Kiwi_Roy

Is that Rich of Rich seats West of Seattle near Whidbey Island, my riding buddy has had two seats done there in last couple of years, he's very happy with the results. They even have a motel on-site where you can stay while they finish the seat. I believe they use your old pan. www.richscustomseats.com

In spite of what we said earlier you can successfully dim the LED with just a resistor you just need to make it a lot higher value than you might think. For example I use 100 kOhm for one running on 24 VDC to make it appear about half brightness, thats 24/100,000 = 0.24 milliamps as opposed to spout 10 mA for normal. The equivalent for 12 Volts would be a 47or 57 kOhm. Another way would be to use full Voltage during the daylight hours and much less at night, this could easily be done with a Voltage divider, of corse it needs some way of differentiating from night and day a photo resistor or just a switch perhaps. Only a couple of the LEDs like full beam and direction indicators need to be dimmed, the alarms like fuel level and oil pressure should be left at full brightness. I must say I much prefer the one on the left

The timing marks look perfect, Since the stampings on the flywheel can be put in 6 different positions I don't know. Is the piston on appropriate cylinder at TDC? I'm not an expert on timing I never go by marks only piston position. Obviously the phonic wheel on a FI motor has to be lined up correctly with crank position. While you have the timing cover off check the sensor gap, its much easier with a feeler gauge.

You say you had to keep re-adjusting the RH tappets, both or just one? Is it possible something has fallen down the tappet socket simulating an extra long push rod?

Yeah. The rocker arms in the left cylinder did at TDC, but I had trouble with the right. Interestingly, the left cylinder is the one with the valve hitting. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk How can that be, left and right are tied together. I started thinking the Right Hand cam had been assigned to the Left hand cylinder since they fire 270 degrees apart not 360 but that couldn't happen could it? If the valves are rocking at the right point it would seem impossible to make contact unless a valve was sticking.

The valves should rock at TDC as in both open when the piston is all the way up Sent from my shoe phone!

Just ordered the lower 1-3/8 lower pegs in black along with the lower toe pegs $178 If this works it'll be a cheap fix Now I just have to figure out the seat, they only seem to list the gunfighter for the 8V Griso, I assume it's the same for my 07 4 valve

Which Corban Seat did you go with, I need to get one higher without the step that traps your ass toward the tank. I got the OK from my chief financial advisor to buy a new seat. I was admiring a seat Corban made for a newer model Honda I will also explore the Night Design pegs

LOL, I probably show the Zenner upside down as usual (Zi will be backwards also) I figure the diode should conduct forward in the direction of the arrow at zenner Voltage but of course its the other way. I believe I have the SCRs shown correctly, visualize one half cycle when the Left yellow is Positive, current goes thru left diode to battery, comes back thru ground thru right hand SCR to the right hand yellow which is Negative. There may be errors in my interpretation but I think I have shown it correct. Anyway the charge light circuit is independent of the charging, I have seen it where components were smoked but it still regulated the battery just fine. I had a hard drive crash and lost my drawing files otherwise I could correct it. Feel free to pull a regulator apart and make your own drawing, I was lucky with the first one the epoxy was soft, usually the components are destroyed in the process. All the ones I dissected had one diode lead melted off, they can be soldered back on or supplemented on the outside. I rode home slowly once with a bridge rectifier in place of the regulator. BTW I think at a low idle the battery is in a state of Negative charge so flicker is normal, my EV was the same.

Are you using the 82 Ohm resistor for the fuel level. - I have been using one of the old lamps for that. I like type 194 LED because they are 12V AC (not polarity sensitive), makes it easy for the blinker where the polarity changes with direction. These lamps have a flange that makes them easy to glue into the fitting. I don't believe you need a socket with LEDs it just adds to the complication. If you find one of the lamps too bright add s 47k resistor in series, you might have to go even higher.

I wouldn't worry too much if it's charging, perhaps check the diodes in your regulator just to be sure its not just charging on only one. Diode tester - Red probe to Yellow wire one then the other, Black probe to Red wire should read 0.5 to 0.6 Volts The charge light is pretty useless IMHO. If you blow the light fuse it doesn't go If you ever lose the tach that's a sign there's something amiss, it's fed from the same Red/Black wire after the headlight Relay. A long time ago I posted the regulator schematic on here, that was before Photopirate pulled the fuse. If anyones interested in re-posting it send me an e-mail address.

