footgoose
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Posts posted by footgoose
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Black? gosh, purge the system, maybe twice, then consider the next thing. fwiw, I've never used a bleeding kit or pump to do this job on any system. Just pump it out and replace it as you do, just don't let the rez go down to let air in. Do the prep, a nice clean, clear hose to watch what comes out. Your body goes through some weird contortions but it can be done. don't be afraid to waste a can of fluid.
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I swapped out my clutch assembly, didn't remove the alt. IIRC, just stuck something in the start ring to stop turning. but I'm a shaved ape so... depends on your level of persnickety. In the bowels of this forum is most all the information you'll need to decide whether to swap to either a RAM aftermarket or an OEM dual plate clutch. Then any concern for the possibility of the aluminum flywheel failing will be gone. That's the road I took.
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2 hours ago, Joe said:
I love these cars, and yes the V6 sounds glorious.
In 1986 I did a stint selling Alfa's. The GTV6 was a glorious auto. Tranny is in the rear. I shouda bought one.
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Evangeline, Evangeline
Curses the soul of the Mississippi Queen
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The ground wire from the battery to the transmission bolt is the forum original 'service this ground first' point. Cleaned and sanded and de-ox'd. I then took another wire, same gauge, from that bolt forward to the frame about mid way with the same 'treatment' at connections. From there, same gauge wire forward to the r/r case. Overkill maybe... I do that
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yes it comes apart
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best forget the #5 relay for now, I miss-read your symptoms. I agree with docc on those bullet connectors as a place to start.
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1 hour ago, red lion said:
pushed the start button and nothing
27 minutes ago, docc said:It seems to me that while Relay 5, and Fuse 2 (or those vulnerable hidden spade connectors under the fuse block), would prevent the fuel pump from spinning, the bike would still crank but not start.
No pump/ no crank? Sure points to the Clutch Safety Switch. I do recall a member who owned other bikes and simply forgot the V11 must have the clutch lever pulled in to start, even if in neutral . . .
correct docc, I missed that bit
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3 minutes ago, red lion said:
no fuel pump sound
relay #5
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wow! now that's a score for Christmas.
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Members on here have opened these up in a couple of ways. Finding those threads is probably harder than the job
. I 'cut' open an earlier white face tach and found it cheap and an unwelcome place to work. I replaced it with a used one I found for $100. If yours is broken, you have nothing to lose so I would have a go at fixing it. I doubt you'll find parts anywhere other than in used "parts" gauges. I had some later black face ones I sold awhile back to a member who was wanting to do the same project as yourself. Don't recall who it was but would be a good source for info.
Aside from that, I'd spring for the Speedhuts. Waaaaay head in tech and quality, and beautiful.
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Do you have the angle drive for speedo cable top of the tranny? If so check the cap. Those are prone to falling out and releasing the cable core to fall out on the road.
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20 hours ago, gstallons said:
Call me ignorant , do these single disc clutches make all the rackets of the dual disc ?
No. The dual disc sounds more 'troubled' than the single and a bit louder imo. The aftermarket RAM single plate is somewhat less noisy than the oem single and operates buttery smooth.
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2 hours ago, activpop said:
I'm talking about the old style with the pointer on a graduated gauge...remember them?
Yes! I have one with a battery and a little light.
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Craftsman still have old style clickers. I bought two new ones a couple years back. They’re great.
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any socket that fits will work for removal. You'll need that socket and a torque wrench to put it back correctly. You'll want a torque wrench for many tasks on the bike, especially front end work. Money well spent.
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Nice introduction Mick. Welcome. "I know there is "active involvement" on the horizon, and that is not all bad.
" - many a beautiful relationship requires it .. no?
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15 minutes ago, activpop said:
Lagrasta, When I change the tire I'll be doing everything I can on the rear before installing wheel again. I'll get grease in there one way or another...I hope!
I use this tip with the wheel off and swingarm dangling. Done it a few times. Have to attack it straight on, the point will open the zerk and settle in pretty well with consistent pressure to take grease. Some does escape around the edges but mostly goes in.
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great to see the 'human being' talent up front and the studio "adds" pushed off the stage. nice drum kit too.
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3 hours ago, activpop said:
Also got the order in from Stein Dinse for the Becker Technik stand. This seems like the best way for a rear tire change.
I use it for the front tire and fork work too. It holds the bike upright from the rear and while using ratchet straps from handlebars to rafters, I use a padded floor or scissors jack under the front of the sump. It seems sketchy at first but with tight "splayed" straps I feel safe with it.
Don't know what a new Becker Technik comes with but I use an 18" - half inch drive breaker bar in the jack arm. From the side stand I can hold the handlebars with both hands and operate the jack with my foot. It's an awkward dance till you sort it out. If you chock the front tire first there's no balance problems at all.
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I tried the copy link and it just copied the link
what is meant by 'added to attachments'
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Very scary. Good job getting it out of traffic and shut down fast.
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11 hours ago, LaGrasta said:
@footgoose Seems only Harper's still has inventory.
https://www.harpermoto.com/13-oil-return-pipe-1162300.html
I'll do the heater hose mod, and keep an eye on it, even replace it every 15k. What is the copper fitting mod you're referring to?
While pursuing the same fix as you are now, back in 2015?, I came across the heater hose fix iirc here on this forum. I used 3/4 id Insulone hose cut into 3 pieces (1 long 2 short) and 2 copper plumbing angles to make the hard bends and create a similar shape to oem. Can't recall what size or degree of bend the copper was. 45 or 90
My set up is still there and still clean and solid 6-7years later. That said,.. heater hose mfg specify "not suitable for fuel or oil". And THAT said, It would appear to me that the oem hose is also not particularly suitable for fuel or oil. Also realize that my bike has done less than 1000mi per year since then, but the gasses have still been a factor and ymmv. I won't be replacing my "fix" till it shows some kind of breakdown. I will pursue something better next time.
https://www.daycoaftermarket.com/en/product/insulone-heater-hose/
I probly got mine at NAPA...
copper at Lowes
I used screw hose clamps (that everyone says not to) cuz I'm a rebel
I love Harpers but don't trust it being in stock IN their possession, call to verify.
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Driveshaft/Gearbox
in Technical Topics
Posted
'02 Tenni single plate