Jump to content

Lucky Phil

Members
  • Posts

    4,541
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    234

Everything posted by Lucky Phil

  1. You shouldn't be doing this with any clutch, wet,dry, car or motorcycle. It's a bad habit you should rid yourself of. Unnecessarily wears the throw out bearing, the engine thrust bearing, the pilot bearing( automotive) the clutch friction plate and flywheel faces/steel plates. Not good under any circumstances. Ciao
  2. The only parts that can be removed are the filter screen the attaching nut and the circlip on the end, you cant access the internals without machining/removing the crimped over top edge of the alloy operating knob. I have one of these pieces of total rubbish on the bench at the moment. I have 2 of these,one failed ( wouldnt shut off even with pliers) so I fitted the spare and its crap also. One issue is the crimped edge of the operating nut rubs on the tap body, this I rectified on the failed unit and it works much more smoothly. The major issue seems to be the seals actually swell when they contact fuel as the failed unit now its dried out for months seems to be smoother in operation and does actually close off fully now. Long story short they are rubbish quality. Ciao
  3. Thanks for the suggestions but they're a bit bigger than I was considering. I'm going to go with this and a pair of 90 degree AN-6 5/16 barb fittings. 55mm long and 32mm dia. Ciao
  4. Lucky Phil

    s-l1600.jpg

    From the album: V10 Engine

  5. Home of the Tennessee turnover eh, sounds vaguely sexual, combine with the Spanish reacharound ? no not really? Ciao
  6. No docc, no pods, I hate pods. I may need to lose the airbox snorkels as there is so little real estate even with the tank lifted. I need to move the regulator under the tank which is not my preference but with the oil cooler and hoses finding a spot for the reg on the front will mean long clumsy brackets that will be prone to cracking. So I've removed the fuel filter and am currently looking for a much smaller option there and with the tank raised there is more room and air circulation under the tank so the reg should be fine. I've seen Ducati regs mounted in much worse standard locations over the years. I'm looking for an efi fuel filter 50mm dia with 8mm/5/16 barbs that turn 90 degrees on each end. Maximum overall width 130mm. Its out there somewhere just need to find it. The other issue is the holes in the airbox for the Centauro inlet trumpets dont line up so I might either raise the hole by 10mm and plastic weld the bottom of the hole again or modify the inlet trumpets to the correct angle. Dont know if a Centauro airbox would work better and some stuff like intake trumpets are very hard to find so cutting them up is not my favourite option. Things to muse on. BTW the clutch seems to work:) Ciao
  7. Lucky Phil

    DSC00911.1.JPG

    Yes the motor and trans are both fully rebuilt. The engines from a Centauro and the gearbox from a V11.
  8. Forget pull the front wheel, it would pull the girls. Ciao
  9. Carb cleaner and a small dia pipe cleaner. Ciao
  10. I had a set of the cast ones on my bike for quite a while. The added benefit is they reduce the valve clatter quite a bit. Ciao
  11. So I've mocked up the bodywork on the V11 to see what the re-positioning of the tank looks like compared to the side panels and tail piece. The front of the tank needs to be raised 40mm, a little less if you jack up the rear of the tank. My bike had the rear of the tank shimmed up by 5 mm previously by me so the tank stopped rubbing on the side covers. What you see here is whats probably the final solution. rear raised 12 mm and the front 40mm. The down side is that it reduces the steering lock quite a bit, not terminally but more than you'd prefer. The limiting factor is the rear lower edge of the upper tripple clamp impinging on the tank at full lock. I can scollope out some on each side of the clamp without compromising strength and looks to gain a little back and the further back you have the tank the better. I'll still need to modify the stops with adjustment bolts though. The important lines of the top of the tank looks ok to me and the lower tank rear corner to side cover and tail unit interface look fine to me still. Ciao
  12. Yes 2 valve Grisso covers docc, although the ones in the image have had some slots machined in them. Std rocker gaskets although I used the special metal based ones ones Pete Roper sent me. I wouldn't go back to the old type.Cant remember the name of them,its in a thread of mine somewhere. Ciao
  13. My engine has these head covers as well. The HT wires are routed through the covers and the guards are standard. Ciao
  14. It wont be anything special on the dyno as its just a std Daytona/Centauro engine. Just a few more HP than the 2 valver. If I wanted performance I would have gone the Paul Minnaert route with the 1200 big bore, bigger valves and kit cams as he has done. No, mine is just going to be a sedate road engine. Ciao
  15. I'll need to see but the but the brackets hit the belt cover up close to where they attach to the cross bar. I'll probably need to remove them and fab up some new ones to move the reg. It will still be in the same area but probably slightly lower and more horizontal. Yes its important to keep them in the airflow. Ciao
  16. Progress, front subframe doesn't fit due to the horn/regulator brackets contacting the belt cover. I dont think bending the brackets will get me the clearance I need so I'll ponder it for a bit. Ciao
  17. Too right it is:) Its a Thor brand as well, very ballsy. Ciao
  18. What I didnt realise until I went back into the workshop was there is actually 2 hammers in the image, the other is a real copper soft faced unit. Ciao
  19. Didnt realise it had taken so long,lol. Not even a proper hammer either but a girly dead blow plastic thing. Ciao
  20. So the engine and gearbox are together after some confusion regarding a couple of the mounting studs. Seemed i'd lost 2 of the shorter studs but then realised the engine is originally mated up to a 5 speed box and the shorter studs were different. I robbed them off the 2 valve engine. The clutch push rod length seemed fine compared to the original and I used some dry molycote lube painted onto the clutch and gearbox splines sparingly. I use this on Ducati dry clutches as well to ease the wear factor. My neutral switch lasted zero time as it fell apart when my finger pushed sideways against it fitting the gearbox. Robbed that off the original gearbox as well. Ciao
×
×
  • Create New...