Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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3 hours ago, po18guy said:
Could that perhaps have been a warrantied unit?
Well it had the recall done on it here in Australia when owned previously to me but the s/n markings are factory applied.
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Took me a while to work out how to pull the engine single handed but got there eventually. Dropped the engine down and then slid it off the stand down my loading ramp which I normally use on the end as the Ducati's drag their under engine pipe as you roll them on and off.
No idea what to do next. Might build another timber cradle as this one is a nice way to store the engine and move it around without damaging it.
I need to fit the new engine and trans to the frame and determine the design for the front tank mount and make something up as it needs to be raised around 30mm. There is also some interference issues at the rear between the fuel regulator and the TPS I believe which swapping the reg and the fuel tap may just alleviate, time will tell. After that I'll decide on whether I strip the frame down entirely and repaint it.
Oddly my gearbox has a serial number engraved on the bell housing.Its a factory done thing with the eagles at both ends. The new trans doesnt have one. Is this typical?
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I dont believe the cracking is due to any torque related issues or even transmission/engine support. The engine and trans assembly are supported at 3 main locations (front timing cover, upper and lower gearbox mounts) which from my experience is plenty for an old 2 valve engine of this torque and weight etc. I also dont think its from rear mount bolt crush either as the webs between the upper lugs on the rear mount seem adequate.
There has been a suggestion that the later cases are cast from superior material but unless someone can show me some specific data I doubt this. The cracking simply wasn't any sort of issue when the bikes were being produced and Guzzi aren't the sort of company that reacts with any kind of haste even if it was. By the time Guzzi would have reacted the gearbox would have been 10 years out of production. I still know people that have been dealing with Guzzi's for 30 years and have never heard of gearbox case cracking on 6 speeds.
I believe the cracking is initiated during cooling after the casting process. The areas where the cracking occurs is at very tightly cast corners where the casting transitions from a thin to a very thick section. I think that some castings suffer from this and some dont and the cracking propagates over a period of time for the ones that do. This I believe is why some bikes suffer and some dont. Of course there is also accident damage as a possibility.
I have fitted the extra gearbox mount plate but frankly with the bike stripped down and looking at it I dont see the necessity for it. I'll continue to run it for the belt and braces feel but I dont see it as necessary. I'll also dye check the original gearbox case when I get a chance.
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13 hours ago, Chuck said:
That sounds awfully tight to me. Really, pinch bolts don't take much. You are only closing the yoke by a thousandth or so. Remember when people were cracking the forks on the Stelvios by tightening the pinch bolts on the axles?
Ohlins forks had the same issue Chuck back in 09 and were subject to a recall for new fork legs. It wasnt the bolt torque that was an issue but a fork lower manufacturing fault. Over depth bored fastener head clearance holes from memory.
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When in doubt use the std torque for the bolt dia and grade. The torque is there to provide the appropriate stretch to the bolt to prevent loosening, the bolt specified in the design is whats required to carry the load. So most triple clamp bolts from my experience are 8mm dia so the std torque will be 24.5 to 30nm.
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On 11/20/2019 at 7:57 AM, Nihontochicken said:
So why can't Piaggio do something like this???????????????????
Because its a totally pointless motorcycle on anything other than a race track and even then would be totally outgunned by any other one litre sports bike. Don't get me wrong I love the look of the thing and it would be fun on the track (until it wore you out wrestling around the weight and semi trailer wheel base) but by the time you add all the stuff it would need to become a registerable road bike it would look and perform completely differently.
Guzzi dint make money selling the MGS01 I can guarantee you that.
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13 hours ago, kiwidave said:
I need some help here . I can do the work no problem just which brands do I use/
Andreani cartridges and Wilbers shock, should cost around $1200US depending on the spec of shock you chose.
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Transpose the muffler brackets and/or shift the l/h bracket to the outside of the foot peg hanger .
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And so it begins
I had the side flow injectors cleaned and flow tested from the throttle bodies I had. Originally 1 wouldn't pulse so I dropped them in the the ultrasonic bath and the dud one seemed to come good. However it also seemed to not pulse for the first few applications of voltage so I figured it must still be dirty. I rigged up a 9 volt battery to pulse the injector open and put it back in the ultrasonic bath this time with a mixture of injector cleaner and petrol. This was a well dodgy thing to do and I did it outside with an extinguisher on hand. Anyhow it didnt seem to work.
The reason for all this messing about was it was hard to find anyone to clean the side flow injectors, top feed easy but the side flows was problematic. Anyway I finally found a company and initially one wouldnt pulse but after cleaning on their special machine it came up good.
Just wanted to eliminate as many variables as I can starting a new engine without the std fuel map.
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2 hours ago, fubar guzzi said:
Just how important is the phase sensor+how do we test it?
As important as it gets. You cant fully bench test it. You can check the continuity and coil resistance but sometimes they work cold and then break down with heat when the engine gets to operating temperature. Generally when they fail the engine wont start. Incorrect phonic wheel to sensor gap can cause erratic running.
