Scud

I recently noticed that I had misaligned my driveshaft on reassembly (just by one tooth). The video made me feel much better about the effort required to correct it. I knew there was a reason for the alignment, but never understood the reason before.

The heads on my LeMans were discolored as in your pictures - I don't know what's normal, but at least you're not alone. Painting the engine will never be easier than now, while it's on the bench. So if you think you might want to paint it, this is the time.

That makes sense. I probably didn't remember the conversation with the Hyperpro builder accurately.

Perhaps FotoGuzzi will be along to extoll the virtues of the DR650. Be cautious with the Husqvarna Terra. From what I understand, a well sorted one can a be a real joy - but it's a bit of an orphan bike. It was sold during the short time when BMW owned Husky. The Terra has a modified BMW engine.

Sort of like finding Moto Guzzi parts - there are a few dealers who know how to find things - two local dealers in San Diego, plus Hall's Cycle for "mail-order." But it doesn't need much besides normal wear items. That said - I did bend a footpeg and broke a horn bracket (which in turn severed the speedo sensor wire) - so I will test parts availability again soon.

If I am going any significant distance, I leave my mapping software on my computer with the tracks I intend to ride displayed. I overview my intent with my wife so she knows where to look if I don't come back. On this particular trip, I borrowed a friend's satellite phone (but didn't use it). I have been thinking about getting a SPOT or similar - also thinking about a Medevac insurance policy. Maybe that's something for the Christmas wish-list. Those are good safety items for street riding too. KLR650 or DR650 would be great choices for TAT... but have you seen the Husqvarna 701? http://www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com/us/enduro/dual-sport/701-enduro/

That's an aftermarket IMS tank. I think it's about 3.5 gallons. I can get close to 50MPG on fairly open terrain in 6th gear - but use a lot more fuel over technical sections, because, well, to borrow Chuck's phrase "dirt-bike ridden in anger". You can carry more gas in a roto-pack on the tail. The Italian-made carbureted Huskys are solid, reliable bikes that would be way more fun than either of those heavy (and more comfortable) 650s. I had a TE510 before this TE450. The 510 was a beast, but it ran hot. I like the 450 better. The 450 with the Akropovic exhaust still has more power than anyone realistically needs - and it's got tons of grunt down low. I've done several 200+ mile days (and some 500-mile weekends) on Huskys and I think it would be capable of a cross-country trip. I think the choice of a Husky vs a KLR or DR for the TAT is sort of like choosing between a V11 and a big Harley for a cross-country trip on pavement. You know the Husky or V11 will be more fun - but you know there's more dealer support along the way for the other bikes. The new, fuel-injected KTM and Husqvarna 500s would also be great choices - although much more expensive. @Jester - no injury, but I did bang up the bike a bit - dropped it four times in about two miles of that rocky single track, and again following a spectacular loss of traction while trying make a snow-covered grade. No drops on the long-haul to the Grand Canyon though.

If you decide to go with a new shock, consider getting a taller spring*, as fitted to the Ohlins-equipped models. When I got a Hyperpro built for my LeMans, they asked if I wanted the taller (Ohlins-height) spring* or the standard (Marzocchi-height). I chose the stock height, and it sits noticeably lower than my Scura. *edit: should be taller shock, per comments below.

We've had some recent conversations about dirt bikes, so I thought I'd share a non-guzzi adventure with you guys. My oldest daughter is attending Northern Arizona University, and this was our third Thanksgiving in the area. We rented a cabin near the base of Humphreys Peak (aka the San Francisco Peaks). There is some fabulous single track that starts only a mile from the cabin. Some of it is rather challenging. I didn't make this sharp, uphill, right-hand turn, so I took a picture while gasping for (thin) air and before wrestling it through the rest of that section. On my last few trips to visit my daughter, I've been intrigued by the possibility of riding all the way to Grand Canyon National Park on dirt roads, and decided to make the attempt Friday. I estimated 75 miles one-way. That morning was 20F (-7C) and some of the first roads I intended to ride were impassible due to snow. Funny thing - I had scouted one of those roads the day before and was making good progress on a snowy uphill, but had to bail because people were sledding down the road. Here's a shot of open forest, looking back on the 12,600 foot Humphreys Peak. My plan was to go round-trip all on dirt, but I had some navigation challenges, some self-inflicted, but others due to roads being closed, too snowy, and most frustrating of all, reality not matching the tracks I had planned in my GPS. I saw deer, elk, and a coyote. By the time I got to the Grand Canyon, I had covered over 100 miles and it was much later than my plan. But I still had time to enjoy the park. I just went back on the asphalt, because I didn't have enough gas or time to go back on dirt. Rolled out this morning before Northern Arizona got hit with a lot more snow. This is probably the last high-altitude ride of the year. Thanksgiving is traditionally the start of the desert riding season here - and the sand dunes near the CA/AZ border were packed with campers - but I just love riding in the mountains, especially if there's some snow.

Ha - I unloaded my used one by myself. Big mistake. Was fortunate to avoid injury. A couple bonus features when you have a lift: An adjustable height table for all sorts of other projects. A loading platform for a pickup truck

Uhhh, I back the bike up and clamp the rear wheel in the vise. Well, that seems like a pretty obvious solution now that you point it out.

