Scud

The frame on my 2003 has the unused holes. It also has the unused studs where the fuel filter is mounted on the earlier models. Those studs would make an easy ground point. In fact, I was wondering if it would be better to ground the battery to the steel frame at that point, rather than to the aluminum transmission case.

I can confirm that the hose clamps on my BMW K75s are much nicer than ones "you get at the zone." The bands have threads pressed into them - not cut. You can find them if you look - ABA makes them, and probably the AN brand that Chuck mentioned does too.

This topic comes up quite a bit in other threads and I just ran a new ground wire - so here it is. I sanded the paint off the frame behind the nut that secures the fuel-pump bolt (which passes through frame on 2002 and earlier, external pump, models). From there, I used a 12-gauge wire with crimp connectors and heat shrink to follow the original ground wire. This more than doubles the ground connection - and it's shorter and not mixed in with the rest of the harness. The original ground wire had gotten hot a few times (note blackening at the connector). This bike only has about 12,000 miles on it, but that type of heat is a disaster (fire or electrical failure) waiting to happen. Obviously, you don't need to remove the engine and subframe to do this (I've got other "stuff" going on). But seeing it in this condition made me wonder if Moto Guzzi relied on the grounding between the case of the regulator and the front sub-frame, which is steel. If the regulator is well-connected to the subframe, it would then be connected to the spine frame at four points (one of which is the round bare metal area in my photo). But these areas get corroded. I sanded them and will apply DC-4 electrical grease on assembly - so there is a third ground connection.

Good idea. There was a guy looking for advice recently about a touring rig - but didn't want a Norge. This might be what he wants. ...and Chamberlin - go ride those things. Isn't it peak riding season in Southern Arizona right now?

To remove, just cut the raised section with a dremel cut-off wheel - then it will release. That looks like a low-pressure, oil breather line. So any clamp should do.

I second that. Check that battery is fully charged, replace all 5 relays with OMRON, recite Guzzi incantation, and start. I may have parts if needed (PM sent).

MG Cycle has clutch plates for the RAM units. They have a solid disk and a three-prong plate. My new one came with a 3-prong. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=4732 http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=3117

Dual plate refers to the standard clutch on most V11s - and most Guzzis in general. The direct replacement RAM for 6-speed transmission is no longer available. However, the RAM for 5-speed is supposedly compatible.

Here's the MRA on my LeMans. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19319&p=214541 It's better body protection than stock, but more wind noise. I am 6' 0". I find it easier to tuck under, but again, a bit noisier when sitting upright. You should also consider the laminar lip - a windshield addition, not a replacement.

1 front disc? So you can reach the spokes to clean them for hours... As for the two links I posted. I prefer the stock V11 over the customized one, so I agree that it's excellent work, but I don't find the end result more appealing. On the other hand, I really like the cafe Centauro. It's tasteful and classic while keeping the modern components. I thought the gold wheels (same gold as the Brembo components) was brilliant. Have a beer and take another look at the Centauro (which IMO was not that attractive to start with). Do we have some other woodworkers on the forum? Somebody want to start a new thread? It's been a long time since I built any furniture, but I've done some stuff around the house within the last few years - entertainment center, wood staircase, etc. I'm no professional, but I'd be willing to take a few pics.

OEM Part Name: Front Mudguard for Ohlins forks Moto Guzzi Part Number: 01434385 Replacement Part Differences from OEM: a bit shorter in back (possibly more road spray), more protection of fork sliders up front. Can be installed/removed with front wheel on bike (removal of OEM fender requires wheel removal) Other Compatible Vehicles: 1998-2003 Aprilia RSV Mille, 2002-2005 Aprilia Tuono Other Comments: excellent quality carbon fiber Website link for source: found on eBay from a seller in Hong Kong

Oh - I thought that was your plan and that you were in need of clutch and possibly flywheel replacement. But if it's not in need of work, don't do it. Riding is way better than wrenching. I hope my Scura will go for 100,000 after all the "refreshing" I'm doing now. Cosmetic stuff is great fun when it can be done without time pressure.

Looking good. I like how you painted the background of the emblem; I think that's better than solid red. And wow, what a huge difference in color between your two photos. If you put this much thought and effort into every bit of your 100,000 mile refresh, we're gonna have a lot to talk about...

