Kiwi_Roy

When it's charging it puts out heat Example 10 A @ 16 V, some of the current will be out of phase but I won't make my head hurt trying to figure that out. Sent from my shoe phone!

The original Ducati Energia is a series type also. BTW shorting out the alternator doesn't create at much heat as you might think since the Volts are low Watts =V*A The worst thing you can do is only half short it, then you get high Volts and high Amps as a Goldwing owner may know. I heard those SH775s were good

I have been suggesting instead of using copper wire and lugs against aluminium regulator and engine case a simple strip of say 16 gauge Aluminium with a hole in each end. This could easily be bent to sit nicely against the frame. I would still use some form of grease between the parts.

You must be coming from a Suzuki Intruder, those guys loved their Magic Star Washers HaHa The problem with the ESR525, if I'm not mistaken it still relies on the flakey Voltage Reference I think it needs to be grounded also.

Bbolesaz said During a night ride the lights got extra bright on a number of occasions I'm a little puzzled as the Voltage reference is taken from the headlight circuit after the relay, it should be quite stable even if the battery isn't Has your bike been modified with headlight relays fed direct from the battery? Pulled the tank to have a look at the regualtor wiring. There was only one (I assume the stock) ground on the regulator bolt. But the wiring has no sign of overheat. So, I'm thinking I need a new regulator. Should I go stock or Electrosport ? The normal path is through the chassis to regulator case, if it has to rely on that long wire all the way back to battery Negative you will lose some Voltage. I would try adding a ground it may solve your problem perhaps it has an intermittent good connection causing the lights to go brighter. You could also try a wire direct from the battery to the regulators Black wire thus eliminating the normal Voltage reference to see if that regulates better but you won't be able to leave it that way (I have used that trick a couple of times on a trip to fix a non charging bike) I went with a direct connected Electrosport ESR510 to eliminate the flakey headlight circuit voltage reference The early ones like my 2001 were particularly bad with 2 relays in series, anything from 0.5 - 1.5 Volt You can measure that directly from Battery + to the regulators black wire, measure it first then try re-seating the headlight and start relays. I now have to disconnect the battery over winter because the Electrosport has a small current drain. Woe betide if I forget to hook it back up, next thing I have a flat battery. Corytrevor is correct there is no need for a supplemental ground with most after-market regulators as the internal components are connected to a dedicated ground wire not the case. BTW our spine frames share charging with the EVs, Jackals etc

Before removing the switch deaden the wiring by removing the battery Negative lead.

The metal can for the sensor is free to move, it just sits in top held by the wires, check the resistance of the sensor about 3k Ohms from memory. NEVER get the plug crossed with the petcock if you have one or the expensive sensor will go poof in a cloud of magic smoke first time the level goes low. Sent from my shoe phone!

My Greeny has a frame tube behind the ECU, I moved the ECU out of the way also

Getting the tank past the seat surround is the hardest part Step 1 remove the seat surround (6 screws, 2 small ones underneath) Step 2 take a short length of 2 x 4 (11 - 11-1/2") and a suitable lever, pryer, tire iron Step 3 place 2 x 4 against rear of tank (behind the bolt hole) Step 4 lever the tank forward using the frame tube behind the ECU as a fulcrum point. You may also need a screwdriver or something to line up the captive nut You may have to remove the ECU or battery to give more clearence

That's brilliant Coreytrevor How did you ensure it syphoned back faster than the pump delivered it? How did you fasten it in the tank I tried to lever the tank back on with no success, it's been difficult before. I contemplated moving the rubber front support further forward, I think that would be easy enough. Tonight I will remove the seat cowell, that's what it's having trouble clearing Perhaps we need to make some metal bracing to stop it growing like a strap from each front cup to the rear screw hole. Sell it as a kit.

The gas on the right still won't transfer by itself so I should still get the warning eh How long does it take for an ethanol distorted tank to grow back? I assume it's not enough to just switch to ethanol free gas. Sent from my shoe phone!

