Scud

Then comes the moment when you think "Well, that WAS worth it."

OK, it would make a fine winter project - and here are some lessons learned. Supplies and Techniques: Aircraft stripper is "the bomb" - wear long sleeves, rubber gloves, and a full face-shield (not just goggles) Super Clean helps to dissolve the black-tar goo that some of the paint turns to (the entire engine case turned to a horrid, sticky mess, while some parts released the paint like a rubber glove). Thick-bristled parts cleaner brush helps to dislodge stubborn bits of stripped paint from hard-to-reach places Plastic scrapers can be cut into little strips the same size as the grooves in various parts Q-tips are the same size as the grooves at the bottom of the engine block (you'll need to scoop paint-tar-goo out of those grooves) Specific Parts: Rear drive and stabilizer arm - easy peasy Driveshaft collars - I recommend powdercoating, but they would be easy to spray Transmission - I think you could leave the two main cases and all the gears together - and paint the rear cover and selector cover independently. I split everything because of a leak. Engine - the sump parts are easy. The timing cover is a PITA, because the fins are so tall (the timing cover might be a good candidate for powdercoating, especially since it gets hit by gravel). The block would have been much easier with the cylinders removed - but I didn't want to strip it down that far. I ended up leaving a partial ring of old paint where the cylinders meet the block - especially on top of the engine. Bonus Points: This would be the time to drop off a big batch of goodies at the powdercoater: swingarm, subframes (I did the lower and the front), various bits and brackets. FAIR WARNING https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I51eR2hzdQ

Thanks. And as to why Moto Guzzi put new cases... yeah, that was a shit-ton of work. And underneath the crinkle paint, the case is a much rougher cast than the case on my 2003 (and you can see how much smoother the transmission case is). I bet they celebrated every time a person chose the free accessories instead of the new case. The RAM clutch is in now. I can rotate the rear wheel by hand with the clutch in and transmission in gear, so it seems like it's going to work... and it takes very little effort at the clutch lever. And, you know, I may just swipe the thermometer dipstick from my LeMans. It's a good idea to mark the levels on that now. I blacked out my engine number...

Hey Pete - I was thinking of you today. This is third time installing one of your "Roper Plates." Second time in this bike. I think I'm marginally proficient at it now. Happy New Year to you and all the AU/NZ people who will see it almost a full day before me.

I don't know them, but I've enjoyed Wayne's participation on the WG forum. It's tragic, and an important reminder about how dangerous our favored form of transportation can be. He posted some pictures over there... looks like a life well-lived.

BBCode (replace photobucket's img with this in your post) It seemed fitting to drink a Sierra Nevada "handcrafted" Pale Ale while removing the masking from the freshly painted engine. I promised to take her to the Sierra Nevada Mountains as soon as the snow melts. ...and that's the last of the crinkle paint. If I ever think about repainting another 2002 V11 drivetrain, please conduct an intervention to stop me. BTW, ignore the nasty paint on the sump ring, that ring is a spare that I used as a base while painting.

The magic extender increases the leverage, and decreases the amount of foot travel required to initiate a shift. That's part of why it feels more crisp. It doesn't materially change the angles.

I have unkempt's champagne LeMans now. It's "in waiting" - till I'm caught up with other projects. Whattsa matter? No floor space in the living room for the Sport? Maybe suggest to your buddy that the early K bikes are worth considering. My 1992 K75s is a far better ride than my 1981 R100 was. The K bikes came out in the mid '80s. Ks are very affordable now, while some of the airheads are getting expensive.

Well, sometimes things are so obvious, once somebody with some experience 'splains it properly.

I've struggled with some of that vagueness in the manual myself. The one-page torque spec sheet in the manual gives standard torques for different size bolts. I use those when in doubt. Sometimes I "cheat" and look up torques for similar things in my Clymer BMW K-bike manual.

For a shift linkage, which has to apply forces in both directions, I think 90 degrees at rest is the target. When the linkage moves forward, for a downshift, the front angle (at transmission input) decreases and the rear angle (at the arm on the foot lever) decreases. It's opposite for an upshift. But the 90 degrees is an ideal - and as already mentioned, there are other factors to consider, such as not hitting cases, frame, and porkchops. The first time I tried adjusting the length of one of these, I was really surprised to find that it could not be lengthened or shortened while installed. LH and RH threads would have made adjustment easier/faster.

But if you disconnect one end, you can adjust the total length and reassemble. From what I understand, the shift linkage works best when it at 90 degrees to the levers. If you take the lever off the transmission input shaft and move it a tooth or two, you will change the angles. When I got my LeMans, the PO had lower pegs and had made moved the trans lever a few teeth (and made lots of linkage adjustments. It shifted well - but I've since put it all back to stock.

Two Tims on this thread... and it looks pretty good next to a Scura. But my garage is pretty crowded right now. So many great bikes for less than $5,000 out there...

You need a stronger bubble.

