Lucky Phil

Yes, I do believe so. Ciao

^Just the nature of the design. Ciao

Yep aluminium, you guys take way better images than me thats for sure but when I checked both my engines(one with and one without) thats the view I got of the ally unit and Chucks images also show the differences clearly. You can also slide a 6" steel rule into the hole and measure to the edge of the hole and see the differences in the depth as well but you need to be precise about where you take the measurements. Ciao

Its fairly easy to tell through the inspection plug if you know what to look for. I tried getting images of my new engine with the single plate clutch and the old twin plater but couldnt get anything meaningful with the camera through the hole. Ciao

Yes and you negate the lifting ramps on the cams which gives the followers and retainers a hard life. Ciao

So I thought I'd have a play around with the throttle bodies and TPS sensor and also confirm my wiring for the PF09 TPS was correct when fitting the old style plug to the V11 loom as the colour coding is different. I made up a 5V power supply and some flying leads and confirmed the TPS read outs were correct and thought i'd do a preliminary set of the TPS which I can confirm when I power up the system on the ecu. bearing in mind that I have no idea how this engine ran or the mileage originally the TPS condition could be anything and I want to eliminate as many variables as possible. mechanically the Throttle bodies are acceptable from a wear perspective although I replaced the plastic connector rod ball assembly. Unfortunately I couldnt get the TPS reading below around 200MV unless I tapped it with a screw drive handle and then I could get it to around 140MV with the throttle blade completely closed which would work if evertime you stopped you tapped the TPS. I ran out of TPS adjustment so I decided to see if I could pull it apart and see what was happening. Although this isnt really relevant to the V11 as it uses the later TPS it might be to anyone following in my footsteps down the track. The PF09 TPS is held together with small metal press rivets so I used a box cutter blade into the joining line and gently twisted the blade to get the rivets to release. Going from one side to the other slowly slowly until I could get a 0.020" feeler gauge length ways into the gap and use those. It helps if you use one on each side simultaneously to prevent the halves rocking as it separates. The whole process took quite a while like 15 minutes but it came apart without looking like it had been apart, ie not butchered. This is the process. And this is what it looks like apart. Note the crud and rubbish on the wiper fingers and also the foam seal and rivets. Also note the strong return spring and wiper faces. Here it is again after cleaning with a very small paint brush and contact cleaner followed by contact cleaner and cotton wool buds. Here you can see the closed stop screw assembly. So after cleaning I hooked it up to my 5V supply and checked the operation. Still not able to get it below 190MV but it was stable now. So next step was to adjust the stop screw. Nothing magic here just adjusted it until the reading bottomed out at 14MV and left it there. Not sure why this was the way it was, dont think wear was a factor, maybe it wasnt adjusted properly from the factory. Dont really know. , Wide open throttle, 4.76 volts which is the nominal voltage of my power supply. Anyway re assembly is simple just put the halves together and use a small tool to press the securing rivets back in place.I also changed the securing screws over to the Torx type I had off another set of Ducati throttle bodies as my original straight slot fasteners were a bit ropy. Ciao

Any outcome here? For the sake of adding to the general knowledge base? Ciao

Interesting, we had a very nice old guy working for us on the tarmac as a cleaner back in the 80's and he used to make those lovely sleek display models of all sorts of aircraft. Qantas and TAA used to commission him to make models of our jets for display in the terminals and executive offices etc. All hand made wood, really nice. Ciao

Ha yes docc had that one for a long time. I often reflect on the tools I've owned for extended periods, a lot for more than 45 years. Then there are tools inherited from my grandfather who was an aircraft engineer also and died in the early 60's when I was around 6 years old. I have images of helping him working on his Triumph Herald ( horrid little car) by handing him some of those very same tools I now own. I got quite upset a year ago or so when I was convinced I had lost my 1/4 drive Snap-on ratchet which I bought as a 2nd year apprentice 43 years ago and cost me half a weeks wage. Wandered around for an hour kicking myself and acting like a death in the family had occurred. Then I found it...........in my side pocket, doh (I so rarely put tools in my pocket). But then I got the chance to rejoice and the stupid feeling subsided. Old tools are like old friends that you have shared times with. Ciao

Looking at some old images I keep thinking how worth the effort it was painting those side plates. I've also been spending time addressing a lot of cosmetic stuff thats accessible with everything apart. Here's what the side plates used to look like. Ciao

As long as thats the only thing that gets blown when I hit the start button for the first time Ciao

Here's an image from MG cycles. My Mistrals were these ones and my bike was then and still is running the Stucchi cross over. As I said I liked everything about them except the over run sound. Might be ok with the std cross over, didn't think of that, but I'd rather change mufflers than sacrifice the Stucchi cross over. Ciao

I had Mistral reverse cone megaphones on my bike for a while. Loved the look but hated the whistling sound on the over run. On the throttle they sounded fine but on the over run they sounded like some old Norton fitted with pee shooters. And I definitely dont want my Italian V twin sounding like an old pommie 360 deg parallel twin. Ciao

If you want to return them to the original brushed finish after a long time then its a lot of work with a Scotchbrite wheel of fine sanding flap wheel with the headers off. I started it once and although the finish I was getting was nice the time factor made me give up. Personally If if it was really important to me i'd pull them and take them to a metal finisher and they'd clean them up in ten minutes. They'll just end up the same way in a short time though. Be interested to know any easy solutions as well. Ciao

Plenty of other life tasks to do docc. I've been chipping away at stuff working out orientation of the injectors so they clear the airbox and the other stuff crammed into the under tank area. For some reason I thought i could orientate them any direction to suit the wiring for the connector plug......wrong. So after much trial and error taking into consideration wiring length, connector plug clearance, airbox clearance, ability to remove the airbox without interference from the injectors and their plugs I settled on positioning that requires extending the cabling for the l/h injector. What a PITA, I hate doing this as it ends up with wiring with ridged points and its tricky with the loom on the bike space wise. I've had the airbox on and off about a Gagillion times checking clearances for the above plus the lay of the wiring loom which has been disturbed and the fuel line from the tank to the pump. I hate this stupid line with its lack of flexibility, It makes tank removal a pain and messy but I cant think of a cure. I bought an inline check valve for it but its too short to use as the CV takes up about 50mm in the line. Pulling the tank on the V11 is such a PITA Id love the later tank but its no go for mine. As I've mentioned before its a whole nother ball game putting together a "special" as compared to a stocker, nothing seems to go together easy:) Fitted up the rear end so progress is happening. Ciao