Kiwi_Roy

The regulator on mine was mounted to the horn bracket which in turn was bolted to the chassis. I could see no sign that Luigi had given any thought to removing paint from the regulator to bracket or bracket to chassis connection. I haven't bothered to measure the resistance of the black wire back to the negative. I suspect when the bikes are new they may get an accidental good ground but as Marty says after a few years it falls back on the small black wire and the battery loses Volts. Voltage drop between regulator case and battery is critical, the red wire could lose several Volts with no effect Electricians measure low resistance using what's called a drop test, no, we don't throw it on the ground, you pass a known current through the resistance and measure the millivolts drop. It's actually quite easy to do all you need is some way of passing a steady current through the resistor, I use a headlight bulb and a 12V battery and measure the current on the 10 Amp range, for example it measures 4.6 Amps then measure the Voltage drop across the resistance, suppose it's 7 millivolts Calculate using Ohms Law 7 mV / 4.6 Amps = 0.0015 Ohms. The trick is to measure the mV on the right side of the joint because the mV drop is high across the current connections, Using this idea you can then make a shunt from just a piece of wire that can measure over 100 Amps, for example the starter current 7.66 inches of #12 will give you 1 millivolt per Amp and measure 150 Amps for a few seconds before it gets too hot.

For the ground I crimped a lug on both ends of about 6" of #12, Later on I thought that's not very smart Aluminum to Copper why not just take a piece of Aluminum sheet metal and make a strap from the alloy regulator to the alloy engine case it would hold it's shape better than a wire but add grease as well. I think all the VIIs have a black wire all the way from the regulator to battery negative, it just has too much resistance. It's also been responsible for smoking up several bikes when the main ground has worked loose, the starter current can't get back through the regular cable so it finds it's way back through this regulator ground which gets red hot and melts itself to the rest of the loom. I cannot stress enough the importance of cleaning the battery terminals and adding Vaseline to them, I have seen where a battery becomes completely disconnected although bolted tight by Lead Oxide creeping in between the lug and post, one application of Vaseline will protect the connection for years. Re Maxi Fuse connection. As you can see the fuses aren't blowing, it's just a high resistance that causes heating, Might I suggest drilling a couple of holes in the blade and bolting the wires to it. I would be very cautious about doing away with the fuse, the battery can easily melt any wire on the bike if you get a short I think the Ducati Energia series type regulator might be partially to blame for the heating, once it decides the battery needs to be topped up it effectively connects the alternator directly to the battery delivering as much current as the alternator can produce as, I haven't measured the current pulses but I suspect it may be as high as 40 Amps, its a short duration of high current probably exceeding the rating of the fuse clip. This is another reason to keep your battery terminals in good shape, as you know the alternator Voltage can go to 90 Volts open circuit, you don't want that getting into the ECU if the battery disconnects. Our Guzzi regulators are series type that break the alternator circuit, Most other bikes use shunt regulators that short out the alternator,

The 01 VII has 2 relays in series before the Voltage regulator so they are more likely to have flakey Voltage. Sent from my shoe phone!

This might help a little, follow the power from the fuse at the left to the right. For the pump to run you have to get power all the way through the ignition switch, Sidestand Relay and Kill Switch. Then it goes through the start button, then the clutch switch and and the two bullet connectors shown as -->--- on each side of the clutch finally it reaches the start relay. I show a little green light hooked into the petcock fuse, this will tell you if the power is at the ECU, if it's there the bike is ready to go. Passator Cortese, Since the pump doesn't prime your problem is to the left of Relay 4, have you cleaned the ignition switch, takes about half hour. The Neutral light will tell you if power is getting through the switch, Cyborg might be right about the relay R3 or R4 but my moneys on the switch. The Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) used to lubricate it goes hard with age and holds the contacts apart.

I do it as per Scud, you shouldn't need any special tools as long as you don't allow any air into the system. A 10 mm ring spanner slipped over bleeder, stays there for the duration. Length of clear plastic hose from bleeder into a bottle 1/ apply brake, 2/ open bleeder, - lets the pedal go down or lever go to bars 3/ close bleeder without releasing the brake. 4/ release brake, - sucks in a fresh charge of fluid back to step 1 It's important to get the sequence right or you might suck air into the slave cylinder Be very careful not to splash fluid onto the paintwork, it's the best paint remover. If you take the rear caliper off jamb something in between the pads so they can't close on you.

Lean perhaps Sent from my shoe phone!

Besides I'd walk that far for a Rosso Corsa LOL When do we see some pictures? Sent from my shoe phone!

It doesn't count if you don't ride it home. I bought my EV sight unseen in Denver CO and rode it back to Vancouver BC camping along the way. Sent from my shoe phone!

Harpers list all the parts but I'm sure you can pick up a used unit from a parts bike just be sure to replace the plastic filter with an all metal one. Browsing the forums most owners seem to be wanting to go the other way from internal to external, not sure why as with everything internal the hoses must be much simpler. Most cars have an internal pump, perhaps a visit to your local auto wrecker.