Following up on my earlier puzzle about the timing chain... I got it back in today, along with the upgraded timing chain tensioner... and there is a bit of a trick to it. First, the new tensioner has to be compressed by something skinny enough to allow the chain to slide by. Standard C-clamps did not work. I took all the rubber tips off a spring-clamp and it was smooth and easy. Then, all three gears and the chain have to go on at the same time. And this can be done with only two hands: Get the gears and chain all properly organized so the marks will line up. It would help if you were able keep them together after removal - but did I do that? No. When you get the cam and crank gears to start over their respective pin and slot, then you have to line up the key and slot on the oil pump. This can be done by turning the oil pump shaft with a screwdriver. If your oil pump gear has the slot close to the top the little key will not fall out. Snug it up... 150nM (110lb/ft) on the cam nut. No torque specs provided for the nuts on the lower two gears. And WOW - the chain is WAY tighter than with the stock tensioner. Special tools: a super-deep 32mm socket, and if the motor is out, you need a starter gear locking tool. BTW, the bolts that go through the stock tensioner are longer than the other bolts around the main bearing housing - so I needed one new, shorter bolt. Edit: read on to next page for even easier way to install the new tensioner.

Maybe park the V11 in the middle. Keeps things in chronological order, so you can appreciate the transitions...

WOW. She looks fabulous - factory-fresh even.

Not a V11, but a very nice custom CARC by a builder who (like Docc) paid tribute to Carcano. http://www.pipeburn.com/home/2016/09/22/moto-guzzi-mgr-1200-radical-guzzi.html# The above story says that the factory supported this effort. It's even on the Moto Guzzi corporate page. http://www.motoguzzi.com/en_EN/news/MGR-1200-wins-Essenza-public-design-competition/ Is it possible that we will see something along these lines to compete with R9T BMWs and Triumph Thruxtons? (If so, it probably won't have CARC rear-end.)

I found the fender on eBay. Details here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19514&p=215632 Jester and I had some PM conversation as he was also interested. The fender is for the Ohlins forks, and it would not be a direct fit to the Marzocchis - the zooks take 3 screws per side and they are in different places than the 2 per side of this one. Meanwhile, Santa's elf was busy stripping the engine case.

Ya think? Somebody mentioned the ratcheting crimpers a while back; I think it was Lucky Phil. Here they are, along with some related stuff that makes me a Goots-e-lectrician: The ratcheting crimpers black/yellow handle were my recent purchase, along with a box of assorted crimp-on terminals and a box assorted size/color heat-shrink. You didn't ask, but also I pulled out my favorite wire stripper. This is an "automatic" or "self-adjusting" wire stripper. It clamps the wire, cuts the insulation, then pulls the insulation off in a clever series of movements from only only squeeze of the (red) handles. And for comparison, the old tools, which have moved to the back of the drawer... possibly never to be used again.

To satisfy my curiosity, I installed the battery (with it's freshly powdercoated tray ) Resistance from battery negative terminal to: Stock regulator ground wire: 0. This is expected, because the wire goes directly to the battery. Bare spot on spine frame: 0. New grounding point on frame (fuel-pump through-bolt): 0. This is without even having the engine installed. It uses the connection between the spine frame and the transmission. For comparison, a bare bolt on the upper triple clamp had resistance: 15 ohms, IIRC. There will be a lot more connection points when the engine is in. So this confirms my hypothesis that the frame and aluminum cases are just one big lump from an electrical perspective. However, I noticed an easy way to add a ground the rest of the way to the battery. I had previously run a battery charging cable behind the headlight for easy access and to power accessories. So I cut the negative wire, added two crimp-on terminals and stuck them on the fuel-pump through-bolt. This provides an extra measure of safety in case the primary ground works loose. I used DC-4 again (not vaseline) so I missed the opportunity to threaten my neighbor when he visited. This also gave me an excuse to play with my new ratcheting crimpers. OMG, they are so much better than the stamped steel ones. A real pleasure to use. Moto Guzzi is making another electrician... they've been doing that for almost 100 years now.

It's a 7.3 Turbo-Diesel with automatic transmission and 4.11 gears. It's not going to win any drag races, but it pulls strong. I found one with about 135,000 miles in Idaho that had a Gear Vendors unit installed. That's a gear-splitter/double-overdrive. It drops about 500 RPM at 80 MPH, which is a good fuel saver - it gets maybe 18 MPH on open highway (would be better if I went slower). I would have preferred a manual transmission, but it's not just me and "some people" refuse to drive a manual transmission. I think the Cummins motors are probably the best, but the duramax are good too. The old 7.3 will run on the high-sulphur diesel that is still sold in Mexico -and the 1997 is the last year of smog-exempt in California. Those were factors for me - not sure if they are relevant for you. It's slow, loud, and stinky - and I like it. I put a Mexican blanket in the back seat for "ambience." I'm surprised at how many comments the old-body-style Ford inspires, while the newer-style trucks get ignored.

How funny - we got pictures of our trucks in the same place, and same hills in the background. To avoid the Ford/Chevy/Dodge debate, perhaps we could agree that everyone should have a 4WD truck? The Porsche Looks like a fun toy - I have good memories of a trip to Mexico in one of those (belonged to a friend). I gave up on car-toys a while back, but I get to use the same amount of space for motorcycles, so I am much happier.

If my daughter is accepted to Cal Poly San Luis Obispo I'll be visiting frequently. She hopes to start there next August.

More play time Rebuilt forks, new fluid in damper, fresh Pirelli Angel ST, groovy new front fender, lots of little stuff like cleaning and lubricating the wire harness, playing with ground wires, new speedo cable and angle drive (the previous cable had snapped and left a piece inside the drive gear). Still haven't painted the engine... but getting there. Hopefully I can get it going again before the New Year.