czakky
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Posts posted by czakky
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maybe he's making a wrench?
Proper nut and a piece of steel... Presto! manhole cover wrench!
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Uh oh, Docc don't tell us you've got the Carc bug?
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Yeah, we don't have roads like that here in FL....
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Very true about the critters. How's the weather usually towards the end of April? I'm not planning on staying dry or totally warm, but i'm happy to have two-three days of good weather within a week.
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Are you running GPS on the Guzzi?
I've got it, but when I'm "touring" I like to use maps.
Ive never heard anybody talk about this road but try to hit it every time im near the Smokies.Docc you know about this,..?
Logged.
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Awesome, exactly the insight I was looking for.
@LowRyter: I'm gonna have to check out Wheels through time and research the Suches area.
@mzync: I'll try and hit Deal's gap during the week. No wife on this one, she hasn't ridden with me for any distant since I had my old cb750 about 6 years ago. Doesn't sound like there are any bad options once into N. GA. Hopefully the Guzzi does better then my old cb750 (which on the trip that is on my avatar we ended up having to bypass the starter solenoid w/ a screw driver all the way through Ontario. But that's another story) and reliability is a concern. Can't freakin wait!!
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Some time around the end of April/ beginning of May I'm taking some time and going to beat the he** out of my V11(in a good way). I'll be heading out of the Tampa Bay area of FL heading north through GA into SC and spending some time in the Pisgah Nat'l Forest of NC. After that it's time to boogie on with my chubby dance partner, no planned route and the better part of a week to earn those merit badges the authorities hand out.
So that's where I need help, because when you've been living in FL for a few years and see a map with all these squiggly lines it gets a bit overwhelming. You guys have super secret merit badge free roads and I won't tell. I'm looking to possibly go as far north as WV splitting nights in a tent and at low-brow seedy motels. What should I check out? Where are the good rides? I've never been to this part of the country and in case you can't tell I can't freakin wait!
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How do you manage that, docc?And, after a careful cleaning and inspection, I see I have busted yet another (number three) of this side stand "lever:"
new meaning to Leadfoot
Thanks to this thread I realize now that my bike is missing the nut behind the pivot bolt..
There isn't much thread on that plate, lucky it's held up at all.
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I agree. Is that a vintage endurance racer look?
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I'm not sure if this is obvious or not, to me it wasn't. But just so somebody else can avoid potential disaster I thought I'd share.
The pivot bolt bolt on the sidestand (the one that actually goes through the stand) is actually threaded into the plate that is bolted onto the lower sump case. Behind those threads is a teflon locking nut. In order for the pivot bolt to work correctly it has to be tight into the plate then the locking nut can be tightened. My stand was a little loose and the bike leaned a little far over, nothing crazy just a little more then say a non-Harley. It was like that from the day I got it 4k miles ago, and I'm sure I tightened that nut and pivot bolt figuring that it was just designed that way. Eventually the threads wore through from pivoting on them and low and behold I was almost under my bike, (or as I call her the chubby mistress) I prefer to be on top in this situation.
Not sure if I've beat a dead horse but it only takes a quick second to check and while I'm waiting on a backordered part thought I'd heed warning to some of the other non V11 veterans out there.
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That Scura in Seattle is a pretty fair deal. The Greenie is sweet too! I just don't understand why you see so many v11s with such low miles....
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I just read the Cycle World (or some mag) review of the Daytona, last night. Someone over at Wildguzzi had it posted ("I'll show you mine if you show me yours" is the name of the thread btw). I didn't realize that this was the last time Guzzi was almost modern, atleast judging by the review.
Either way Me Wants!
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I didn't mean to sound like I thought it the price was outrageous, Harper's seems like a very fair company. I just wanted to see if anyone had ever sourced one from something else. It was more a matter of waiting for shipping and I figured some other bikes look like they have real similar bolts.
Anyway after messing with the "Rube Goldberg" setup (mine actually includes a hamster wheel that launches a bowling ball to retract the stand... really nifty) seems like you guys, as usual are right. I'm putting in my order to Harper's.
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The only problem with what dlaing did was that it catches the dogbone. So you either have a self retracting stand or a self extending stand.
I didn't catch the clearance issue. I thought it was an assembly thing....
