Lucky Phil

I've never found anything that will remove the yellowish oil stain from silver engine paint after long exposure. Ciao

That's a question for the factory cause that's what they did and the answer is a simple one. It's more in their interest the bolts never come out unintentionally than it is to make any replacement/maintenance straight forward. Future maintenance years or miles down the track is of zero concern to the factory. As a matter of fact if components get damaged during future maintenance then they make money out of spares. Witness the Weber throttle bodies 5mm screws fitted with green Loctite for goodness sake. Weber have zero concern for anyone disassembling them in years to come but are quite interested that screws dont loosen any time in the near future which may bite them. Blue Loctite would be understandable but Green just says "we have zero regard for future maintenance" Ciao

Lovely. You know docc for me the sound and "feel" of a vehicle are massively important and why if I'm forced into a situation where every vehicle I own has to be an EV I'll just find another hobby/interest. Don't mind an EV Daily Driver in the slightest as a conveyance to get me from A to B but I could never become an EV "enthusiast". Too much character missing. As an aside my car has FENG ( fake engine noise generator) which is fake exhaust sound through the audio system, totally pathetic and it doesn't really need it anyway. That's maybe the EV future, a fake " emotional" system. You'll be taking your car to the mechanic because it "doesn't feel good" and he'll reboot the "emotion" generator. God help us all. Ciao

Sounds feasible. Something like this may work but why not buy an original Ohlins and do as I suggested. Take the guess work out of it. https://www.suspension.com/9.9149

Sound more like an opportunity than a shame. Ciao

Top is rebound bottom is compression. Guzzi manuals are riddled with mistakes some of which are translation related and some because they obviously get the girl in the office fresh out of he Literature degree to create them. "Hey, isa justa words and pictures for the anglo's" Ciao

It's about the "look" docc. That's the real reason mine has one. Ciao

Yep, but the important thing is to apply equal opposing force to the plastic fitting when you are pushing and pulling on the hose during the process. Ciao

Those connectors aren't really suitable for a hose and clamp situation docc. The locking collar is quite high and a long way onto the projection so you've got a lot of hose to push onto the projection over the retaining collar section ( which would be hard unless you reduced it's dia a bit) and then a hose clamp at the end without a lot of room left. Too much on a delicate fitting. It seems they work ok if you know the technique for releasing them and make sure you support the fitting when removing and refitting the QR hose. People break them by using poor technique and being ham fisted. You can buy after market metal versions but they are expensive. ciao

Yes, you can damage the shock internally if it bottoms out. Ciao

The bump stop. It's what prevents damage to the shock internals when it bottoms out. You need to remove the spring and the eye end to replace it and removing the eye end is no joke even for a "shock expert". It involves heating the eye end to get it hot enough to to release the thread locker then a shaft holding tool, sometimes even in a shop press to hold the shock shaft to undo the eye end. I would cut a shallow groove around the perimeter of a new bumper that will accommodate an electrical tie wrap then cut it so you can spread it and slip it over the shaft and use the tie wrap to clamp it in place again. Ciao

Seems doable Will the seat still fit? they run close to the base. Ciao

Yes docc. I was looking at the RE wiring diagram wondering about their relay load sharing as they use identical units however they only use 4 relays one of which is for accessories. The main difference is the fuel pump relay only does the fuel pump and the main relay supplies the fuel pump power and switch and the ecu. The coils are supplied via the ignition switch and kill switch directly and a fuse. That relieves a relay of the highest load from the coils, some 16 amps. The odd RE's exhibit mystery intermittent shut down for no apparent reason and I was wondering if they suffered from a relay that was loaded to the limit and therefore no headroom but it seems not. Maybe an overloaded ignition switch contact, if the contact is less than pristine from manufacture? Ciao

Of course one solution is to add another dedicated relay for the coils or fuel pump. Should be room. Ciao

Thanks docc. I re read my old post and managed to confuse even myself. Ciao

The later in tank pump tank is a sensible mod and one I wanted to do myself but I found it won't fit a short frame bike without the forks hitting the tank. Others disagreed somehow and reckoned it was "no issue". I never found out how it was "no issue" The advantage of the in tank pump is it's a whole lot neater for the injector hosing and far more "integrated". The downside is the loss of the Chin Pad "character". it's quite a bit longer around 60mm from memory and all forward of the front mount to fill in the extra gap created by the frame extension behind the steering head. I posted images and figure a while back. Ciao

I know Pete, I wasn't doubting his methodology just offering alternative thoughts. I spoke to Mark before I transposed the .bin file from a 16M to the 15M asking for his thoughts on the logic of my plan and he surprisingly said, sure that should work, be fairly simple. I say surprisingly because others with very capable knowledge about these things weren't supportive of the plan at all. The rest is history and good old "Aussie Logic" won out. Ciao

I'm a believer in an assembly of the correct parts makes the designated model. I'm not one of the "it must have matching numbers" people so assembling a bike from parts is fine by me it's just in this case being neither fish nor fowl could cause it to have a lesser value which wouldn't be fair to an unwitting buyer. BTW here's my latest "non greenie" addition thanks to KINDOY2. My bike doesn't know what the hell it is.

I'm sure he was, lol. Multi Guzzis assembled in one location Ciao

Yes I found the same issue with the Electrosport connectors. Ciao

Well spotted on the plugged subframe holes docc Ciao

He could have tried playing with the engine temp trim which you can adjust as a % for each temp break point so richen it up when it's cold. Also there's the option of the start enrichment map which enriches the fuel delivery for 4000 engine revolutions which is around 3 min running until it gets some temp into it. These parameters make a massive difference to cold start and running as I found out when I used the V11 2 valve engine temp break points and warm up trim initially on my Centauro engine. With the much larger and completely different 4 valve head design the engine temp trim % and break points were totally wrong for the Centy engine and it was nearly impossible to start and ran poorly until up to around normal engine operating temp. At or around normal engine temp it ran very well but starting and cold were really bad. Ciao

Well it may be a good bike as long as they're aware it's a Bitza. Ciao