Scud

This thread shows how to add the longer bolt and safety pin to a 2002 an earlier brake caliper carrier: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19655&do=findComment&comment=214039

Thanks guys. I searched and found a recent thread where somebody had this problem (and how I got the idea to do this little upgrade). It includes a picture midway through the thread of what can happen if the bolts goes AWOL. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19107

I keep thinking I should take a course like that - and do a track day. There's always room to improve. Thanks for the report. The instructors were thinking: "Finally, somebody shows up on a proper motorbike."

Welcome! Great looking bike. Some will say "scuzzy", others will say "scootsie" -- keep 'em guessing.

I fault the cheap Harbor Freight tool for the bend, and do not credit my herculean strength. I froze the swingarm bearings (to shrink them) and set the swingarm in the sun to heat it up a bit (probably not hot enough to expand it, but that was my theory). I also used some very fine sandpaper to smooth out the bores where the bearings needed to go - I could feel a few small rough spots, which I assume were due to friction on removal and/or sandblasting. Then I used one of the old bearings as a bearing-driver to hammer the bearings in. You have to keep looking to make sure the bearings are going in straight - and adjust the hammer-strikes to level them out if they start to tilt. And have a soft surface underneath - like a block of wood covered with a towel - so you don't mess up your fresh powdercoat. Just as I got the first bearing started, a neighbor dropped by, wanted to chat. I said - frozen bearing, hot swingarm, please wait. Once that bearing starts to heat up, it will expand - so drive it in briskly.

I hope it involved highway 243.

Rue rings are cool - never saw those before. I just used the OEM clip (it was less than $1.00 and readily available). As for the need for this, I think it's sort of a belts-and-braces approach. It seems that if you're confident that you will tighten the bolt correctly, then you don't need to do this. For me, a little extra security is just peace of mind and cheap insurance (aka belts and braces).

The rear brake caliper and carrier can spin around the axle if the anchor-screw loosens and falls out. I've seen a few posts about this - and the unpleasant collateral damage it causes. Starting with 2003 models, Moto Guzzi supplied a different anchor-screw that goes all the way through the caliper carrier and uses a clip for extra security. Here's how to do this easy, preventative upgrade. What you need: Your favorite hammer A center-punch. Ideally it should fit the unthreaded portion of the hole in the swingarm. "Special Screw" MG part number 01638630 "Security Pin" MG part number 02466900 Drill. Make the hole a little bigger than the pin - it doesn't need to fit snugly. While I happened to have everything on the bench, this could easily be done with the swingarm still on the bike. Step 1 - get your stuff together Step 2 - mark the location for the hole Step 3 - Done

Guzzimoto plugged one of the holes. Here's some discussion of it. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17740&hl=%2Bmarzocchi+%2Bplug+%2Bhole&do=findComment&comment=188893 I keep thinking that I will try to do this too - but if you do, please post pictures so I can copy.

Hoarder. Takes one to know one.

I have not had this problem yet on my Guzzis, but that's sounds like what I do on my BMW K75s - works in seconds. You just have to study how the lines go - tilt the bars (or the whole bike) till there is no peak in the lines where air can get trapped (or detach it if needed like Phil says). It's much easier to get air to bubble up back into the master than to force it down through the calipers. When no more air returns to the reservoir, you're done. That said - speed bleeders are also good at pushing air out. You can just keep squeezing the lever without tightening and loosening the nipple - you keep the fluid moving faster than the bubbles can rise.

Take a look at the spring-clamp and nut that the rear tank bolt goes into. Have you slid it all the way back? You could loosen your subframe and see if there is any play in it - if so, you might be able to nudge it back a couple millimeters - which will move the nut for the tank back. You might also be able to grind a little material out of the frame slot that the bolt passes through to allow the nut to sit further back. Or you could invite 5 guys over to do a compression fitting.

I would think that the replacement True Roller bearing would be smoother and probably less prone to wear? I think the shift action was smoother with the bearing. But I also installed a new spring on that arm at the same time, which could have helped. Oh - and I have road-tested it, but just a short distance.

