an electric petcock, it screws in near the rear of tank on left hand side, a chrome cylinder about 2" long and there will be no manual shutoff valve To try the pump unplug the ECU for safety, remove all the relays. Plug a wire into the 87 socket of the rear most relay and touch the other end to battery +, it should make the pump spin. If it doesn't send me a PM with your e-mail address I will send you a sketch on reversing the pump. Relay Pins ------ 30 ------ 87 | | | 85 87A 86 (I may have 85 & 86 swapped around) Once the pump breaks free it will soon flush out the varnish from old gas.

Congratulations - first thing to do is learn how to post pictures

I had the same thought Do you mean Valve timing?

One thing that springs to mind, after sitting several years the fuel pump may be gummed up and refuse to turn but don't despair they can usually be coaxed into life again, don't try to pull it apart, they are a sealed unit. As Docc says the relays are due for replacement, buy all 5 pin variety as they will operate in any slot. Carefully identify the fuel level sensor under the tank, many of these have been burnt out by owners mixing the cable up with the electric petcock, it's expensive to replace, perhaps leave it unplugged until you need it. The fuel sensor is the one closest to the front, the electric petcock is a chrome device with a hose attached, the wires have been known to snap off these where they exit the epoxy, ty-wrap the wires to the body so it takes the strain off where they exit.

Yes if one of the relays stuck closed it would drain the battery, it might have been the bad regulator also but they usually go open, you'll soon figure it out. Unlike a lot of other Guzzis the VII is fairly well fused, a short should take out a fuse and protect itself.

I'd like to think Luigi selected a fuse holder rated at least 30 Amps The problem is the regulator being a series type passes whatever current the alternator can put out as current pulses much higher than 30 Amps, maybe peaking at 40 or 50. A shunt type as used on most other bikes would have been kinder to the fuse because they short out the alternator before it leaves the regulator thus removing the source of heat By-pass the existing fuse, you may be able to use it later for an accessory.

Fried a diode, that's quite common, caused by a flakey relay IMHO however don't go ordering a lot of parts until you have had time to check it out properly, I wouldn't order the OEM Ducati Energia in any case. With all the lists you have been given you will be busy for a while. No matter what condition the bike appears to be in, they are a pretty special machine and well worth taking a bit of time over. Post some pictures when you get your hands on it.

As Gstallons says check the connections Where the yellow wires solder to the alternator stator. The bullet connectors that plug into those yellow wires, must be silver not black with no sign of discoloured plastic. The 30 Amp fuse under the seat, if the plastic has discoloured it's overheating. If you have the diode test function on your multimeter unplug regulator and touch red lead on its yellow lead, black on red lead, it should read about 0.5 Volts, same on other yellow to red. (this applies to the Ducati Energia regulator)