Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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1 hour ago, Colorobo said:
What is the best way to really get them cleaned out. Is there a seat in there. Pipe cleaner. I tried to find a diagram that shows where they go . Is it just a passage into the TB. If so is the orifice the approximately the same size as the end of the screw. Rob
Carb cleaner and a small dia pipe cleaner.
Ciao
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22 minutes ago, Rox Lemans said:
Pics please.😎
Ciao
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I had a set of the cast ones on my bike for quite a while. The added benefit is they reduce the valve clatter quite a bit.
Ciao
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So I've mocked up the bodywork on the V11 to see what the re-positioning of the tank looks like compared to the side panels and tail piece. The front of the tank needs to be raised 40mm, a little less if you jack up the rear of the tank. My bike had the rear of the tank shimmed up by 5 mm previously by me so the tank stopped rubbing on the side covers. What you see here is whats probably the final solution. rear raised 12 mm and the front 40mm. The down side is that it reduces the steering lock quite a bit, not terminally but more than you'd prefer. The limiting factor is the rear lower edge of the upper tripple clamp impinging on the tank at full lock. I can scollope out some on each side of the clamp without compromising strength and looks to gain a little back and the further back you have the tank the better. I'll still need to modify the stops with adjustment bolts though.
The important lines of the top of the tank looks ok to me and the lower tank rear corner to side cover and tail unit interface look fine to me still.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, Colorobo said:
Whats with the different tuning procedures. Is it the ECU difference. Between the15m and 15 rc. Thanks
Isnt the 15M open loop and the 15RC closed loop?
Ciao
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3 hours ago, docc said:
Standard 2vpc 1200 covers with guards? Special gaskets?
Yes 2 valve Grisso covers docc, although the ones in the image have had some slots machined in them. Std rocker gaskets although I used the special metal based ones ones Pete Roper sent me. I wouldn't go back to the old type.Cant remember the name of them,its in a thread of mine somewhere.
Ciao
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23 minutes ago, po18guy said:
I wonder, too. The plug wires are routed up through the valve cover. The downside is that the owner can no longer show off the NGK racing bling wires.
My engine has these head covers as well. The HT wires are routed through the covers and the guards are standard.
Ciao
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11 hours ago, po18guy said:
Once done, do you suppose you'll even dyno that thing? The torque curve would be more interesting to see than pure HP.
It wont be anything special on the dyno as its just a std Daytona/Centauro engine. Just a few more HP than the 2 valver. If I wanted performance I would have gone the Paul Minnaert route with the 1200 big bore, bigger valves and kit cams as he has done.
No, mine is just going to be a sedate road engine.
Ciao
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45 minutes ago, po18guy said:
Is it a matter or moving them forward? Or perhaps forward and up a bit? Guzzi did one thing quite right when they mounted that regulator/rectifier/heat sink right up front. Many Japanese bikes have them hidden and, lacking air flow, they overheat and are nothing but trouble. I recently scoped out the same area on my bike. I was thinking of nice red Fiamm or Hella horns but alas, no room between rectifier and headers. Could probably move them forward and have space, but then they would look like a pair of, well, hooters.
I'll need to see but the but the brackets hit the belt cover up close to where they attach to the cross bar. I'll probably need to remove them and fab up some new ones to move the reg. It will still be in the same area but probably slightly lower and more horizontal. Yes its important to keep them in the airflow.
Ciao
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Progress, front subframe doesn't fit due to the horn/regulator brackets contacting the belt cover. I dont think bending the brackets will get me the clearance I need so I'll ponder it for a bit.
Ciao
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23 hours ago, po18guy said:
IOW, a manly hammer!
Too right it is:) Its a Thor brand as well, very ballsy.
Ciao
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48 minutes ago, po18guy said:
And here I was beginning to doubt his mechanical prowess! Personally, I prefer the low-profile black w/blue handle DB hammer. A lot harder to find when my ADD acts up though.
What I didnt realise until I went back into the workshop was there is actually 2 hammers in the image, the other is a real copper soft faced unit.
Ciao
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7 minutes ago, docc said:
Twelve pages and, finally, a hammer shows up. And rather prominently!
Didnt realise it had taken so long,lol. Not even a proper hammer either but a girly dead blow plastic thing.
Ciao
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So the engine and gearbox are together after some confusion regarding a couple of the mounting studs. Seemed i'd lost 2 of the shorter studs but then realised the engine is originally mated up to a 5 speed box and the shorter studs were different. I robbed them off the 2 valve engine. The clutch push rod length seemed fine compared to the original and I used some dry molycote lube painted onto the clutch and gearbox splines sparingly. I use this on Ducati dry clutches as well to ease the wear factor.