This says V11 Custom Creation, but it's got carbs... https://rocket-garage.blogspot.com/2016/12/v11-customcreations.html And a custom Centauro... https://rocket-garage.blogspot.com/2016/12/centauro-rodsmith-motorcycles.html

Anything for our new fellow scuristi. And doesn't it seem like the cover over the rear brake master cylinder should be black?

You can download the Scura script from the fileshare section. Then you could have it output in any color you want. Maybe you could match the color of the logo on the tank?

Welcome. It looks good with the full gloss-black repaint and the gold tank logo. Is this your first Moto Guzzi?

Thanks guys. I backed the nut off a bit as you described. Somehow having my V11 a bit looser than my BMW - and adjusted by feel - seems appropriate.

Jester - your talking about a pointy-lid, right? Along those lines, you can also use a top from a water bottle - the kind that seals when you push it back down. Carry that under your seat. Then you can put that on any oil bottle, tip it upside down, open the valve, and squirt it into the crankcase. As for oil on the road, try to get as close to what you are running as possible, but... If the bike is low any oil will do till the next change. You can even mix organic and synthetic. You can buy synthetic blended oils - so I don't know why people worry about mixing them.

I don't think you're going to find that.. it's pretty much a "feel" thing. Uhhh, "Vee Vill Do it By Zee Book!!" Just sayin.. That, right there, is a perfect example of the difference between my K75 and my V11. But I sure like having the detailed BMW Clymer manual for things that I don't do frequently. So... the feel of it... It feels ok to me, but it feels like when the steering damper is turned up and the front end is in the air. However, there's no bars, forks, wheel, etc. on right now. I think (hope) that with all the extra weight and leverage that small resistance will be overcome. I have under-torqued bearings before and it's not good.

Having read on multiple occasions that V11s tended to come from the factory with very little grease, I was disappointed, but not surprised to find the steering bearings in this sparsely-greased condition. In fact, I recently heard a little squeaking from the steering head. There's a lot of grease in there now. But I can't find a torque-spec for the nut on the spindle that puts pressure on the bearings. Coincidentally I recently snugged up the steering bearings in my BMW, and it uses exactly the same 32mm nut. The BMW manual specifies 45nm (33lb/ft). I used that on the V11 and the lower triple-clamp moves smoothly, but with some resistance. Just looking for a little confirmation or further advice before I assemble stuff on top of this. On another matter - we had some discussion a while back about whether an orange speedo needle and a faded tach needle suggest that a speedometer/odometer has been replaced (and therefore the bike might have more miles on it than indicated). You can see that my tach needle faded much faster - and I can confirm that these gauges have been on this bike since new.

3D Printing: yeah, this is going to be a huge change. Imagine just have a stock of raw materials and a printer... can't find little bushing? print one. Want some headguards with a different logo? Print them... share your files with your friends - or print a bunch of badges for alternator covers and sell 'em to your friends. I just read a science fiction novel, Aurora, by Kim Stanley Robinson. It was about interstellar travel, requiring multiple generations to reach other star systems. It was a fairly technical/psychological book (not a shoot-em-up). 3D printing featured prominently in their closed-system. They just needed to make sure they had enough of every element - then they could print anything they wanted. They just could not manufacture elements (hydrogen, beryllium, gold, carbon, titanium, etc. So much science fiction I read as a kid is reality today. This book really opened my eyes to how essential this 3D printing technology could become. Docc, the anticipation builds... let's see that puppy on the bike. "Move that Bus" was the chant before the big reveal in a home makeover show. They made the family stand where a bus blocked their view - then moved the bus to reveal their new home.

One reason this whole flywheel issue is so anxiety-inducing is that there are no symptoms. They either fail - or are discovered to be cracking when removed - or are discovered to not have any problem when removed - or.... and here's the anxiety... they are still in the bikes and the owners have no idea what condition their flywheels are in. For the symptoms you describe, first make sure your linkage is free and well-adjusted. Also make sure you have fresh and adequate transmission oil. Then try following the steps in the shift improvement thread: replace all the springs in the pre-selector and polish the friction surfaces. As for the original flywheel - you just have to decide how long you are willing to let the dice keep rolling. I opted to take mine out at 12,000 miles and it showed no signs of damage.

Funny Docc. For context - Footgoose said Scura were very common, like Centipedes - just turn over a rock and they go scurrying. (so I put Scura in the definition of centipede.) Anyways - the black BMW sold today. The blue one now has a much better suspension. I drank those beverages ...and now I have room in the garage and a little play money so I can get the Scura's Ohlins damper and forks serviced.