Gottagetone

I thought I would update on my progress or lack there of. First of all, Kiwi-Roy has been amazing with the help. I am no electrician and he has helped me with all kinds of info and diagrams. I changed out all of my relays thinking that one of them was bad, unfortunately that did not fix the problem. We thought it might be a side stand switch but that does not appear to be the case. Ive tested the 02 sensor in the airbox along with quite a few other electrical things. I stopped by a to see a friend that works at Harris Vincent Gallery, since they trust him to break down and rebuild high $ motorcycles and the fact the he is a certified Ducati tech I thought he might be able to help. He seems to think that its a lean condition and that my Power Commander map may be the fix. He said that the issue is well known on euro bikes at the 3k rpm range, Jap bikes the problem will show itself in the 4300k range. Ive checked all the intake boots and they are in good shape. I took a couple of shots of the PCIII map and show them below, one at idle and one not. I am not confident about adjusting the map and know that each map is set for the current bike specs. My specs are shown at the bottom of the pics below. Any thoughts on the map settings? At idle: 2400RPMs: I did try to pull the PCIII but it turns out that it being an 03 and PC not having a connection for that year model...the PO had it professionally installed so its hardwired and looks stock. I also checked my fuse box as I was not getting any readings from fuse #8 and it turns out that there are no wires running to that fuse. Im thinking it might be time to take it to the dealership and have them check the throttle body sync and tappets. If that all looks good then I may be headed to a PCIII specialist.

Thanks Gents, I have had the ignition out and can't find any problems. Since I found it near the head stock I don't think it is part of the seat lock. Ill double check the ignition switch just to be sure. Update, I just looked and you guys were right, there was a hole underneath the ignition that was empty. Blue thread locker and some needle nose and its good to go...Cheers!

Not sure if this is tech or not but it certainly could end up that way... I found this sheared off bolt in the plastic cuff that the cables run through on the right side just in front of the gas tank. I have searched and can't find an empty hole or the other part of the sheared off piece.

While searching for the relay info all I could find was the one Omsron crossover. My bike has three different relays, one 5 pin in slot one, two 4 pins in slots 2&3, and two smaller 4 pin relays in slots 4&5. When I moved one of the larger relays into slot #4 my bike started really running like crap so I figured that I needed the smaller relays for slots 4 & 5. Data sheet shows them to be the same so we shall see.

Thanks for the input about the sensor. I checked it and its good...unfortunately. Its still in my airbox and my box has been cut away to provide more airflow over the K&N filter by the PO. Its been cool here so I don't think its related to that. If it were summer time then I would be more suspicious. Roy is emailing me more suggestions and I am following up on them. I just pulled the relay block and all connections look good. New relays are on the way from Digikey. Im also going to pull the ignition and check / clean it. Been moving relays around so much that I now realize I should have white marked the tops of them at the start. I put the 5 pin back in slot 1 and now the headlight and dash lights work. New relays can't get here fast enough. Locally they are $18.50 each but through digikey they are about $4.60.

Great thought, ill give it a look, thanks.

Looks like I spoke a bit too soon. Just took it for a little ride through the neighborhood and it happened again. Its much less frequent but it still happened. Ill wait for the new relays and see what happens...prolly clean the ignition switch in between just for good measure. When I swapped the relays around it must have fried something but no fuses are blown...weird. Makes me wonder if there is something in the circuit.

Cant thank you enough for your help Roy! I ordered three of the Omrons and two Panasonic relays. According to the guy at Digikey via the data sheets, they are the same and he agreed that the Tyco relays that are currently there are not the best. When I moved a 5 pin to that slot it ran worse so I figured either I have a problem with two relays or they were different. Swapping relays 4 and 5 made her run like a top but no headlight, no tach, and a couple of the service lights on the dash are inoperable. I believe thats relay 4 that is shot? Relay 5 seems to have a solid click when I turn the kay on but wanted to confirm so I don't throw away a working relay? Yep, Ill keep the others in a ziplock as an insurance policy. learned a lot on this one.

I was going to put the truckle version on my V11 and went over to Revival to talk to them about it because they use that light on some of their bikes. They talked about producing a ring to fit our bucket, if there is enough interest I can ask but they won't be cheap. I think you can find a Yamaha ring and bucket to fit that light. I did add LED turn signals along with a LED plate light and LED brake / running lights with a bracket that I fabled up. I was able to basically create my own tidy tail and it has worked great. I have LED headlights in my truck and will say that HID kits work just as good if not better, I have he HID in V11 bucket.

Guess Ill post up if they are correct...ordered them.