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23 minutes ago, Rox Lemans said:
Power is fun and all but when you're on public unmaintained roads with 120+hp pounding a corner and you feel your rear wheel starting to break free as your butt puckers... Now we see RSV4s with 190rwhp with a map and pipe... My ADD couldn't handle it...😅
Yep, around 100 RWHP is about all you can use on a road bike I think. I'll trade anything over that for reduced weight every day of the week. A mate and I used to ride with a guy that owned a Blackbird then a Hyabusa then a ZX1400. He couldn't ride out of sight on a dark night but just had to have whatever the latest bike with the most horsepower was. Me and my mate were on Older Ducatis etc and would see him about 10 min after we got to the coffee shop. I pointed out to him that we had half the HP and 2/3 the weight so what was the point in a big lardy Hyabusa etc but he couldn't tear himself away from the latest and greatest syndrome.
Although those that ride them tell you how you dont feel the weight when you're moving they tend to be lost for words when you point out that you tend not to feel the bulk until you're in a sketchy situation then the weight comes and bites you on the ass.
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5 hours ago, footgoose said:
I don't see any RAM clutches but this at MGCycle, and it's for 5 speeds. Which are you looking at?
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=1698
Yep that will fit the V11 except for the gearbox input drive spline and MAYBE a slight mod to the clutch push rod.
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4 hours ago, gstallons said:
Be sure you fill the gearbox before starting the bike . To be safe , add fluid through the glass sight plug after removing sight plug with a hex socket .
You can flush the clutch cavity as much as you want . I would use at lest one can of Brake-Kleen spraying into the clutch housing .
Hmm........I've never even considered doing this and now I do consider it I'm thinking "why would I". Cant really see any advantage and plenty of disadvantage.
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LSB.......little shit box.
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I've maintained for maybe 15 years now that the most sports bike anyone needs on the road is any of the current crop of 600cc Super sports bikes. more power than you can sensibly use and light weight. I stopped riding my Ducati 1198 on the street about 8 years ago when I realised it was just too much bike for the road.
Best fun ever had on 2 wheels period.......a day zipping about Rome 22 years ago on a hired scooter. Dont even know what the engine size was,didnt seem to matter.
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6 minutes ago, docc said:
How is that wear attributable to the “fooler” and not something like the oil change history or other factors?
If the fuelling has been overly rich for a long period then oil dilution would be an issue which wouldn't be doing the already dodgy lifters any favours. I guess this was Petes point?
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3 hours ago, 68C said:
I was told a similar technique for foot and hand position. With a bike on its centre stand LOL, place both open hands palm down on the bars, try to stand up, if you need to grab the bars and pull your feet are too far forward, if you have to push then too far back. May be safer than checking at 60mph but of course does not take wind pressure into account. Perhaps add a slight degree of push?
I regularly do this thing I described when I'm riding my usual local road. There are 2 places I do this due to significant road lumps and bumps. just like riding on the dirt the bike and rider seem to handle these particular patches better with the weight on the pegs as opposed to the seat. I had a serious back injury a few years ago from a big crash at Phillip Island and my spine doesnt like sharp jolts so this works for me as any impact is absorbed through my knees. I'm usually doing 80-90 kph at the time.
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13 hours ago, Chuck said:
I *think* that oil filter is the stainless screen that you clean and reuse.
If it is, I'd give it the flotation test. 
Does this mean you're not a fan Chuck? I'm not myself.
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Ok I'm late to this thread and excuse me getting on my soap box but I sometimes wonder whether people realise when doing these type of peg location mods the backward step they are taking in the performance and safety of their sports bike.
Those of us that have spent time track riding and thinking about the process soon understand that a massive amount of bike control comes via the foot pegs. When you start moving them forward to an extent that is indicated in the images on the opening page of this thread then you're loosing a major amount of bike control.
My yardstick for sports bike foot peg location is this. While riding in a straight line at say 60kph you must be able to lift your but off the seat (say an inch) and maintain that position without using the bars for any type of support or assistance. If you cant do this then you cant effectively weigh the foot pegs during shall we say serious cornering and if you cant weigh the pegs then you diminish the control to a major extent.
People may say that this doesnt apply on a road bike and its true that you can ride around in cruise mode and not be effected but at some point which may end up being an overcooked it moment in a corner you will need this to survive. You cant ride any bike especially a sports bike through the bars alone and this is part of the reason a cruiser is a cruiser and lacks the dynamic control of a sports bike.
Riding the bike through the bars alone is also tiring. The times when I venture onto the track and thinks arent going well its generally because I've slipped into the road riding cruise mindset of not weighing the pegs and riding it through the bars, that and sometimes not looking far enough forward. Both road riders bad habits.
If your a road rider and hit the twisties regularly then you should be consciously applying the principle of loading the pegs so you can have proper control. Unfortunately you wont be able to do this effectively or at all with a feet forward position.
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2 hours ago, docc said:
You have no mid-point crossover and no front crossover at all?
Maybe docc he means the header link pipe?
CO set at zero isnt right either is it docc?
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Just thought, Ford has made quite a few good engines, 429 The Cosworth/Ford DFV. I know not strictly a Ford the DFV but they financed it and owned it so us Ford guys can claim it surely:)
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2 hours ago, gstallons said:
the 351C is the best engine FoMoCo ever produced !
Please define "best"
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1 hour ago, milar said:
The pegs are tight. Neither lever is encumbered. I might adjust the shift lever down just a bit to compensate for the lower peg.
Mike
Adjusting the shift lever down probably wont help as the lever will hit the pork chop. What you need now is this.
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How Tight for Triple Clamp Screws?
in Technical Topics
Posted
Which is the 17 to 22ft/lbs (24.5 to 30nm) std torque for an 8mm bolt.
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