No, just a bit of grease The main ground on mine was just under the small screw holding the seat release lock in place, it MUST be under a gearbox bolt or the loom will let out the magic smoke like the pictures show. Thats what happened, the 150 Amps the starter draws finds it's way back to the battery through any small wire like the regulator ground. I rabbit on about greasing the battery terminals with vaseline but that's another possible cause, if the main ground looses contact with the post through lead sulphide buildup what else can all those electrons do but smoke up the small grounds still attached? I did consider removing that regulator ground forcing the electrons to use the chassis/main ground but then I thought it might be the only thing saving the ECU from the high Voltage of the alternator It just needs a bit of simple maintenance that's all.

This should happen right at the end of travel. Sent from my shoe phone!

Sometimes if you look into the brake reservoir as you let the lever out you will see a little swirl in the fluid as the tiny hole is uncovered by the piston. Sent from my shoe phone!

Welcome Brubache I'm in New West but I just got rid of my VII May be able to help though Sent from my shoe phone!

Ok, here's something to check. See the smoked wire in the picture Docc posted on page 1 Now imagine that red hot wire touching the wire from the coil to the ECU (the Ve or there VeN on Swooshdave's nice drawing), it could easily short to chassis causing the coil to draw a continuous 17 Amps which would soon cook it. I have seen the ECU ground wire do that when someone was undoing the battery and touched the wrench from positive to the ECU case. The wire in Docc's picture also runs with the coil wires in the main loom it was smoked when the main battery ground worked loose. I keep on saying the coil only draws a tiny current on the average, not enough to heat the coil it only draws a lot of current if the ECU stays turned on or the wire between coil and ECU is grounded, Isn't that warning light the one that produces the error codes?

No, NEW wasn't in the question, besides the VII is not new either. I think I would settle for an old bacon slicer 500, that would be cool

My monies on the Idiot lights Bugtarget, you can narrow it down a bit by unplugging the different connectors then putting them back one at a time. This Schematic is close enough http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif Unplug the headlight relay (34), i'm pretty sure that will clear the fault With the relay back in See the Red/Black wire going to connector (8) unplugging it will disconnect the idiot lights The Red /Black wire also goes the the LH dimmer switch and the two brake switches. It also went to the Voltage regulator on earlier models. Those idiot light sockets are crap, some lamps short them out, I always throw them away and install 12V LEDs

Well I guess I did the right thing for once, I traded in my greenie for a Griso 2007 I will say one thing though the shock absorber in the rear wheel of the VII works much better than what the Griso has riding along slow with neutral throttle it bangs and clangs away something awful, its fine under power. I don't know that i want an 8 Valve though, the thought of that little roller whizzing around the cam would worry me to death LOL

I don't think it will be in the tail light, that's fuse 6 Unless it's in the stop light but that wouldn't blow until the brake is applied. More likely to be in the idiot lights , you haven't replaced any of those bulbs have you? Some lamps short out the holders because the wire touches both contacts. I have always advocated using type 194 LEDs without a holder Yes, a lamp in place of the fuse is the best method of finding a short, I use an old headlamp bulb with a couple of wires soldered on, it can supply more current to liven up the circuit normally. It flashes at you every time you create the short.

That's hard to understand, with the key Off relay 5 should be open so nothing on the coils Even if the key was left on Relay 5 should be open Something is wrong in the wiring for sure.

The coil shouldn't be grounded long enough to overheat. When the bike is running you have +12 on one end of the coils The ECU briefly grounds the other end. Something is wrong with the ECU or you have a ground fault.

Could it be the relay socket needs to be tightened up, I posted a sketch how to get them out. Another possibility is the contacts aren't clicked into place properly and not making reliable contact.

Here's the schematic http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1999_V11_sport.gif A Red / Black goes to one side of both coils, this is + 12 Volts straight from the Power relay, it also feeds both injectors and the pump. A Green wire goes from one coil to the ECU connector pin 20 A Green/Black from the other coil to the ECU connector pin 14 These pins are only held to ground (chassis) for a split second each cycle Pins 23 and 24 are connected by a black wire to battery Negative for this purpose. I'm guessing you have a short on one of the wires holding the coil grounded either that or a bad ECU If you unplug the ECU and turn the key On you should measure +12 on both pins and the coil shouldn't show any sign of heat because there should be no current flowing in it. Looking at my drawing V11 Sport ECU Test points I see the resistance of each coil I measured at 0.7 Ohms so you can see it will get hot quickly with 17 Amps flowing continuously. Using your Ohmeter measure from the 87 socket of relay 5 to 20 and 14 of the ECU socket, should see 0.7 in both cases. Send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will send you the drawing.

You have never rid a real Guzzi til you've rid a loop There's nothing like barreling along at 100 mph then realizing you need to stop. But referring to them in the same breath as old Harleys That's fighting talk