Kiwi_Roy

Oops I answered that on the other thread, the 97A contact of the start relay is feeding the headlight relay or at least it's feeding the oil pressure light. Before you started the 30 contact was switched so when the 97A closed there was no power on 30 Now you know how well it cranks with a direct feed you can't go back LOL Actually it doesn't crank any better it just starts cranking when you push the button, the lag is gone because the solenoid is working how it's supposed to. Usually there are several idiot lights fed from the same switched fuse the example I used in the other post shows that also the Tach gets power as well Can you post your schematic, I will figure out the best way forward, text me a picture of it to 604 728 0966

Is fuse 3 fed direct from the battery? Is the 87A contact un-used? I don't see a Scura diagram among Carl's drawings. Here is a similar year bike where you can't do that because the 87A contact feeds the headlight relay coil' it would flatten the battery. With a small wiring change the headlight relay (22) coil could be fed from the ignition switch (jumper from 30 to 85) with the other end of the coil 86 to downstream of the main solenoid contact instead of to chassis so it turns off the lights while cranking or just leave the light On. Look what a torturous path the Start relay 30 takes on this bike, an early sufferer, I would provide a new fuse direct from battery positive. The main thing is to get as much current to the start relay as possible while making sure it won't crank with the key Off. The Valeo Solenoid will pull over 40 Amps if its fed properly.

If its not priming you are not getting power to the ECU relay (49) via the single way connector (57) This also explains why the starter will not turn over, no power at the Start button (35) The Sidestand switch or side stand relay is where I would start looking. Note how the side stand switch (known point of failure) feeds power to the Kill Switch. When in Neutral the relay bypasses the switch. Your lemans wiring may be a little different than this but the same basic idea, pull the Stand relay and poke a wire in the socket 30 to 87, note some bikes use the 87A contact but you will be able to tell by looking for the brass contact, they only put it in the one they are using. Its also possible you have a broken wire at the ignition switch, a quick check for 12 Volts at the fuses would clear that up Of course there's also the possibility of a bad relay (46) or (49) use the bypassed stand relay and headlight relay in slot 4 & 5 to test. I agree with Chuck, those connectors are awful but that's not the problem in this case, the bike is not priming which is independent of the start button, it primes when the ECU relay closes.

Glad you like it, many thanks to Carl Allison for all the work he has done on Guzzi drawings Google Carl Allison drawings http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html

The schematic shows several grounds around the ECU but I don't think it shows the one to the case, That one is not required to make the bike run but its general practice to ground any metal surrounding electronics, it helps shield it from nuclear explosions, death rays and such. The main ground directly below the battery is the most important it should be fixed to a gearbox bolt, some VIIs, mine includes had it attached to one of the screws holding the seat release lock. If the main ground becomes detached when you go to start the bike the starter current tries to find another way back to the battery, often through the long ground wire shown from the Voltage Regulator to battery negative. When your bike was nice and new the regulator was grounded to the chassis by its mounting bolts. All the charging current over 30 Amp spikes has to find it's way from the chassis to the regulator case so it can get back to the alternator, there is too much resistance in the black wire and you lose some Voltage thats why we add another ground from case to an engine bolt. (this only applies to the OEM Ducati Energia regulators, later ones have a dedicated ground wire)

You can buy the sensor here https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/vishay-bc-components/NTCLE203E3302SB0/BC2730-ND/2601763 The one you want has the R25 at 3000 Ohms NTCLE203E3302 SB They use 25 degrees C as a reference point. http://www.vishay.com/docs/29118/ntcle203.pdf On page 3 column 2

Have you heard someone say "When disconnecting the battery disconnect the Negative first", that's what happens if you don't. Never mind I see Rolf has it covered I think everyone does it once, the resulting flash gets your attention.

Last time I looked Digikey still had them. https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/relays/automotive-relays/962?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&v=39&sf=0&FV=ffe003c2&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25 ARE TOU SURE its a 1C7T you want? That appears to be an oversize relay on the normal base. Ok that is what you want, I'm out of touch - Cheers Roy This is the one I always bought https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G8HN-1C2T-R-DC12/Z2247-ND/765512

The Tach, Idiot lights and Ducati Energia Voltage regulator are all fed from the headlight relay so anytime the Tach is not working chances are the battery is going flat and you need to investigate straight away, first thing to do is see if the headlight is On. Of course if the headlight relay is open the Oil and Charging lights are not working either so you don't have any indication of a charge problem until the engine quits and you have a flat battery. The Voltage regulator must have 12 Volts to turn it On. My usual "get me home" fix is to wrap a wire around the black pin of the voltage regulator and stuff the other end in somewhere hot Some early bikes had the headlight fed through a normally closed contact of the start relay, it must be a 5 pin, This is an earlier version, Carl doesn't have an 03 Trace the Red/Black wire from the headlight relay to the regulator, see how pin 30 of the relay is fed from the start relay, Later versions are a little different, the headlight relay coil is fed from the start relay but the result is the same. You may find a better version of the diagram here but no perving at Carl's girlfriend Haha http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html

