Lucky Phil

Can't remember John was one 3% everywhere and one 6%, can't remember. When I found out what they were I dismissed them as a bit of a joke at the time and I haven't got the spare brain capacity to retain details about junk. Clearly adding a flat %age over the entire map is not a tuning exercise worth paying a truck load of extra cash for. Ciao

Why? I don't think you can make those generalisations. I've run literall dozens of bikes over the years with everything from a pair of race cans to full race systems on the std maps and not one of them had a running issue, not one. As a matter of fact my Ducati 1198 has run a Mega expensive and beautiful Full titanium Akrapovic system for years as did the 1098 before it with no changes. Akrapovic even advise on their website no mapping changes required. Would any of them make better torque and power with a dyno tune? Almost certainly, but that doesn't mean they wont run well without mapping adjustments especially when just using on the road. I had people all over the place warning me my engine would blow up on the 1098 and 1198. I ignored them of course and both were used on the road and track without problems and carburated fine . As I said before the "kit ecu" thing is more a way of extracting additional money from customers and in the case of the Termi one was just a blunt instrument anyway just adding 3 or 6% everywhere, can't remember now. Just about everyone on this board running free flow mufflers would have done or is now running without any mapping changes including me when my bike had a std engine. Install the Mufflers and see how it runs. Ciao

A work colleague of mine bought a second hand low klm RX8 for his wife. All good till 80,000klm and he started complaining about very hard starting when cold. He did lots of work on it such as plugs, ignition leads other stuff, very frustrated. He eventually took it to a Mazda Rotary specialist. He walked in the door and saw 3 RX8's sitting there with the engines out. He explained to the specialist his issue and he said straight away, "yep it needs a rebuild". Apparently it's typical and the rotary engine and they only go around 75,000 klm before requiring new seals and rotors at the very least, so basically a full rebuild. The other three cars there were in for the exact same issue. He had it rebuilt and sold it off. I've driven an RX3 and it was quite awesome at the time but I don't think the Rotary is a practical proposition even in a track bike personally. Ciao

Nope, not the one I'm looking at. Here's the Delta image of the 2 maps, a std V11 Sport from 2000 and the Titanium 15M map. So a differences comparison between the 2. As you can see, variations are zero. Ciao Base map Titanium

What makes people thing these "special kit" ecu's and their "special mapping" are so "special". Ducati Termi kit ecu's were rubbish and just added fuel everywhere and you paid big bucks for the privilege of getting nothing. It was 99% marketing and feel good factor. This one has an extra 200rpm, big deal, it's a rounding error change. All ecu mapping is one big compromise as it's designed to work globally with different fuels and safe on all bike variables. Mapping a std ecu on an individual bike on a dyno is the only way to truly optimise the mapping. You can get decently close swapping custom maps but never optimal for each particular bike on local fuel. I've compared the std 2000 V11 mapping and the "Titanium" mapping and the only difference I can see is the Titanium mapping from 4000rpm and 36.8 degrees of throttle has between 3 and 5 deg more ignition advance, that's it. The rpm limit is the same as the std 2000 V11 Sport map. Massive waste of money from what I can see. Ciao

Here's one that does and what I use in my Daytona engine. Read the description also. I think on the Penrite sight these some good technical stuff from memory as well. You really need to dig and research more these days than you did 10 years ago. Back then it was all out there. https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/MC-4ST 10W-60 (100percent PAO & ESTER) .pdf

Yep, just. Ciao

A lower W number would be better docc, full Ester base of course. Now your engine is getting a few miles up it may be worth considering a 60 weight. Maybe a 10W-60. I run this in the Daytona engine and many use the 10W-60 in Germany. Ciao

True docc but there are so many bespoke oils now formulated for flat tappet engines specifically that don't compromise other areas there's really no need to use diesel oils anymore. Ciao

The missing link here in the data sheet is for the V11 is ZDDP (zinc) content for flat tappet engines. Phosphorous and sulphur from memory a a partial substitute but flat tappet oils usually have a minimum 1000ppm of zinc and the other two to help offset the reduction in zinc not replace it. Any oil designed to be kind to a CAT converter isn't going to be kind to flat tappets. Ciao

Wanted. Ciao

I believe this is the way it works. Its sleeved on one end to reduce the bearing ID and provides a shoulder as well for bearing spacing. the other end is flush up against the opposite bearing inner race. I've seen this technique on other wheels and it's what the parts book seems to indicate on this model as opposed to the later model with 2 25mm ID bearings and the usual flush ended spacer with a radial control ring on the OD. Ciao