So Kiwi-Roy has been helping me out and it looks like one of my relays is bad so I am going to replace all of them. When I swapped relays 4 and 5 my dash lights and tach quit....and so did the backfire problem. Can someone confirm the I need this relay http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=184386420&uq=635836307695194383 in place of the smaller relays found in spots 4 & 5? The relays that are now located there are Tyco V23074-B1005-A302. I found the post where the larger relays, 1 - 3, takes this as a crossover - http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND Can someone confirm?

Got this one: http://m.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Digital-Multimeter/50081424

Thanks Roy, I bought a multimeter today and will check mine out to see what reading I get. If it turns out that mine is dead can I just take the old one out and solder in the new? Or should I run the new one to a new location?

I don't have a meter so nope. Looks like ill be headed to pick up a meter this week.

I took the tank off and checked all the connections, all looks good. I pulled air sensor and cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner just in case. checked and tightened the necks that go from the cylinder to the throttle bodies. Put is all back together and went around the block and same thing, its not back firing out the tail pipe but rather trying to blow back into the throttle body on the left side thus blowing the rubber neck off. Help!

So my bike just started doing the left cylinder back fire today. Rode a good portion of the day yesterday and ran great! Today it started running like crap and I felt it backfire on the left side, it actually pushed the boot between the cylinder and throttle body loose and I felt it blow my pant let. I reset the boot in place and tightened it up and it ran great while riding around the block then at about 3k rpm it happened again. Im no electrician so this causes a bit of an issue for me. Ill pull the boots and inspect / replace if necessary. I did pull the plugs and the look good, replaced them about 1000 miles ago. Ill check all the connections but think the temp sensor could be the culprit as it seems to similar. Do you have a part number for the sensor? Is this the part? http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_160&products_id=1226&zenid=ce6c4d186865fa9a6fc2078c07c47183 Also, my voltage light always seems to lightly stay on at idle...its never been an issue but could this be connected to the problem?

Yes, I run the top angle drive into the speedo but not the bottom. I didn't try but I don't think running the new cable into the back of the speedo would work as it would be a sharp 90* angle into the speedo which would not fit in the housing and would probably not allow the cable to spin with such a sharp turn. The old cable might well have run straight into the gear box but I think it would have been stretching the cable a good bit and it would have been very close if not laying on the head.

The upper angle drives comes str8 out of the back of the gauge and this cable attaches directly to it. You can see in the pic above where I unscrewed the old cable, thats where the new one screwed in and yes it fits just like the old one. I do expect at some point that the existing angle drive will crap out then I don't know what will happen.

The cable came pre-lubed with some pretty thick grease so I opted not to. The package was greasy inside and the instructions didn't mention it so thats what I ran with.

Illl get a pic asap. It is a bent tube that provides a very small amount of clearance between the throttle rod and cable...but it clears!

Recently my 60* angle gear that comes out of the gear box and attaches to the speedo cable cratered. I tried to order another and found that Guzzi, in all their brilliance, discontinued that part. I found that TLM out of the Netherlands had a replacement that included the cable and all so I placed my order. The cable cost about $38 plus another $38 in shipping. It took about three weeks to arrive but its here and installed....below are pics, The cable in its packaging: Removing the old cable from the back of the cluster...I have messing with the cluster: Removed the old cable from the gear box and 60* angel drive and taped the end of the cable to the other so I could pull it through: The pull through worked for the most part but I did have to go ahead and pull my tank to make it a bit easier. I also had to unbolt the headlight. Pulling the tank allowed me to clean the K&N filter and make sure everything else looked okie dokie: after a bit of maneuvering I was able to pull the cable through. From that point is was just to hook everything back up and go for a ride. My next concern is the angle gear in the back of the speedo.....but for now all is good!

Great race! I watched it from Haywoods Hill which is gives you a great view of turns 10 and 11. $25 got my family in and I parked right next to my chair. If you go to the track I would recommend paying to go in for the full experience, if you just want to go watch the race then Haywoods Hill is a pretty sweet deal.

I met that guy as well, nice guy but if I had to guess I would say that he, like many other New Yorkers, takes the subway. I did ask him why they discontinued the 60* angle gear and he had no answer. He wanted to refer me to his parts guy that was there but not at that time.

Revival had a few bikes there that were cool but not Guzzis if I remember correctly. They had the ice racer and the Ducati from the recent cafe racer tv show.

Lots of sweet Guzzis this year at The Handbuilt Show....well it is sponsored by Guzzi so what would you expect? Locally owned: He got a pulled over doing 130 in a 65 last year.....lol. This bike looks like its going fast just sitting there!