I missed that its a 2001, easy thing to do is plug a test lamp in the relay socket /30, see if its alive with the key off Revised June 26 2019 All I am sorry to start a new thread about what seems to be an old problem but I am getting an issue with my Rosso Mandello - after an evening of investigation the problem seems to be that the starter circuit works fine, I am getting 12.7 ish volts at the spade terminal when pressing the start button but when I connect it to the solenoid the voltage disappears and I do not get the solenoid click or starter motor engaging!!! No, its not fine, this is classic Startus Interruptus. The Voltage you measure at the wire (unplugged) is without any load, it will seem normal even though there could be significant resistance in the circuit. When you plug in the spade connector there is a heavy load connected so the Voltage drop due to resistance between the battery and the spade shows up. You cannot afford even a fraction of an Ohm anywhere in this circuit. It may be as simple as a bad relay or loose connector at the relay socket. I found this sketch I did for someone showing the effect of resistance, in this case about 0.2 Ohms between battery + and spade connector. The resistance has caused the Voltage at the spade connector to drop in half, this drops the current through the coils in half so the strength of the solenoid is also half what it's supposed to be so all you would hear is the click of the relay or perhaps it might crank intermittently. If the solenoid manages to close the main contact the starter will crank at normal strength. Note: I only show resistance at a few of the possible points

https://dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf The values in this manual still apply to the smaller ECU If you read through this it gives a good understanding of how an injection system works. One thing that doesn't apply is the vacuum hose on the pressure regulator on the later bikes it's open to atmosphere and the ECU compensates for barometric pressure.

Check if the headlight is working, the tach is fed off the headlight relay BTW the Voltage regulator is also fed from the same source so you don't know if the battery is charging either. You say the charge light is not On, guess what, it is also fed from the same source, no tach, no charging, no idiot lights, nice one Luigi

It should be somewhere near the seat release lock Mine was under the seat release screw, i moved it pretty quick. A gearbox bolt is an obvious point. Some VIIs have let out magic smoke when the main ground became lose, this diverts the starter current to the small black wire from voltage regulator to battery, it pretty soon glows red hot melting into other wires.

I think you misinterpreted my post (more likely I wasn't clear) what I meant was get a regulator where the reference is directly connected to the battery so its more reliable. Heres a Breva, notice how the regulator connects only to the battery Electrosport is a California company that makes regulators in China, I have used a couple of theirs and they seemed ok, They suggest the ESR 515 for your bike.

If you think about replacing the regulator try to find one directly connected so that it doesn't rely on the headlight relay. The Ducati Energia is a series regulator, some owners change to a shunt type but thats your call.

Not a lot would happen, it might effect the mixture a tiny bit, it doesn't change the amount of air.

Your mileage is a lot higher than mine was, i had to use throttle stops on both throttle bodies to get the idle consistent. I would find the point of contact with a slip of paper and then turn each screw the same No of flats.

Before you scrap the regulator do you have an additional ground to it? all the current has to pass back through the ground connections. The small black ground wire is not adequate, any Voltage lost there is Voltage lost to the battery. A short wire or piece of Aluminium strap (similar metals) from the regulator case to a timing cover screw has solved many a problem, make sure you apply some grease. As Docc says the 30 Amp fuse should show no sign of discolouration, dark colouring is a sign of overheating due to resistance.

On further reflection I think it is a faulty regulator, the 30 Amp fuse is back feeding through the regulator and providing a supply to the idiot lights. I think you would find the neutral on as well if out of gear Try unplugging the two pin connector at the regulator, I suspect it might be livening up the red/black wire

Another remote possibility is the wire is broken behind the keyed ignition switch and is shorting to the other The ignition switch block is held on by two Phillips screws up from below.

Run the Chinese sensor by all means it might be fine but carry another spare I would rather have a used spare from a parts bike.

When I built a MyEcu kit for my VII Sport I took the plug off my existing ECU, I had a power commander as well so I wired it directly to the old ECU board and fitted them both in a metal box as a spare ECU

If you look at a schematic you will see the kill switch is powered either through the side stand switch or the side stand relay (that could be called the Neutral relay because it's triggered by the neutral switch). The side stand switches are a known point of failure, they reside in a nasty environment below the engine exposed to water and road salt yet they are expected to provide a perfect circuit to the ECU relay anytime the bike is not in neutral i.e. running down the road. When my stand switch failed the "Go Winkie" light was flickering at about half brightness so I simply shorted out the contacts of relay 3 and never looked back. If I was to re-install a stand switch I think I would use something like a magnet activated reed switch sealed in epoxy or silicone sealant. the current through the switch is only a little over 100 milliamps (relay coil draw), reed switches are hermetically sealed against the environment and rated in billions of operations. Just a small sample https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/switches/magnetic-reed-switches/193?k=reed+switches&k=&pkeyword=reed+switches&sv=0&v=18&sf=0&FV=1f140000%2Cffe000c1%2C2080007&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25

Low Voltage at the gauge might make it read low but I suspect it would read erratically The pulses to the tach come from the ECU, I doubt it would be missing pulses. Sometimes an erratic tach is a sign of charging or headlight problems, the Tach is powered off the headlight relay which also acts as Voltage reference for the Voltage regulator, check the Voltage at the female connector of the regulator M/Fm socket. Otherwise Rich888 might be right something inside is drifting, I just recently repaired the Veglia off my 72 Eldorado