Take the weight off the front with a jack under the engine and loosen off all the triple clamp bolts including the stem clamp bolt, wheel clamp bolts, front guard bolts, brake calliper bolts and axle then grab the wheel between your legs and jiggle the bars from side to side to release any tension and tighten up the triple clamp bolts then the stem clamp bolt then the axle nut drop the weight back onto the front wheel pump the forks up and down with your weight and then tighten up the axle clamp bolts the calliper mount bolts and the front guard mount bolts. Ciao

I just recorded the sum total of my Fork knowledge to date in my personal "data base", here's a copy. There is of course much more to know and for me to learn. Any additional data appreciated. KR…1999-2001. 40mm forks with 54mm stanchions and 25X20 axle and retaining nut. Free length 750mm. Silver stanchions and wheel bearings of 20 and 25mm ID with an internal axle spacer with a sleeve section for the 25mm ID bearing. Non Cartridge type damper. Comp and rebound damping on different legs, no preload adjustment. KS…2001-2002/3. 40mm forks with 54mm stanchions and NO retaining nut and a threaded L/H fork leg. Free length 750mm. Different axle (probably length) of 25X20. Wheel bearing 20 and 25mm ID and a sleeved internal wheel spacer for the larger ID bearing. Black stanchions and lowers. Cartridge type damper. Comp and rebound damping on different legs, no preload adjustment. KT…2002/3 onwards. 43mm forks with 54mm stanchion WITH retaining nut and no threaded leg. Free length 769mm (clip-ons moved to top of triple clamps) Black stanchions and lowers. Axle 30X25mm and wheel bearings both 25mm ID and internal wheel bearing spacer NOT sleeved. Cartridge type damper. Comp and rebound damping on different legs, no preload adjustment. Triple clamp offset changed slightly with the “long frame”. Ciao

Here's some interesting translated info from a German site I'm also on. I'm quoting from a long time poster there who was in the motorcycle business in Europe apparently. Probably not worth getting too carried away with "numbers" and "specialness" in the Guzzi world. Same with Ducati, there're Italian, the "Limited edition" and "model production numbers" rules are lets say, flexible. "It's like with the elves, the first 300 Rosso Mandello were limited with number and certificate, the next hundreds were only limited editions without numbers, Scura supposedly built the same only 600 pieces, we had the number 672 in the store at that time"

My knowledge on this is sketchy hence my recent research on the matter. Notice the 2 different P/N's for the axle. I suspect those are the numbers for the first KR bikes with the axle nut and for your bike with the threaded fork on the LHS. Two different axles. The later KT bikes has a different axle again or 25mm with once again a nut on the end and no threaded fork. It's this 2001-2002 period that the 40mm forks changes and then they went to the 43mm forks once again with the nut retention for the KT variant. I believe a 2003 bike should have the later 43mm forks and a retaining nut style axle and 25mm bearings on each side and a plain inner wheel spacer but the "Model year" confusion around this time which I thought was an American thing with 2002 left over bikes re designated 2003 or something so I don't take "model years" too seriously. If anyone has a pair of 43mm fork legs and an axle for sale I'd be interested. Ciao

Is this the original front end on this bike? IE the original wheel, forks and axle? I'm betting it's not. I happen to be looking at this subject as we speak. For starters the V11's have 3 types of front forks and 2 different axles at least . KR,KS and KT models all vary in their fork design and wheel retention and yes there are different bearings on earlier and later bikes and the earlier bikes have a sleeved inner spacer due to the bearing ID variation. Earlier have a 20mm and 25mm id bearing and later look to have 25 on both sides because later KT bikes have a 25mm dia axle not 20mm of earlier bikes. They also went from an axle nut to no axle nut and back to an axle nut again and went 40mm,40mm, 43mm. Ciao

You have either the wrong spacer or the wrong axle. What is the minor diameter of your axle? Ciao

Thats it docc. Opening the hole is no problem but grinding away the steel bracket to give clearance for the larger cap screw head is a pain unless you have a mill and then it would be straight forward. It's not obvious in the image. Ciao

Actually Pete there is one semi significant difference. Some have an 8mm side stand bracket threaded mount bolt hole and some have a 6mm bolt which can be a bit of a pain if you have the wrong one as I did when I did the V10 Sport. Didn't realise until I went to refit the side stand bracket. It's not straight forward opening up the 6mm side stand bracket hole to accommodate the 8mm cap screw head. Not without a mill anyway. Ciao

I'm not interested in using an oil that doesn't supply a TDS with ALL the information. The TDS's you often see these days dont list ZDDP content and other details. No details, no sale. I use a group 4 10W-60 in my Centauro engine and a 0W-40 Group 4 in the V11 engine. Ciao

Mobil1 is a full group 4 synthetic docc. Mobil invented group 4 oils from memory. Ciao