Gottagetone

everything up to the reconnecting the sync rod went well. I was able to get at 153mv with all disconnected then a 521mv after. Sync of the LH cylinder took a couple try as my homemade meter wanted to suck the fluid to the left pretty hard but Its now even. After messing with the sync rod and running out of time for the day I started it and it was idling at over 2k rpm...bunk. I have to figure out the sync rod setting then get my idle down to around 1000 rpms.

No worries about the czakky, I got to the mechanical balance point and reconnecting the rod and getting the stops to just barely hit the idle screws is driving me up the wall.....

Thanks Roy, that is exactly what I was looking for. I am hopeful to get this done today but after the backfiring that was going on yesterday while making the adjustments I am not convinced this will fix the problem....I will certainly make me feel better that it has eliminated a cause. Fingers crossed!

Thanks Roy, ill give it a shot tomorrow.

Ill give it a shot....I got things balanced using the sync rod. Ill screw the air bleed screws in then 3/4 turn out and see what happens.

Followed the instructions in the FAQ and the ones here to a T. When I set the TPS everything was disconnected and the RH idle screw was backed all the way out...and still is. As I read the instructions once the TBs are balanced you adjust the LH idle screw to where the voltage reads .521V then open up the air bleed screws to bring it down. If this is not the case please let me know what I am doing wrong. Instructions: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12204

So I got everything disconnected and the TPS was measuring 397, I was able to reset that and got it to a 154...very touchy to do but I was quite happy to get that number. I then connected the manometer and reconnected the sync rod and left the RH idle screw alone. Started the bike and with some effort was able to balance the TBs. I then adjusted the LH idle screw to show .52V and it brought the idle up to about 2300. I started opening the air bypass crews and it started backfiring into the LH intake and no amount of opening the air bleed screws would bring the idle down. The only thing that brought the idle down was backing way off the LH idle screw to a reading of about .19V. Frustrated....any suggestions?

I thought about that after I typed it. Ill disconnect sync rod and choke cable, back out the idle screw and then shoot for a 150 to 156, correct?

So that 412 should read 156 to 150?

My TPS breakout harness came in today and I need a bit of help figuring out how to make the readings. I took some initial readings with everything hooked up as it sits meaning I have not backed off the RH idle screw or disconnected the sync rod and choke cable. Here are the readings and settings: With the key on and run switch on: meter set to 2000mv I get a 412 meter set to 200v I get .40 meter set to 20Ω I get 8.07 Key on and run switch off: meter set to 2000mv I get 0 meter set to 20v I get 0 meter set to 20Ω I get 1.17 I know I need to disconnect the sync rod and choke cable and back off the RH idle screw but what setting should I be using on my meter? Should I just have the key on and the run switch off or on?

Looks like there are two...or three...schools of thought here. My breakout harness will be here in a couple days which will allow me to get a solid number. Once that happens I will report back and go from there. Thanks again for all the input and help.

I have been reading the setting of the TPS thread along with all of these posts and I see where you back the RH idle screw all the way off but I am not seeing where you adjust it back in? Also, If I don't have the dig software is this futile for me to attempt?

A ride through the Texas hill country....The home made tidy tail really cleans it up.

I don't have the AXONE or guzzidiag software, will my PCIII map show the step 6 - idle trim set to 0? If not and this is quite important I might as well take it to the stealership... Also, when using the Micha method, do you just open the bleed screws from where they are now one full turn....and after I have synced the TBs to I remove the synch rod to set the TPS or just adjust it as it sets? I have yellow paint on my adjuster screws, I assume that will just chip off allowing me to make the adjustments? In case you didn't click on the Micha Method that I referenced above, here's what works for me: Step one - Set your valves to world settings (.15mm/.006" intake, .2mm/.008" exhaust) Step two - Set your air bleed screws to open 1 full turn Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm) Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (530mV) Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This requires an AXEONE dealer tool or either VDST or GuzziDiag software.

Thanks GM, I tried using my modified paper clips to back probe and I am getting inconsistent readings I assume from the inconstant connection. The closest I got to a 150 without backing off the idle right hand idle screw or disconnecting the sync rod was 159. Screw it, I just ordered the breakout harness. They said it would ship today and go via priority mail.

Thanks for all your help. I am starting to understand the process of setting the TPS and the breakout harness. I printed out the directions in the FAQ section and those along with the pics help a lot. I don't have the guzzidiag software and have a question...how the heck to I get the voltage meter to touch the two outer wires inside the TPS connector without a breakout harness? Thats a blind corner if I have ever seen one! I tried twisting paper clips around the volt meter leads then using those to touch the TPS prongs and got some readings but nothing consistent enough.

Roy is the man! Ive taken mine out a few times as well...its kind of a pain to get it back in but its doable.

Is there a basic step by step to setting the TPS, I thought there was but I am not finding it?

Thanks Scud, I used .006 in and .008 out. The right side was spot on and the exhaust on the left was perfect. Im glad I gave the valve job a try, it was pretty easy especially using the rear wheel method rather than cranking over with a wrench.

Well Crap! I checked the valves and adjusted the intake on the left side, man thats a minor adjustment. I also built a meter and balanced the TBs at 1700 RPMs. When I throttle up it definitely pulls to the right side throttle body, not sure if this is normal or not? Anyway, I put it all back together...PCIII included, and the problem is still there.....ARGH!!!! It may be time for a shop visit.

I am a bafoon, hate when I do this....I just pulled the PCIII and will take it for a spin to see if its the problem... Edit, the PCIII is not the problem. Time to let it cool then work on the valves.

I did find this about balancing, is it really this easy?

Thanks for all the help, especially the suggestion of using the rear wheel rather than pulling the timing cover and using a wrench. I guess a straw works as well as anything for a cylinder gauge through the spark plug hole? I rode the bike for about 150 miles the day before and it rarely sits for long between rides, Austin weather is great this time of year. The connection is wrapped tightly as you can see below. The PCIII connection is kinda big so I don't think its hiding in there. I bought the bike out of the Portland area and have not changed anything but fluids, filters and tires since I bought it. I did change out most of the lights to LEDs as shown in my tidy tail thread and run an HID to the headlight. The map was done by the PO and i will say that she screams. Idle is always smooth and the torque is amazing, rolling it up to over 100 is too easy. My wife pulled up next to me in her Range Rover with a BMW 4.4 in it on the toll road one day and thought she could hang....not. I did save the map in the files, the system works well. Download and run the software then start the bike and hook the PCIII to the laptop and boom...you see the numbers. After all of the electronic stuff I have looked at I am with Tom on this one, it has to be something mechanical so thats where I am headed today. Valves first then if that doesnt work I think I will take it to the shop as I don't have a lot of confidence in my ability to balance the TBs without seeing it done first. At the T one side goes to the diag plug and the other into the ECU.

Ive never done the valve adjustment thing but will give it a shot, headed to pick up some feeler gauges today....seems pretty straight forward. The TB sync is something that I am a little less sure of attempting... I changed the spark plugs about 1200 miles ago and they look good but for the couple bucks I may pick up a new set.

Thats where its going next Tom. From reading through this thread I thought the problem would be with one of the sensors but that simply does not appear to be the case.