I got a used HF bike lift that I found on craigslist. The PO modified the front wheel chock to make it sturdier, but I still strap it on both sides for security. A surprising benefit is that I can move the lift with the bike on it - so I can put it in the middle of the garage while working on it, and move it against a wall while waiting. The lift has a couple of feet that screw down to the floor so it cannot roll accidentally. I have a roll-on wheel chock (from Cycle Gear) which holds the bike very well. I intend to remove all the HF front wheel clamp stuff and modify the lift so I can quickly install/remove the roll-on chock. The lift is great for raising the whole bike to a convenient working height. I've found that I need several different ways to raise the wheels off the ground - but I have not yet figured out how to remove the front wheel while it's on the lift (since it's clamped in). I really like the simplicity and versatility of the platform jack (under the transmission). I use that platform jack a lot.

Looks like fun! For the belly pan, I cast my unsurprising vote for black. However, I believe the Nero Corsa has a dark gray diamond pattern over the black. What about using that dark gray for the belly pan - or if you're really ambitious, copy the diamond grey/black pattern to the belly pan? Before you go riding with your new belly pan, put some clear ding-tape over the leading edge - or it will get chewed up by rocks from the front tire. I used a strip of clear tape that is meant for door sills in cars.

I haven't had to install new rotors on a V11 yet, but I put EBC stainless drilled and floating rotors on my K75s. They were less expensive than the BMW parts (which are fixed, not floating discs), and I'm happy with them. I agree with all the comments about the importance of buying quality brake components. If you want to buy used, you could increase your confidence in the used parts by using a good caliper and a run-out gauge.

Congratulations. My experience is that as soon as my wife got addicted to an evening TV show, I got to use that time productively (aka sit in the garage all night). Wiring? I got nuthin'

Hey Stew - I think you were clear, but maybe we only know how to help with the front part, which IMO is the main problem (and which you have already fixed). I don't shy away from rain and dirty roads (although we don't much rain here). When I ride in those conditions, I find the rear fender adequate, even after I chopped off the bit below the license plate.

With the right pdf software, you could delete all the non-english pages and save the smaller file. However, the pictures are not duplicated along with the translations, so sometimes you need an Italian language page to see a picture that is referred to from an English language page. When I printed a manual for myself, I kept track of what pages had either English or pictures. Here's a link: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19504&hl=

That's exactly how I felt about my Scura with the same original aluminum flywheel. The worry about the potential breakup made me not want to ride it.

Amending my earlier post... Alexander Hamilton (on US $10 note) was never president either. And according to the NY Times, we'll see Harriet Tubman, an African-American female, on the US $20 note - but not for a while yet. http://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/21/us/women-currency-treasury-harriet-tubman.html?_r=0

The concern is not the clutch hub (aka transmission input gear), which the rod passes through. The concern is the size and shape of the contact point on the pressure plate - and how it mates with the forward end of the clutch push-rod. Craig called it the receiver and posted pics of the two - (I quoted the post with the pics, but the pictures don't come along) New rods are cheap - and used ones even cheaper. So getting your original one machined is low-risk - you can always replace it. FWIW - It seems safer to machine the rod. I think there may be a risk of weakening the "receiver" if you drill into it.

US pennies are mostly zinc. You could grind 'em up, add some chromate and make yourself some poisonous primer. Pennies and $1.00 bills are both wasteful items and it's time to move on. The penny could be easily eliminated and the paper 1-dollar replaced with a coin - ideally one that does not cost $1.15 to produce. The last two 1-dollar coin attempts have failed to get wide circulation: Susan B. Anthony (US women's rights activist), and Sacagawea (native American female scout that guided Lewis and Clark, two white men, through western territory). In the US, we seem to prefer "dead presidents" on our money. Except for the $100 bill which features Benjamin Franklin, who was never president. From the song: Well, I ain't broke, but I'm badly bent Everybody love them dead presidents

Well, I take some comfort knowing that I'm not alone in trying to solve this puzzle. Maybe I should have made this a new topic. I'm going to return those cheap sockets to Lowe's and re-spend that money on a proper, extra-deep socket. By the time I'm done, I'll have a nice set of special tools available for loan to members as needed. Andy York has asked me to keep his spare transmission hub wrench here in CA for that purpose (balance of transmission-tools headed back to him now). West-coast loaner kit to include: Clutch alignment tool, starter ring locking tool, clutch hub wrench and special socket, and soon, a deep impact socket for the current challenge. Back to psychology... on one hand, we have self-restraint to stop us from getting into problematic situations, and on the other we have perseverance to get us out. Now it's me vs. machine and I will not be beaten by a lump of metal. I'm going to hear the cool noise from the chain tensioner that Chuck promised.

Thanks for updating. I hope you get it sorted out.

I got motivated and zipped out to Lowe's to buy a set of those plumber sockets. The size was not exactly right, but I tried anyway - and just ended up deforming the tool without moving the nut. I guess this is going to take a few trips to tool stores. Sort of surprised that Moto Guzzi missed the opportunity to make this a "special tool." At least I now have tools to remove tub and shower valves - a job I have always paid someone else to do. edit: I found a 32mm socket with over 100mm of clearance. Part number GP 2032XMD http://www.gpsocket.com/products/product.phtml/2032XMD/ Hopefully that will be here when I get home from my next trip.

That's called "restraint" now. Congratulations on your maturity and judgment. I can't find a torque spec for that nut, but it's quite thin, so it can't be designed to take much - and it's held in place by the collar - then the nut on the alternator squeezes it all together with 80Nm.