Either way it will be well lubed. Also, the Ford econo... Is real close, but not quite right
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Anybody ever source a pivot/shoulder bolt for the side stand (24mm head 16mm shoulder/pivot 10mm 1.25 thread)? MG doesn't sell them and Harper's wants $24. My $12 bushing washer combo worked as well as another poster: Dlaing's did. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13174&hl=%2Bsidestand+%2Bpivot+%2Bbolt
Tried a hondapriliamahan-am dealer with nothing close.
Mine broke immediately after posting about the great character of the V11. Bike was caught and wrestled onto shop stand both parties are ok.
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Clever, those Bavarians! "R-nine-T"
I'd like to hook a ride on one and get the feel. Biggest difference in specification is the 12:1 compression. Should make the boxer really *pop*, but well see. I really wanted to like the R1100S, but couldn't wait to get back on the Sport.
Maybe this Bavarian is different .
I had the same experience with an R1100s. Before I bought my V11, I couldn't explain why... real torquey, seemed to handle well, wasn't crazy about the look. I just didn't connect with it. I've heard somebody somewhere describe these bikes as "organic" which makes no sense but is absolutely true.
I first saw an 00' V11 sport at a guzzi dealer in 00' and I had to ride a few bikes before I got my hands on one (Lemans actually) but it's too right too be wrong.
Didn't mean to threadjack, I'm sure the new BMW is awesome but my/our bike is better.
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I'll keep riding and check again in another 300 miles or so. After all a crank seal is peanuts compared to a new rotor/stator. Hence my paranoia.
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Yeah, that is ridiculously cheap. I've noticed a few of their parts off the diagram are "too good to be true" cheap.
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Hey if we say it enough maybe they'll start listening at the factory!
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Preliminary results might have been inconclusive.... Looks like my gasket might actually be holding! Which is good. But, Emry was pretty sure I had screwed up my first crank seal.
Get two cranks seals. You have already screwed up the installed one, you might not get the first replacement, just... right... so that way you have another available while the process is fresh in your head. Saves you a bit of waiting for the mail.
Took off the alternator cover after I've put around 300 miles and it doesn't seem to be leaking...
Should I stop being lazy and just fix it? Or have the gods smiled on me and given me a pass?
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Are you sure it's the lamp, the switches are known to fail on a regular basis, short the switch terminal to ground to test the lamp.
No I'm not sure but I assumed it would be easiest to check the bulb first, key word "assumed". Also, even after all my electrical issues I have never seen my generator/battery light come on and I though someone said that it's supposed to go on when key is in the on position?? Plus I had just washed my bike and water likes to sit in that dash panel. But either way I just thought I'd get in there and take a looksee.
Here are some pictures, the first 4 show the assembly.
There are brass inserts in the plastic which is split on mine but I am still able to take the screws out.
Remove the back off the dash and pop out the lamp assembly so you can take off the clear plastic cover and filter to access the lamps.
From memory I grabbed the brass insert with needle nose pliers from the rear (picture 4) while unscrewing the allen screws, they come out easy now.
To remove the lamps once you get the cover off slip a little tubing over them, this allows you to grip the glass with needle nose pliers.
You can also wiggle the rubber lamp holder out the back.
Awesome, those pics help! wasn't sure if it was two pieces or not. Even if I can get two screws I'm sure I can get that third one out. Not sure if I'm ready for the LED upgrade yet. My lights are actually pretty bright now since you helped me save my electrical system this summer!
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My idiot/oil light went out today (hopefully) and when I went to try and take the cover off the plastic dash panel, the three little 3mm allen heads would just spin and spin. The schematics don't show any nut so these aluminum screws must be tapped right into the plastic? Is there any trick to getting these out? Or am I just screwed?
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Really enjoying these. Thanks!
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"camp carlo" haha I get it...
Dash Lights
in Technical Topics
Posted
Thanks once again K_Roy, man of all things electric.
After testing the oil pressure switch (it worked) now it seems to be working fine. So my guess is either a bad connection at the dash (haven't been in there yet....still) or maybe a fading switch? I have never had one off so I don't know how simple/complex it is but I'll get around to it. The generator light isn't as much of a bother plus I just got all the wiring wrapped up after messing with my TC gasket, but I now know how to check it.