As you all know the fuel tank has a dead area on the RH side, the pump sucks from the left but returns to the right. If out of fuel you can tilt the bike to transfer fuel from R to L but the pump quickly returns it. I had my tank off over the weekend and thought about this. It's possible to swap the fuel return to where the fuel level sensor currently resides, this would circulate fuel back to where the pump can reach it. The fuel level hole is a little too large for the regulator but a simple plate would fix that, the smaller hole on the right could be reamed to fit the sensor. Then I got to think about another way, leave the return on the right but install an internal pipe to throw the returning fuel back over the hump. I installed a bit of 5/16 brake line with a right angle bend at the top pointing towards the Left Sorry I haven't figured out posting pictures since PB kidnapped mine. Basically 7" to rt angle bend, Flare on the bottom to jamb inside the flange with an "O" ring to seal. If I run out I should have some fuel trapped on the right I can slosh over the hump and with smooth riding it should stay there. Now if I can just get the tank back on

So there is a connector for the cam position sensor. I was looking for that.

That's a fair price, should go pretty quick Nice bike

I can't post links from here but I stumbled across an interesting post from Bill D http://archive.guzzitech.com/PhaseSensFail-Bill_D.html In particular paragraph 4 This gives a good diagnosis of the sensor failure, he noticed the Tach dropped off and backfiring even though the motor was still spinning, I thought that was brilliant. I'm sure Bill won't mind me linking to it here.

Czakky - Lets get the Fiat part No in there as well before putting it in the cross reference There has to be more fiat dealerships than Alfa Romeo http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/8484462/magnetimarelli-sen813.html If you scroll down on that page it shows a bunch of Sku numbers related to different cars, I will try those over the weekend. Scroll even further it lists the vehicles it was used on

Yes I saw the listing on Yoyo parts, I'm not convinced they actually have one though I ended up ordering one from Boonstra Parts in Holland Off an MV Augusta Brutale 750, the Guzzi has to be happy about that.

Spent a fruitless afternoon checking out the dealers The Auto wrecker would only sell me a complete engine The Fiat dealer wanted the Vin number Also checked a couple of after market parts shops The Ducati guy had a picture but their sensor was held by just one screw None of the above could cross reference the Magneti Marelli part No SEN-813 Still, I had a good ride on the old Eldo, you don't get that shopping on-line

Never mind, I googled SEN813 and found it Fiat, Lancia, Alffa Romeo I think Ducati use it also Update - the parts guy showed me a picture it had just one screw hole hard to seal the oil in I think - Roy Copied from another forum http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRANKSHAFT-SENSOR-ALFA-ROMEO-145-146-1-4-FIAT-Tempra-Tipo-1-8-LANCIA-/251703577340? This is the exact same part mine arrived quickly direct fit £24.96 as opposed to over £130 from Guzzi I had to really look hard for it I have told the seller and he is going to add the Bike OR SEN-813 to make it easier to find this sensor is fitted to a whole load of Guzzis V11 series and all these Fits Moto Guzzi Quota 1100, V11 Sport ALL, 1100 Sport IE, 1100 Sport Corsa, Bellagio, Breva ALL, Bellagio, Cali EV, Cali Jackal, Cali Stone, Cali Special, Cali Vintage, Centauro, Daytona RS, Griso ALL, MGS-01, 1200 Sport ALL, Norge ALL, Stelvio, V7 Classic, V7 Cafe, V7 Racer, V7 Stone, V7 Special, Nevada 750 (2004-2013) Phase Sensor I think I will take a trip to the local auto wrecker, I might be able to find the mating 3 pin connector as well.

I am getting ready for a trip and want to purchase a spare crank sensor, I figure its the one part of the ignition you cannot jury rig. Can someone tell me the Automotive equivalent like which make and model uses it? For anyone who has changed the sensor, how did you connect it to the ECU, according to the schematics it seems to be wired directly to the ECU connector. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif item (53) Or is the plug 1,2,3 hidden somewhere ib the loom?

Thanks, I will try to do it next week, probably edit the text as well Sent from my shoe phone!

Docc I am so pissed with photobucket there is no chance of me posting the ransom they demand. I thought I would hold my nose and sign up for a year but my browser (I Mac) is so old it craps out Is there any chance of setting up this site so the images can be permanently attached? We don't need such high resolution

Is there any chance of including a picture of the original spring in place as a reference? Thanks Roy

John, I expect the fairgrounds is pretty much booked out, I think we will be camping on a farm outside town but I will try to swing by.

Bump A friend and I will ride down to John Day and camp Sunday evening. J.D. Is pretty much on the path. Sent from my shoe phone!