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Posts posted by footgoose
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the one disadvantage of having "replies" in classifieds.
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that looks nice!
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I'm kinda with the reviewer. No real preference. I prefer the RE motor concept 270* crank, I'll bet it sounds lovely and I love twins. I'm not in love with the look however, as much as I am the BSA. Don't care for the BSA radiator but it's an advancement I'm wiling to accept. The concept of smallish/retro/standard is the only point I can consider and address, and that puts the BSA in front for me... I like that they embraced their Arms heritage coming back to market.
TBH my interest in bikes in that category is firmly in the vintage originals. If I were to cave and opt for reliability and newness I'd go for a used W650 or even a new W800. For now my 1980 XS650 is occupying that space nicely.
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just to add... my "intermittent" issues occurred when bike was hot, resolved when cooled off some.
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1 hour ago, Flooky said:
Can relays be intermittent ?
I have had an issue that I could only explain as an intermittent relay failure. Same deal as yours. Ran fine, shut it off, won't restart, sometime later it will start. Finally it shut down while riding. Swapped out #5 (Injectors?), fixed. I was not using Omron at the time. It's possible that moving the relays around *caused* a better connection. Recalling the sequence of failure, I'm sticking with intermittent failure.
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great review.
"no riding modes"
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normally not attracted to purple hair girls but ..
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42 minutes ago, p6x said:
Where would you see it located?
The entire oval background is the flag. motor remains the same. Border and script change to that dark blue you have as background now. or border blue, script dark silver/gunmetal.
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any way to get the flag into the oval?
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like you said, tough to find consensus. With what you've shown, I lean oval. Shield doesn't make a connection to MG for me.
"forum" isn't necessary if .com is used.
I'd opt for any factory script/font
Love that you're doing it, whatever you end up with.
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I have never had a problem bleeding any hydraulic lines on anything that was not malfunctioning or leaking in some way.
While doing the job I try to keep my head wrapped around the physics of it and employ consistency and patience. I'm not afraid to use a LOT of fluid to insure a fully refreshed system. Even (and especially) the clutch. Yes I over-do it. I over-do most jobs, it makes me calm, what can I say? I was educated working on vintage bikes with water in reservoirs and mashed potatoes in the calipers.
I tried a vacuum bleeder on my BMW that had an ABS system. Having to bleed the abs unit and the slaves I figured I needed it. I ended up trashing the vacuum kit and finished the traditional way.
The clutch presents a challenge because of less "push back" or resistance. It takes more patience and finesse. Get comfortable and watch the tube. It's a different flow.
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docc, I shoulda known
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4 hours ago, docc said:
This one goes out to some folks I haven't heard from in a while . . .
"All the telephone lines are down . . .
fren' of mine once told me.... the phone line runs both ways
SRV was the pinnacle
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2 hours ago, al_roethlisberger said:
I'm curious what kind of coating would be recommended and possibly "stick" to the inside of the tank reliably.
you'll want to do a search. There is at least one thread on the topic. And the Duc forums mentioned.
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It's an old subject, and pardon my lack of detailed knowledge but, the bubbling is caused by alcohol in gasoline and somehow permeates the nylon gas tank. There have been instances noted of it bubbling painted surfaces as well.
The very best fix is sourcing a nos or near new/unaffected tank and seal it internally. There are threads on the forum with much discussion.
As has been said, a quality print shop can make the transfers , they just need an accurate representation for the setup.
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Years back on this forum, didn't someone mention a remedy for the decal blister/bubble using a needle or pointy razor to penetrate and release the gas?
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1 hour ago, dgpmerc said:
previous owner liked the look of the dark gray covers
as do I. Welcome
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On 2/4/2023 at 1:17 PM, gstallons said:
A warm and fuzzy feeling . Not to compare M/G with H/D .but around here you cannot sew , weld, make wooden idols , anything w/the words , colors, liken or graven images Harley Davison w/o getting a cease and desist order from The Firm ! Jehovah (of the Old Testament) didn't have this kind of attitude. And he had some people to keep in line. I guess the golden calf was o/k but when they branded the wings & M/G emblem , KABOOM !
Now , when you have to explain to most everyone you meet how to pronounce / spell it , much less what it is , you know this is not a household name. If "the parent company" charged $1.00 for every time this name was typed on a computer , they might earn $200.00/yr.
I had something brilliant to say but.... ^^^ this pretty much covers it ^^^
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that's all I've seen that's unusual
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23 minutes ago, docc said:
I say, again, what username is the trouble coming from and how?
look at unread content. A BUTT load of map postings
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8 minutes ago, FuelCooler said:
Thanks everyone for the positive comments.
If anyone decides to tackle this, my advice is to draw the cuts you want to make, take your time and leave generous excess to trim down. It’s not a lot of work, but it matters to get it looking how you want!it does look great. Do you have any secret ways to smooth or polish the surface? I've tried to clean up scratches and it looks worse.
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7 minutes ago, FuelCooler said:
The pegs really fit perfectly and don’t seem to be modified in any way, but no guarantees!
Yes early Duc Monster. Here's one from my saved search. I've purchased several a LOT cheaper and nicer, being patient. They appear to be the very same as the MG oem's with the addition of a rubber covering. That thickness is how much higher your foot will ride. (2-3mm?) Reduces vibes on the feet.
New from Duc is like $80 iirc.
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59 minutes ago, Kevin_T said:
Has anyone degreed the cam with the chain and then the gear set? Just wonder if there is any difference at all.
I'll bet @Lucky Philhas
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On 2/3/2023 at 4:54 AM, Weegie said:
Just coz I stumbled across this thread I thought I'd put in my bodged effort to install an LED unit into the Sfida.
Yes I know the original H4 Bosch unit looks better, I could hardly think I'd do a better job than Arturo Magni after all. I was also careful to ensure I could easily change it back, I reckon the stock one could be back in, taking a little over an hour from start to finish.
I very rarely ride in the dark now, I wanted an LED unit to improve my visibility to others in daytime conditions. Purchased a Koso Thunderbolt, it has a flat Lo Beam so suitable for left and right side driving.
When it comes to 7" headlamps the measurement is a joke, the Bosch OEM unit is >300mm diameter (say 305), the Thunderbolt is 170mm.
After a lot of bodging and experimentation and regretting that the idea ever entered my tiny little brain I got something that, sort of, works.
I won't bore you with all the details, but in the end I'm reasonably pleased with the result. Was it worth the effort? DEFINATELY NOT.
That said it has yet to be tested out on the road and the LED running light on its own will be more visible to other traffic, due to the higher colour temp, than the H4 dip beam I
reckonhope.That looks Great! Is that in your bedroom? can't blame ya mate. Any explanation you're up for re installation I'll be watching.
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Le Mans fairing screen
in Technical Topics
Posted
the raised screen is the same screen.. but extended (duh) so they can be trimmed (I did) easily with a jigsaw and the edge smoothed out with sand paper. Re-cover the edge with oem or box-store edging. I actually made mine an inch lower than stock because like scud, I like the wind lower. ... and it looks cool