sp838

$15 each is a big markup. You should be able to find the pair for that on ebay.

According to Stein Dinse, the fuel filler is the same for all v11 models.

I'd like to know too. My guess is it's the Triumph/Aprilia version... There is also this product: http://www.lightechuk.com/lightech-fuel-tank-cap-with-rapid-locking-guzzi-griso-13147-p.asp

Gonna do it in stages. I'll balance the crank-flywheel-piston package when my clutch eventually blows up and will need to be re-done.

Mike Rich pistons are lighter than stock, by about 6g each. Don't know about the Carrillo rods yet. If I do this, I'll first do it on my crank as-is, see how it works out. If it ends up being ok, all the better, if not then I will bite the bullet and pull it. I have a recommendation for a shop that can do it, that isn't the biggest concern...

So, as one thing always seems to lead to another, looking into upgrading the pistons in the V11 has also led to investigating the con-rods. The recommendation is, when swapping out both the con-rods and pistons, to re-balance the whole package. Looking at the workshop manual, it looks like the entire engine has to be disassembled in order to get it out. At least, to do it "right". Does anyone know if there is a quick and dirty way to get it out, without removing the engine from the frame, and without breaking the transmission off the backside of the crank case? Mainly a rhetorical question, as I'm almost sure the answer is "no", but I am curious to know what, if any, workarounds to complete disassembly might exist.

thanks motoguzznix, sending now

moto fugazzi, that's a very interesting idea, I'll look into it. The Breva 1100 has twin plugs, for instance... From what I've read so far, an across the board 8º retard on the spark would work just fine, and will be a good starting point. Fine tuning the actual ignition map is something that I think would be best done on a dyno. Mike Rich's piston are far far superior to stock, and cost as much, or less, than it would cost me to machine the gasket surfaces on the heads and on the cylinder jugs. Not gonna do that, it's a poor solution really.

thanks guys. gonna download the software and mess around to familiarize myself with it. I have a PCIII, the fueling was tuned on a dyno so not worried about that yet. just need to retard the spark by 8°. I'll probably need to bring it back for another dyno session after installing them anyway. Now I am wondering if I should pop some higher compression pistons on as well, while I have the heads off...

ok, just found this in the How To which is pretty helpful: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15835&hl=%2Bdual+%2Bplug The main issue I am concerned with is how to retard the spark. It does sound from this post that the spark can be delayed in the ECU. Is this something that can be done with the Guzzi Diag software? Should I get the myECU? ECU wizards, care to shed some light on this?

Anyone here done it? Tips, tricks, words of advice or caution? What coils are you using? What did you do to retard the spark, was it mechanical or was it done with the ECU? Very curious to hear about your experience with this. Thanks!

I do use Amsoil and almost never ride in the rain, at least not intentionally...

Thanks guys. Gonna take your advice and keep the system as is for now, it's really mostly a cosmetic issue. My filter on the line coming out of the top of the spine is clean, so nothing seems to be wrong with the way it's working. The hoses are annoying but the system works, so until I come up with some genius idea, it will stay...

How much oil does it kick out? Yes, I wanted to get rid of all the lines, the big crank breather hose itself, as well as the return line. I have already removed the airbox and fitted a filter to the end of the little vent hose. Works fine. But I'd like to get rid of all of them. I won't do it if it will comprise the running of the engine, or if it will be spewing oil all over the bike, but if it's a small amount, then I'd be fine with changing the filter and topping off the oil every X amount of miles...

anyone done it? I am replacing the tank on my '01 with a later model, internal pump tank. was thinking it would be nice to get rid of all those lines while I was at it. I was thinking I could just run a shorter hose backwards with a little filter on the end of it. If anyone has some experience doing this, please let me know. Thanks as always!

this is the parts manual for the '02, with exploded diagrams and part numbers: http://simonpotter.tv/guzzi/spare_parts_catalog_v11_lemans_2002.pdf

Nice site, thanks for posting. I'll keep that handy.

Ok, so I found these guys in the TPS breakout harness thread: http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/index.php?cPath=67_71_69 Any way to check, other than eyeball-o-metrics, whether one of these will fit?

Anyone know where to get OEM electric connectors? I am looking to make some modifications/simplifications to the harness and would like to keep the stock connectors. First thing I am doing is swapping my tank out for a later model one with the internal pump and filter. The new pump has the same connector on it as the solenoid petcock on the old one, which I am seeking to get rid of. The pump itself is simply wired in. I would like to get the correct plastic connector and have the pump wires from the harness connect to the new internal pump in the tank. I could just cannibalize the old connectors but I'd rather not butcher the parts since they are in good working order and might be useful to someone else. Forgive me if this has already been covered, if so please point me to the thread... Thank you, and happy Turkey Day to all!

Gonna take it off to check the flange.

Could it be something as stupid as not being tightened down enough? Pretty sure I did get them nice and snug, and I tend to be one of those ham fisted over tightening types. I just can't imagine how the line itself can leak like that, but I guess anything's possible. If the line is indeed shot, I will build my own using Earl's Performance plumbing parts I think.

Yes, replaced all the crush washers with new ones from Harper Moto. The oil doesn't appear to be coming from there, see the above attached pic. I will try cranking the engine over while looking down there to make sure that is where it's coming from, but it appears to be coming from between the parts on the fitting itself.

Bike started pissing oil after the last track day I went to, from the front of the sump, looked like maybe one of the oil line fittings and/or couplers and washers themselves needed to be retightened. Took the opportunity to take the sump off and install the Roper Plate, put everything back together nicely (edit: I replaced all the crush washers with new ones.) Put some oil in and turned the engine over while still on the lift, and, without even fully running the engine, I got another leak immediately. It was just a small drop, but this time I could see where it came from before it made a mess. It appears that the oil is not coming from between the sump and coupler/washer, or from between the coupler and the fitting on the line. It looks like it's coming out from the fitting itself. I took a crappy picture with my phone, I can get a better one if anyone really cares to scrutinize it that much. It was towards the end of my evening in the garage, so I didn't investigate further, thought I should do some research. Is this a fixable thing, or do I need to replace the whole line? Is this common, what would cause the line to fail? New stock lines go for $85, weighing my options... Thanks!

The pork chops are made of such soft Al, that's what I was sort of thing too, but ya never know...

That wasn't why I was asking. My question is about how much structural importance the round tube fitting into the pork chops has. If the inside diameter of the pork chop was opened up so that they barely, or didn't even touch, and only the flat mating surfaces on the plates and the flange on the frame touched, would it matter? Does that put too much stress on the bolts, or are they already doing most of the work? The diameter of the tube extending out of the flanged part is 62.5mm, what if the ID of the recess on the back of the pork chop was opened up a hair, to 63.5mm, for example?