czakky
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Posts posted by czakky
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I whole heartedly agree!
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I read air temp sensor yesterday cold and of course It read at around 115 in the 2k range. I'll try that resistor.
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What frame is that? one-off?
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R and D, small production runs (especially for Guzzi's), it's an accessory for a luxury item plus it's external so it's gotta look purdy. That's my un-educated guess.
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Maybe try Guzzitech, always a lot of Carc bike stuff there.
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I bet Bjorn could answer that.
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I suppose then Docc that I could just short a wire across the contacts to the said tester bulb?
I just wasn't sure if you knew that it was a hot engine. I'll check it cold again but last time it read normal I believe. Something tells me I need a new air temp sensor.
Couple more tests first. Besides, I wanna ride around with a bulb taped to my dash.
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Docc, that is a hot engine. So sorta bad...
Ok first thing Roy is I'll check flow which I'm pretty sure is good . Then onto the petcock fuse which I do have a manual one on there so thus my confusion. Just to verify my bike is actually stable at higher revs but dies when idling down and then loses power until up into the 3k range when well warmed. Got the PM
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To test the ECU I should wrap some wire around the fuel pump fuse? To a small bulb like from a turn signal or the like?
Guess I am not sure how to measure PSI at the fuel pump. If I understand the fuel pump system on these bikes the fuel pump works like an air compressor only running when pressure is needed?
The air temp sensor is right where Luigi put it. Whe I got the 34.5 reading it was probably around 72f/22c so nothing extreme bike had died a couple times and was just through some stop n go traffic. Don't know why resistance is so low. There is a very minscule tear on the red coating of the element on the actual sensor. Its always been there and never gave it much thought.
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Roy, the 30 ohm reading was after a ride as soon as I could get a reading just to check that it was dropping resistance.
Will check ECU voltage
I can check that too. Any amount specifically that should flow? Can't remember last time I accidentally checked that....
The reason I had cleaned the contacts on the fuel pump is because every tenth or so time the pump primes it makes a weird sound usually half way through priming. After cleaning the contacts (again) it seems to be doing it less but still occasionally. It's always done it and besides the noise there has never been an issue.
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Hey Foto, no tank suck I checked it a few times when I was having problems.
about the injectors I don't really either but I'm running out of things to check.
No charcoal canister was removed shortly after I bought her, I did recently "Y" the fuel lines together but like I said no noticable tank suck.
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Thanks for getting us back on track so quickly!
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Picking up where we left off....
Idle dies when warm (twenty plus mins. run time) after recent maintenance including:
Wire harness grooming
airbox/air temp sensor grooming
front crank seal replace
grooming fuel pump power supply/coil power supply
timing sensor o-ring replacement/wire leak fix
Valves/TPS are in spec
Fuel filter is new
air filter is new
lotsa' insulation round my external fuel pump/lines
fuel tank breather lines seem to be kink free
Kiwi_Roy sent me an awesome resistance test chart through the ECU and everything seemed fine there.
The only thing left that the board had recommended for me to check was the injectors themselves...
Which probably won't get done for a few days. I have been reading "Guzziology" for the last week or so and have noticed that some of my symptoms are similar to advanced timing... Thoughts? My bike has from day one (in my ownership) sounded like there was some rattling going on when the throttle is rolled on hard under load only at certain speeds/RPM. Nothing too noticeable but audible through a helmet.
Throwing some more info out there into my abbreviated recap of a lost thread. Sorry if this is confusing and thanks for any help.
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Pretty sure it's gonna be the inner.
Is the spacer inside the box supposed to float like it is on mine? Part #01356930
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I had run into you at the ducati dealer the other weekend. The Bald guy who was talking your ear off.... That's me.
On my cable both ends were 20mm O.D. on the knurled part they look like your new cable.
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The seal going from shaft into the final drive on the final drive looks clean.
Is a little weeping like my photo normal?
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Green Magni fairing? Black and brutal looking naked 1100 Sport?...
Anyway snap a pic and I/we can compare what we have. Label male and female ends.
Bill
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Shite weather, so she's comin apart today in preparation for my soon to be trip. Found this
BTW the blue is the 80w red line gear oil. Now I have the red line heavy in there (red) and there doesn't seem to be much of a leak. Ignore the reddish brown grease that's supposed to be there. Also when I removed the old oil it was the exact amount I had put in.
My questions are what is/was leaking?
Also is it still leaking? As I don't see any red oil?
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I don't know what to say about that... I didn't hate it, strange times in Ukraine....?
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Yessir, that seal. A 90 degree pick and side cutters. Glad to have it out too, because the thin spring looking ring from the lip of the seal had detached and could've wreaked havoc back there.
I don't know if an old seal would have come out so easy but this one is a couple months and 1k or so miles old.
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With a fresh seal it is possible to replace without removing the timing cover. Which only makes it slightly easier. But it's in.
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Cycle Gear stocks the V-twin stuff. This board sold me on th Red Line and I can't justify ordering gear oil online, since you never know when I might feel like changing trans. fluid.
I believe I know some folks like that too... Rare product purveyors that is.
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Funny enough yesterday I had just posted that the "V-twin w/ Shockproof" is apparently the same as the "Heavy w/ Shockproof". This seems to be a real popular gear oil 'round here not to mention seemingly fixes most everything V11 related.
Nice plate BTW.
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With Shock proof. Exhibit A: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=119&pcid=13 Last bullet point
Exhibit B: http://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/522630-redline-heavy-shockproof-or-v-twin-tranny-with-shockproof-2.html not saying this is 100% valid but seems legit.
Barely alive II
in Technical Topics
Posted
Could I have damaged my multimeter? Everything on K_Roy's ECU test point chart is reading around 115-150 ohm's... Sooo confused with this now.