I don't know the software at all ( I have a MyECU not a 15M, it uses different software) but the screen I see doesn't seem to be communicating, all values are blank.

Don't you think it will be a zoo there for the 100th? Sent from my shoe phone!

It's a different type of Hall Effect, I don't think they have been on the market more than about 5 years, I don't know the theory behind them but they put out 10 to 90% of the supply Voltage (5 Volts in out case) so 50mV to 5.5 Volts over 90, 120. 180. 270 or 360° Cliff, Yes, you're right we need the 90° option, I was about to order a 180 Over the weekend I will figure out the complete part No and get you to check it.

A while back I identified a Hall Effect TPS that should fit the Guzzi. The nice thing about Hall Effect is it has no sliding parts, the angle of rotation is transferred magnetically so it should last forever. Digikey have HE TPS units for around $40 but the problem is selecting the right one, a while back I purchased a Honeywell one that looked like it would work but it was just a tad too big. Digikey part no 693-1001-ND or 693-1003-ND look interesting, they have an output of 50mV to 4.5 Volts The curve doesn't have a knee though, it's strictly straight. Points to consider Rotation degrees, I think 180° Update No 90° is what you need CW or CCW rotation Spring loaded or not The slot or tang to fit Hall Effect TPS millivolts doesn't start quite as low as the old slidewire type Perhaps an expert like Meinolf could write up a spec for a new Hall Effect unit The map might need to be modified slightly, I don't think Hall Effect has the same knee in the slope The second paragraph d) "you can use any TPS that can be fastened to the throttle body" should we also say any TPS that is readily available

Get a good pair of Speedhuts Sent from my shoe phone!

When you take your finger off start button the current runs backwards through the Pull In coil and the Holding coil in series. there should be no current through the fuse in this case because the relay is open. The 2 coils are supposed to cancel each other out letting the solenoid go (contact open) but I have seen one brand new solenoid on a Bosch starter hang up every time causing the starter to run until the battery could be disconnected.

The real starter circuit is nothing like it shows in the manual, there are two coils in the solenoid One lets call it the Holding Coil that measures 1.05 Ohms between the spade terminal and chassis. Apply Ohms law to that, 12Volts / 1.05Ohms = 11.4Amps But there's another coil I call the Pull In coil measuring just 0.25 Ohms wired between the spade terminal and the starter motor if you apply Ohms law to that 12Volts / 0.25ohms = 48Amps (the motor itself is close to zero) The instant you press the start button the start relay applies 12 Volts to the spade terminal and you get a combined current of 45 - 50 Amps (this is providing the wiring is up to snuff) Less than 0.1 seconds later the solenoid pulls in closing the main contacts and putting the same Voltage on both ends of the 0.25 Ohm coil so it's current drops to zero and just the Holding Coil is holding the solenoid in place at ~ 11 Amps. At the same instant 150 - 170 Amps charges through the starter motor spinning it up to speed. If the main battery cable is not making good contact when the solenoid contact closes there is no Voltage to pull the Pull In coil to 12 Volts so it continues to try and spin the starter through the 15 Amp fuse and Start Relay I did a test on mine, I left the main wire loose to simulate a bad connection, sure enough the fuse popped in les than a second. This is what happened to yours. Scrape the terminals and smear on a little Vaseline and it won't happen again. BTW, you may have heard the term Startus Interuptus , this is an affliction Luigi passed on to almost every Guzzi by wiring the Start relay through the ignition switch. The cure is to bypass the switch.

As Docc says the red/black wire from the headlight relay provides power for the tach, the light is irrelivent. Sent from my shoe phone!

Was it raining when the light stayed on, could be just a bit of leakage. Sent from my shoe phone!

The small spark may have been a capacitor charging, I wouldn't worry if it's holding charge. Yes the OEM Ducati Energia needs a ground, the current returns that way. Sent from my shoe phone!

Jamb some paper towel in around the plug, it will absorb most of the oil coming out, a teaspoon full goes a long way.

Beatle on Wild Guzzi is doing some wonderful work on the newer bike maps. Sent from my shoe phone!

No 30 is the right size, I was waffling on about Guzzis in general just ignore me everyone else does LOL Sent from my shoe phone!

I don't think it will have tubeless rims but a good bike anyway. Sent from my shoe phone!

No, a 30 Amp fuse in the red wire between regulator and the battery, some owners use a maxi fuse but if you have good tension on the fuse clips the OEM is ok. Some Guzzis have no fuse at all, a breaker would be ok too. The yellow wires don't need fuses, the one in the red wire protects them as well. I believe it's more important to protect the wiring from the battery than the alternator. The battery can put out several hundred Amps and it's hard to disconnect in a panic, many of the older bikes have lots of unprotected wiring, I always add a 40 Amp fuse next to the battery. Our VIIs are some of the best wired guzzis IMHO

The insulation melted because there was too much resistance in the joint, doesn't take much. Put the ground under any of the 6mm timing cover screws, the Aluminum engine case will make a perfect conductor to the large ground cable at the gearbox. Sent from my shoe phone!