My neutral switch lasted zero time as it fell apart when my finger pushed sideways against it fitting the gearbox. Robbed that off the original gearbox as well.
Ciao
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43 minutes ago, thumper said:
Lucky Phil not everyone is as smart as you are, they are only looking for help.
Not everyone has all the information you require to make a diagnostic LIGHTEN UP.
We all know how smart you are just help with the request as is.
Will not respond to a attack PLEASE just look at it.
You miss the point entirely, its not about how much I or anyone else knows its about giving basic information so others can assist with help in the most efficient way.
The OP is obviously capable enough to have done the work he has on the bike so its not unreasonable to expect he can provide all the information at the beginning.
What I'm asking for is reasonable and sensible and the most efficient way to troubleshoot technical issues, its nothing to do with attacking anyone. It is however a direct comment on getting help without wasting time and energy of people willing to assist.
Ciao
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4 hours ago, Colorobo said:
It started when i change exhaust from M4 cans and crossover to Minstral cans and got rid of crossover in front.. Tb synced and tps set and airscrews cleaned and new plugs . I guess ill check valves. But it is only on the right side TB.
Without being impolite when asking for help with a running issue this stuff needs to be included at the beginning. This seems to be a common event, people asking for troubleshooting help and not including very important information from the start, its very annoying. Like going to the doctor complaining of a headache and not telling him it started after you banged your head.
Its troubleshooting 101......provide ALL associated information at the beginning, not drip fed over pages of a thread.
Ciao
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2 hours ago, Colorobo said:
As stated above, checked with ether around TB no rpm change. just changed Tps no change. what gives Coil and wire,I think. Anybody have suggestions.Actually felt TB for spitting and its the right for shure. On idle also got backfire through exhaust.
Have you checked the compression and valve clearances?
Ciao
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21 hours ago, docc said:
So, my silver warranty gearbox, probably made in 2002, does not have the inscription on the bell housing.
Ok, no idea what the markings are then. The 2002 gearbox I'm using behind the Daytona engine has nout markings.
Ciao
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Progress,got my bench back. Stopped procrastinating and used the ramp method to transfer the engine to the lifter. Need to remove the TB's and fit the gearbox and offer the lot up to the frame.
Ciao
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13 hours ago, po18guy said:
I have an equally bad back. In 2008, Son and I had to unload a 600 pound air compressor from a rental truck onto the concrete at my garage. The lift on the truck would only hold it lying down, so there was quite a bit of estimating and pondering, but we finally got it to do a controlled slide onto a pallet. We then crab-walked it in to the garage. No idea what we would have done had it a mind of its own. I suppose I would be posting on a wheelchair forum.
Yes as you get older and the wear and tear and injuries add up you need to start thinking your way through these things instead of using brute force which you no longer have. I have a plan which involves using the bike lifter bench at full height and the ramp from the bench to the lifter. Get it on the lifter and lower it down. The lifter actuator has now decided to blow its seal of course so that will probably need fixing first.
Ciao
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3 minutes ago, po18guy said:
What's the ceiling look like? Do you have a chain hoist? A car engine "cherry picker" would be near ideal, but no help setting it in the frame.
Ceilings all lined I'm afraid, not my doing. Otherwise it would be a winch from the rafters. Thought of a car engine trolly hoist but need to see how high the arm will lift off the floor. Once I get it on the ground I'm fine.
Ciao
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Here you go docc. Trying to figure a way to get the engine off the bench. My bench is 1200mm high and this engine is 70kg and awkward plus after 25 years of lifting heavy jet wheels and brakes and 90 kva generators and CSD's off jet engines my back is a little delicate. Oh and 2 broken vertebrae from PI turn 12. I need to use brains not brawn to achieve outcomes these days so its a slow process figuring it out.
Old engines new home for the time being.
Ciao
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8 hours ago, gstallons said:
Remember , you are tightening a clamp , not holding an engine mount .
As I mentioned previously the rated torque is for the purpose of stretching the fastener to prevent it losing its tension. You dont design a piece of engineering with an 8mm bolt and then require it to be torqued to half spec. What you do is design the item to use 2 smaller fasteners so you can achieve the similar clamping force at a lower torque.
The rated torque is about the fastener and the required clamping force is about the design.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, docc said:
I have a warranty gearbox. Never noticed the serialization. Where is it on the bell housing?
1200 oclock docc. Number doesnt match the engine. I'll get an image later.
Ciao
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V11 for sale online/ Craigslist and all others
in 24/7 V11
Posted
Forget pull the front wheel, it would pull the girls.
Ciao