Lucky Phil

Well some claim you can pull the pump fuse and start the engine on the residual pressure to bleed it off. Personally I just loosen off the regulator hose with a rag around the joint. Even with 3 bar pressure you get SFA out of it. There's only maybe 100ml in the hose between the pump and the reg and as we know from school science with an uncompressible liquid you only need a miniscule reduction in the volume to dump the pressure. Ciao

Well of course the other suggestions are valid but it depends on when you checked the head temps. The only real way is on the move riding. As soon as you stop other variable come into play. My bike also runs a little different temp one side to another but its also in the nature of the engine architecture. That's why the right cylinder fuel map is different to the left which is the base map and the right has corrections based on the left. The right cylinder's header pipe and intake are different lengths compared to the left due to the cylinder offset due to side by side rods. You can of course adjust the right cylinder offset via Tunerpro. Here's the offset map for a std V11 Sport map MY2000 showing the different injector pulse times compared to the Left cylinder. Left cylinder base map. Ciao

That's not their main advantage, their main advantage was their ability to take a lot of damage and still keep flying and pilot protection. The big air cooled turbocharged radial was much better at taking hits than the vulnerable liquid cooled Mustang Spitfire etc. Here's an interesting account by Robert S Johnson of an encounter with an FW190 https://realhistory.co/2018/05/23/robert-s-johnson-p47-thunderbolt/ Ciao

For beauty I'd fly the Griffon Spitfire but if I actually wanted the best chance of surviving WW2 as a fighter pilot it would have been the P47 Thunderbolt hands down. Ciao

The whole Southern part of the state is getting this way now. Try taking a drive in the Yarra Vally these days. I'm a local and up until a few years ago you could go for a quiet Sunday ride into Yarra Valley and stop at a winery for a nice lunch and glass of wine no worries. Now you need to book a week in advance no matter where you go at any time of the year and the traffic is like peak hour in the city. Nothing like sitting in a 1 klm long traffic jam on a country road in the middle of grazing land on a Sunday morning at a small intersection that until 5 years ago saw about 20 cars a day. Ciao

One of the most overrated rides/drives in the country in my view. Ciao

It's a lot of miles and 20 years ago I wouldn't have given it a second thought when Guzzi spares were plentiful and cheap but these days I don't know. If you can buy it and it runs ok and you don't want to put any real miles on it then sure. But if you want to get it back to being really nice and ready for another 100K miles then it's a costly and somewhat painful endeavour. Cant remember if the T3 had the chrome bores or not. The original T certainly did as I bought a new set in England in the mid 80's for my BIL's bike. My other Brother in Law (his brother) actually owned a T3 as it happens. If it has Chrome bores then they need to be replaced asap. Ciao

Ok well everybody seems to have a AH3000 story so here goes mine. I was filling my car up at the servo about 6 weeks ago and there was one filling up there also. As I walked out from paying it's owner was going in to pay. "Nice Healy" I said, a 3000 is that right. Yep and thanks he said and kept on walking. A metallic powder blue it was. That's all I've got. Ciao

Looks like I'm the only one who hasn't owned one of these:) Ciao

14.73 would be to high for an PC545 I think. Whats the charge rate with the revs up? Ciao

No docc it's not. That's just another possible catastrophe:) Nostalgia...a sentimental longing or wistful affection for a period in the past. I sometimes like the period but try and separate that from the "engineering" The engineering is "of it's time" and locked there forever. Hard to get too sentimental over the mechanical abominatios from the past I've had to engineer my way around at times. I see old bikes getting around these days and they get my attention and I like the fact that people still restore and fettle them, just glad it's not me is all. Ciao

Too much nostalgia with regards to vehicles. Problem is the markets so distorted these days esp the US market now the middle class has all but evaporated. The market seems to be driven not by wealthy people as it used to be with the sacrificing middle classes in with a chance but by the, not just wealthy, but the obscenely wealthy setting the bar. I view old vehicles as something "of their time" and ignore the silly money they attract these days. A modern motorcycle or car is such a superior piece of engineering why would you spend silly money buying what is by todays standards a piece of shit. Seriously? Why would you spend a $100,000 or more on a "Green frame" Ducati from 72 when for less money you could buy yourself a Modern Classic Ducati like a Panagale Superleggera that will eventually appreciate just as much in the future and is a million times better piece of motorcycle engineering to start with. Same with cars pretty much, which over here the self managed superannuation have driven the price of frankly horrible old 4 door V8 sedans from the 70's through the roof. Senseless.

Nope Ciao

You start with getting the engine running and putting a multi-meter on the battery terminals and seeing if you get around 13.8 to 14.2 volts when the engine is revved to say 2500 rpm. Ciao

I wouldn't recommend that for a few reasons. Firstly it will make dressing out the damage more difficult but more importantly it makes it impossible to wrap the perforated tube with woven glass/cloth which you need to do when re packing. It's not a good idea to just stuff glass wool down the can without the woven glass around the perforated section because the wool will blow out faster and the tiny loose wool fibres get sucked back into the cylinder on the overrun at the right revs. Not that it's going to do any real damage but best to avaoid that. Ciao

Good idea docc, might try that next time I have the battery out. Ciao

Ok thanks Chuck. I was very surprised at how tight the original base was on my bike. I made a simple aluminium extension strap so the runner battery strap wasn't pulled so tight and that wouldn't allow the seat to clip down because the metal ring on the rubber strap now sat flat on the battery top, sheez. I tried my later seat and it definitly has more under seat clearance to things and a simpler cleaner detail design. Ciao

Well not really, the base is plastic. It's a very tight fit the base clearance on these things esp the first version of the seat on the early bikes. Any contact marks on the seat base? I might consider this mod myself if the clearance is there. Ciao

Do the connectors/cap screws contact the seat base Chuck? Ciao

Ok. but was it a a pressure spray of fuel under 45psi or a gush of fuel from the line draining? you always get a stream of fuel when you pull the reg hose and depending on circumstances its either a constant trickle for some times or if its got air behind it a bit more of a flow situation. Ciao

I personally use moly grease here. The rational for locking washers with tabs isn't to prevent the loss of torque on the nut it's to retain the nut and stop a total catastrophe until the issue is isolated and that's often through routine maintenance checks. They are old and somewhat unreliable technology. Personally I think Loctite is a far better way to go on most stuff like this with the lock washer as the backup. I've seen the internal tab on the lock washer broken or partially broken many times during the torquing up but you tend not to notice unless you put a witness mark on the lock washer and the housing when you torque up. That way you can see if the internal tab has deformed or broken. Ciao

Very good Pete. I recently had dealings with a lovely little stainless steel strap around 6 or 8mm wide and probably .2 thick plain finished with a small incorporated fitting on the end I had no idea of its workings. It was a very nice and compact and you slid the end of the strap into the fitting and it held tight as tight. Inside that little end fitting I later found out is a tiny ball bearing that wedges the strap. Is this the style you need? I was later told its the same design as a CV joint boot retainer. Very cool thing. Not reusable though. Ciao

Oh ok. Could you get some Loctite on the nut? You could use some wick in 290 on the nut even drop by drop on the end of a thin screwdriver. It's specifically designed to be applied after a fastener is tightened and it wicks it's way down the threads. It wont tell you if it's lost its preload ( but there's other ways to do that I'm guessing) but it will prevent loosening. Ciao