Thanks for the encouraging comments. Re roller bearing: Yes, it seems that it would be an upgrade over the solid disc (mine was clearly worn); shifting does seem smoother while on the bench. The durability test has just commenced. I think this thread might work best if conversation is kept to a minimum and if lots of us post about proven compatible parts - things we have actually done (no speculation). If we want to discuss a part, we could always start a new thread and link to it from here. I suppose we could also link to existing threads where a compatible part is well documented (that's how I found the swingarm bearings - so I went back and edited my post to put the link in).

Billy Bobs had the twin plate clutch. Maybe it was 107500 miles? ...or the speedometer/odometer cable was broken for a long time. A clutch and brake pads at 7500 miles makes me think it is either wrong (potentially a lie by current or previous owner) or a sign of abuse (like drag racing).

My original tach and speedo needles faded at different rates. But if it looks like it has more than 7500 miles on it, then it probably does. Keep looking, these bikes are worth it.

I've thought a little about trying to do it myself, but the garage is already pretty crowded and the shop I use is very reasonable - and lots of color to choose from... If I had a few airplane hangers on my property it would be a different story. Both V11 are currently functional. The swingarm in the picture was originally on the LeMans (it currently is using the swingarm from the parts bike). The lower subframe was on the parts bike. I'll probably put them on the Scura, cuz she'll be apart soon for the clutch. The little brick's wheels came out nice in a glossy dark metallic grey (Pirellis they're sitting on are for the Scura):

Another successful visit to North County Powdercoating. Also got a bunch stuff done for my K75s project.

I like having a thread checker available. Here, for example is an M12 x 1.75 pitch stud and nut. FWIW - the 12 mm threaded nut takes an 18mm wrench - torque specs are based on thread size. I also have an SAE version of this tool. Someday, I will pay my children to use this tool and sort all my spare nuts and bolts into containers, based on size and pitch.

I'm stoked to see your planes... and your shop... and your enthusiasm... Best line: "It's going to be our flying camper." I installed the arm on my LeMans today. Don't mind the file in the picture. You machined it perfectly, but I had to remove some powder-coat to get it to fit over the bushing. By the way, that's Harper's aftermarket shift lever. The shifts seem to take less effort and feel more precise. Will be getting the other onto the Scura soon.

OEM Part Name: Roller - for gearshift selector lever Moto Guzzi Part Number: 04234700 Replacement Part Brand: Dynaroll Part number 688HZZ A5 Differences from OEM (if any): This is a bearing, the OEM part is a solid piece. Other Comments: Craig found these and sent one to me. I just installed and it works. Thanks. Bearing dimensions: 8mm x 16mm x 5mm Link to further discussion: If you're replacing this part, you probably should also read this thread about shift-improvement: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547&hl=

OEM Part Name: Swingarm Bearings Moto Guzzi Part Number: 92218418 Replacement Part Brand or Source: SKF Part number or other identifier: 3303 A-2RS1TN9/MT33 Link to further discussion or tips: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18327&page=7

I thought you were retired.

If I had to guess, I'd say they were 8mm or 10mm. The sizes are based on the threads, not the size of wrench or socket required. 50 lb/ft is almost 70 n/m. So yeah, they're "good and tight." In fact, even if they're 10mm they're quite a bit tighter the 45-50 n/m specified. But on to the fun stuff - how's the new spring treating you?

On the topic of "Spine Frames don't crash well" I sent the transmission off to Bjorn, without cleaning it. The bad news: He and his mechanic discovered that one of the castings had cracked. Apparently some force of the impact transferred through the spine to the transmission mount, where the case cracked. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=1725 The good news: We were able to reconcile it and he was able to assemble one good transmission from his failed unit (bearing) and the one from this bike. This is partly a heads-up. Look carefully if you are thinking of buying anything from a crashed bike. Now I need to inspect the engine block castings very closely...